most wide off the shelf rims I'm seeing keep around the same range of around 4.5-5" of backspace as the skinnier rims like I have on there now.

the tire I'm looking at trying @15.3" wide recomends 11-14" wide rims but 12" wide is seems like the seet spot selection wise.

That would put around 3 more inches of rim and tire sticking outside the wheel wells. over the 9" rims and 12.5" wide tires I have on there now.

Here's my question:

Is running a 15.3" wide tire on a 12" and wide rim 4.5" backspace going to be really hard on suspension components in the same way as running something like a 9" rim 4.5" backspace with 12.5" wide tire with a 3" wide wheel spacer????

Both examples put the tire sticking out past the edge of the wheel well about the same distance.

What do you forum gurus say?

 

Any time you move the tread pattern(where the load contacts the ground) out farther than the stock location is when there is more strain on the ball joints. Sort of like when you do push ups with your hands under your chest compared to out wide.

 

Yeah it'll be similar. Plus I hope your steering box and everything else is tight because a 15" wide tire will track poorly and want to follow every imperfection in the road

 

Maybe I didn't explain that right. With these tires and wheels there would still be rubber everywhere the stock tires sit but on along with that there would also be more rubber on the outside of the wheel wellie if there were forces pushing down where the stock rubber is, there would still be rubber in that location to transmit it to the ground.

 

Wider tires/rims will move the primary contact patch outwards in any event, thus introducing some different side loads on the ball joints. How much it moves it, and how much of an issue it is, probably really won't matter that much after considering what the additional weight of the wheel/tire combo is going to do. Given you have a D60 up front, it will probably shorten ball joint life, but, how much? Remains to be seen.

 

She's more weekend warrior than daily driver and the whole suspension is essentially new parts throughout except steering box which seems to be doing ok for the moment.

My main worry is prematurely losing ball joints. Changing those things sucks.

Wheel bearing death is just going to happen no matter what wheels are on there, obviously worse with heavier wisder wheels. Luckily, since swapping to the 2000 front axle, changing wheel bearings isn't nearly so bad. Maybe I'll do a Spinfree kit. The bearings seem better in that setup.

 

The spin-free kits are not inexpensive..... else I would have gone that route a while ago. Theoretically, late 80's early 90's Ford 4x4 also used the D60 as a base, and the parts from those will swap right over. (3/4 ton trucks, at any rate.....) If you can find 'em, much cheaper alternative. If ya can't... the 2000 and up front wheel bearings really aren't that much of an ordeal to change, plus, you have the better brakes.

 

If this is a 60 I wouldn't sweat it. You'll be fine

 

Cool. It is indeed a D60.

And yeah, those Spin-Free kits are nearly $2.5k for my axle. More tempting back when my bearings were harder to swap. Finding the rght Ford parts, used and in serviceable condition seems less likely these days. I seem to recall quite a bit about that subject via search in the Dodgeforum 2nd gen truck archives.

Found some pretty cool wheels. Of course, still havent't asked how much they cost yet so maybe that'll be the show stopper but was thinking maybe some of these in a powder coated gloss black 20X11 with 4.75" backspace with a 15.3" wide tire would go really great with some ultra bling stocker 1995 dodge ram chromie hub caps. Been looking at 38" tall options.

I guess I still like the look of some of those chrome accents Dodge had.

https://detroitsteelwheel.com/d-town-smoothies/

 

I always liked black chrome. But, getting wheels chromed ain't inexpensive.