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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
10-While vacationing in western colorado, I noticed what appeared to be transmission fluid on the air filter intake hose, puddled on the lower radiator fan shroud and large spots on the ground.
11-Scott's diagnosed the need to replace the transmission lines and the soaked belt (I let them know that all had been replaced just a year earlier) and ordered OEM from Salt Lake City.
13-picked up truck and continued on my trip the next morning.
16-I checked under the hood and found the same leak and I also experienced a couple of long shifts.
17-I brought it into the Grand Junction Scott's and they said there was a leak where a line connected to the radiator (I saw no fluid in that area) and also added a pint.
18-While on East on I-70, the rpm's were up but the truck was loosing speed while driving up the slight incline near the West Rifle exit. I was barely able to make it up the off-ramp, cross I-70 and pull onto the next street at 20mph. Called the Grand Junction (63 miles) Scott's and was told that they would pay if it was due to their neglect. Had it towed to Kens Pit Stop in Rifle (two miles) and they said that the transmission was most likely out. They did not find a replacement so after two nights in a cheap motel, I called Performance Transmission in Grand Junction. Ken's said they would pull the tranny and deliver it there for a rebuild. Enterprise in Glenwood Springs picked me up and I drove their car drove 250 miles home to Fort Collins.
November
1-Drove back to Ken's, was told that it was test driven the day before, started up the truck and heard a rattling sound from near the tranny. They put it on the lift, removed the dust cover and decided that it needed to be pulled. I drove back to F.C. They took it back to Performance, who did not find any issues (other than a stripped starter hole) after inspection.
15-I called Ken's and was told it was re-installed and that the rattling mostly went away after banging on the catalytic convertor and that it was pulled the second time unnecessarily.
16-When I arrived to bring truck home, I was told the truck had been test driven ten miles and was running great. The transmission had trouble up-shifting (without me using the accelerator pedal) while driving east on I-70. The motor then stopped after fifteen miles. The mechanic came out and banged on the catalytic convertor and it started (he also added a pint). Three shops in Glenwood Springs did not have a replacement cat. While continuing east, when downshifting, the RPM's would race up to 3300 and stay there until I adjusted the accelerator pedal multiple times. It would occasionally also downshift after cresting a hill. I limped home at 7:30.
December
7-Broght it into a local transmission shop. It was diagnosed as not having a second gear.
21-Picked it up and paid for "Labor to adjust throttle valve cable & unstick tv valve.
$5600 total...so far.
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October 2021
-radiator & belt...$245 (my labor)
November 2021
-local shop replaced original transmission lines & fluid...$660 (Scott's charge to replace one year old lines (which continued to leak), fluid and belt...$1512)
Mopar part numbers...
52028769ae...trans cooler pressure line
5202876ae...trans cooler return line
6033879...trans cooler fitting
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Drove truck across town yesterday and it is running great.
I checked for codes and found P0440. Should I deal with the code now?
Found online...
Issue Severity: LOW – Continued driving for a short period of time is okay
Repair Urgency: Get this fixed within the next month to prevent poor emissions and potential emission system damage.
Diagnosis: Code P0440 will not cause any noticeable driving issues but will result in a failed emissions test. However, as with all check engine light diagnostic trouble codes, you should repair it as soon as possible to return the vehicle to normal operation.
Also, should I replace the catalytic convertor now? I have found just the cat (no tailpipes) online from $300-$950.
It's difficult to say not having the truck in front of me, but I'm not convinced a cat is going to fix anything.
I have personally experienced a '98 where the honeycomb broke up enough to turn 90 degrees and completely obstruct the exhaust, but that condition rarely self-corrects, even with "banging" on the cat. It's conceivable it broke up into even smaller pieces and eventually blew out the tailpipe or is living in the muffler, but I'm skeptical based upon your post above.
Basically, I wouldn't focus too much on the cat if the truck is running well. NOW, if you're getting a substantial rattle from the cat that's maybe different and I might diagnose it further.
Terer was a recall on 96's for the cat, But if it was replaced it shouldn't be an issue. If it doesn't rattle nothing to worry about. As for the P0440 check the vac lines for the evap system. Mine cracked the 90*fitting right off the throttle body.
