2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport, 5.9l

I was speaking with someone about the Dodge automatic transmission problems. He said the transmissions are electronic and that the electronics can fail at any time, rendering the transmission non functional.

First question: If the transmission fails due to an electronics issue, can it be diagnosed and the electronic issues repaired while in the vehicle, or does it need to be totally rebuilt/replaced?

Second question: I bought the truck several months ago. The previous owner is deceased, so no history available. The truck has 172k miles and currently runs and shifts fine. I have often heard that changing transmission fluid after 100k miles, when it has never been changed before, can cause problems. Should I have the transmission serviced and replace fluid and filter since I don't know anything about previous maintenance, or would I just be poking the bear and setting myself up for problems?

 

If the electronics fail, a code is typically relayed to the PCM regarding the issue so that it can be addressed. You can read those codes with an OBDII code reader. In most cases, the electronic component can be replaced without removing the transmission from the truck.

Pull your transmission dipstick and smell the fluid. Does it smell burnt at all? What's the condition of the transmission fluid - is it still bright red?

BTW, if your transmission return line check valve hasn't been removed, I would certainly take care of that potential issue, as they are famous for clogging and causing the transmission to overheat. You can read about the removal process here - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...46rh-46re.html

 

Changing the fluid on a high mileage trans is ok. Doing a FLUSH on a high mileage trans, that hasn't been cared for, pretty much assures you will be doing a rebuild soon.

 

Is this valve available to be replaced? Is there an aftermarket alternative that solves the issue? Why would you remove it instead of replacing it?

With the valve removed, can the truck warm up in Park, and then you just put it in neutral for 15 seconds before putting it in gear?

 

The valve needs to be removed completely. They like to clog, and smoke your trans. (overheat.) Still need to check fluid level in neutral though.

 

When I removed my check valve, I cut the check valve out of the existing line and fabricated a brass union with two 5/16" barbed ends (picked up at Lowes), inserted it into the return transmission line along with worm clamps on each end. Tightened up the clamps and never looked back.