Midas in Glenwood Springs told me that I should definitely not bang on the cat as it may cause the honeycomb to break apart, blow into the muffler and cause big problems. He said to pull over and let it cool for 30-60 minutes. I have also read online that cats are expected to last up to 100000 miles. The transmission shop said the same about expected transmission life.
I will check the vac lines when it warms up outside.
Any thoughts on the transmission lines issue would be appreciated.
My cat died at 80K miles. If I banged on it with my hand, it rattled. When it was pulled, it was clanking around. Some ppl/techs bang on the cat with hammers, a rubber mallet or hammer will crack it. I replaced the cat, muffler, and upgraded the pipes to 3".
P0440:
This is a vacuum issue. If the vacuum lines haven't been replaced, I'd just change the lot of them. Do not use a fuel line between the engine and brake booster.
This is a list of things to check
1) Tighten the fuel cap, clear the code and see if it comes back.
2) Check the evap canister, they sometimes crack and the ecu throws a P0440
3) Check the vent line from the tank to evap canister to see if it holds a vacuum
3a) Easiest Repair: Check the fuel cap. If it leaks or the wrong one, the ecu throws a P0440. Do not use an aftermarket fuel cap!!! Been there
3b) Check the filler hoses for leaks
3c) Check the vent line to the tank for damage/ leak.
3d) There may be a hole leak in the top of the tanks or fuel pump. You'll need to drop the fuel tank to inspect.
4) If replacing the evap vacuum lines, be mindful of the lines from the manifold and throttle body, specifically do not to break the check valves and orifice/reducers. Don't try to pull them apart, cut the vacuum line with a knife/scissors/razor. Old check valves, (inline flying saucer looking things) on the vacuum lines, easily break in half an need to be replace. Mopar doesn't make them any longer. The orifice/reducers look like inline plastic tubes, they snap in half. Mopar doesn't make them any longer either.
5) Check the input air filter to the EGR solenoid. If it's clogged, the vacuum pressures are off and the solenoid wont work.
6) Replace the EGR vacuum lines. I used silicone lines
Also, I replaced my pcv valve, pvc vacuum line (abt $15), the pvc grommet on the valve cover, air-vent/cruise-control/4wd vacuum lines.
Last edited by Action Potential; Dec 30, 2022 at 02:11 PM.
Checked the code again yesterday and it has changed to...P0441 – Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow which sounds similar/the same as P0440 Evaporative Emission Control – System Malfunction
No check engine light.
The vacuum hoses appear to be intact. I will inspect the rest of the list later this week when the temperature rises.
The shifting issue returned so I took it to a local transmission shop and was told that it had no second gear. I also mentioned that the gear indicator was off. $180 later, they had made an "adjustment" and I was told that the shifter lever was worn (it had no issues before the rebuild in November).
A couple of weeks later, I made a stop and when I started the truck, it would only drive 15 mph and would not rev. I slowly made it home (while driving on the shoulders and waving around traffic) and immediately cut the intake exhaust pipes in front of the cat. It revved...very loudly! After much searching, I purchased a CARB compliant cat at Advanced Auto for $900. It was too short plus I could not find couplings that were not sloppy (I thought they would be tight like copper plumbing couplers). I called a local shop and they said they could install one for $1000. After a loud drive across town, I dropped it off at the shop and they had a new one welded in 20 minutes (shop labor charge...$220). I am thinking that the tranny rebuild was unnecessary (even at 183000 miles) and that it lost power/slowed down to 25 mph on the freeway last October may have been due to a incrementally clogged cat.
Twice, it would not start in parking lots. I found that the neutral safety switch was not engaging without moving the shift lever back and forth. I crawled under (in my driveway) and found the two bolts holding the shift lever bracket to the frame had almost fell out. I tightened them and the gear indicator still had not been remedied. I then noticed what appears to be a plastic bushing nearer the transmission that is not in another bracket hole. I cannot seem to move it into the hole and am not sure if it should be in the hole.
Western Colorodo Saga
