Today I used Chat GPT to see what it could do. Below is my conversation. I edited and condensed it.

How do I troubleshoot my Gen2 model year 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.9 Magnum gas engine? It was running then stopped running. It will crank but it will not start.

Listen for the fuel pump: When you turn the ignition key to the "on" position (without cranking the engine), you should be able to hear a faint buzzing sound coming from the fuel tank area. If you don't hear anything, it could indicate a faulty fuel pump.

Ignition system: Check the ignition coil, distributor cap, and rotor for any signs of damage or wear.

Crankshaft position sensor: A faulty sensor can prevent the engine from starting.

When trying to pull codes on the OBDII scanner there are no codes present. What could cause my truck to not start but not set any codes?

There are several potential reasons why this might occur:

Mechanical issues: Some mechanical problems, such as a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or ignition system issues, may not always trigger specific codes. These problems can affect engine starting without necessarily setting a DTC.

Sensor failure: It's possible that a sensor essential for starting, such as the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, has failed or is malfunctioning. If these sensors fail abruptly, the ECM may not have a chance to register a fault code before the engine stalls

Wiring or connection issues: Faulty wiring connections or damaged wiring harnesses can disrupt the communication between sensors, actuators, and the ECM. These issues might not trigger a specific code but can still interfere with the starting process.

Intermittent problems: Some issues, such as loose connections or intermittent sensor failures, may occur sporadically and not be present during the diagnostic scan. If the problem does not manifest at the time of the scan, no codes will be stored.

Software or ECM issues: In rare cases, software glitches or ECM malfunctions can prevent codes from being stored or read properly. These situations may require further diagnostic procedures or reprogramming of the ECM.

1. To check the voltage and amp draw of the fuel pump you'll need a multimeter capable of measuring both voltage and current.

Testing the voltage: Locate the wiring harness connector for the fuel pump. Connect the positive (red) probe of your multimeter to the positive wire of the fuel pump connector. Connect the negative (black) probe to a good ground, such as a metal part of the vehicle frame. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position (without starting the engine) to activate the fuel pump. The multimeter should display the voltage reading. Typically, it should be around 12 volts.

Testing the amp draw: With the multimeter still connected to the fuel pump wiring, switch the multimeter to measure amps (usually marked as "A" or "I"). Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the multimeter in series with the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. This will measure the current draw of the fuel pump. Have your helper crank the engine while you observe the multimeter reading. The amp draw will vary depending on the fuel pump's specifications.

2. The fuel pressure range for this vehicle is typically around 49 to 58 psi (pounds per square inch).

3. How do I test the fuel injectors in my truck? Prepare the necessary tools: You will need a fuel pressure gauge, a noid light (or an injector tester) and a multimeter.

Check the fuel pressure: Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail's Schrader valve. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position (without starting the engine) and observe the fuel pressure reading on the gauge.

Perform a noid light test: Disconnect the electrical connector from one of the injectors and plug in the corresponding noid light. Start the engine and observe the noid light. It should blink rhythmically, indicating that the electrical signal is reaching the injector. Repeat this step for each injector.

Measure injector resistance: Using a multimeter, set it to measure resistance (ohms). Disconnect the electrical connector from one of the fuel injectors and touch the multimeter probes to the two terminals on the injector. The multimeter should display a resistance value.

4. To test the ignition system on your truck, you can follow these general steps:

Test for spark: Remove one spark plug wire from a spark plug and insert the spark tester or spare spark plug into the end of the wire. Make sure the metal part of the spark tester or spark plug is grounded to the engine block or a suitable ground point. Have someone crank the engine while you observe for a strong, visible spark at the tester or spark plug.

Test the ignition coil: If you suspect an issue with the ignition coil, you can perform a simple test using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) and disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Place the multimeter probes on the appropriate terminals of the ignition coil, according to the manufacturer's specifications. Compare the resistance reading to the specified range.

The primary resistance of the ignition coil should typically be within the range of 0.3 to 1.0 ohms. However, it's important to note that specific resistance values can vary depending on the exact coil specifications and any potential aftermarket modifications.

The secondary resistance of the ignition coil should typically be within the range of 6,000 to 10,000 ohms.

The secondary resistance is the resistance between the high-voltage output terminal of the ignition coil (where the spark plug wire connects) and the coil's electrical ground. Measuring the secondary resistance can help determine if the coil is functioning properly. If the resistance measurement falls outside the recommended range, it may indicate a faulty coil that requires replacement.

5. To test the voltage output from the ignition coil on your truck, you can follow these steps:

Identify the primary and secondary terminals: The ignition coil has two sets of terminals. The primary terminals are usually labeled "+" and "-", while the secondary terminals are connected to the spark plug wires.

Measure the primary voltage: connect the positive (red) probe to the positive primary terminal of the ignition coil. Connect the negative (black) probe to a good ground, such as the engine block or a suitable ground point. Have someone crank the engine while you observe the multimeter reading. The primary voltage should typically be around 12 volts while the engine is cranking.

Measure the secondary voltage: With the multimeter still set to measure high voltages, disconnect one spark plug wire from the ignition coil. Hold the end of the wire about 1/4 inch away from a good ground (such as the engine block) or use a spark tester tool. Have someone crank the engine while you observe the multimeter reading. The secondary voltage should produce a strong spark at the spark plug wire. Typically, the secondary voltage can range from several thousand to tens of thousands of volts, depending on the ignition system.

The ignition module is integrated into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM is a control unit that manages various engine functions, including ignition timing and fuel injection.

In this vehicle, you won't find a separate ignition module like older distributor-based ignition systems. Instead, the PCM handles ignition control and timing based on input from various sensors.

If you're experiencing ignition-related issues with your truck, it's recommended to focus on testing the ignition coil pack, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and other components associated with the ignition system, as these are more likely to be the source of the problem.

Check the ignition coil pack: Some vehicles have an ignition control module that can fail and cause ignition problems. Consult your vehicle's manual or a repair guide specific to your model to locate the ignition module. Testing procedures can vary depending on the design and type of module, so follow the manufacturer's instructions or seek professional assistance for this step.

6. Here's how you can test the ignition coil pack: Locate the ignition coil pack: The ignition coil pack is usually located on or near the engine. It consists of multiple individual coils that are connected to the spark plugs. Consult the vehicle's manual or a repair guide specific to your model for the exact location.

Check the power supply: Start by checking if the ignition coil pack is receiving power. Set your multimeter to measure DC voltage (V) and connect the positive (red) probe to the positive terminal of the ignition coil pack. Connect the negative (black) probe to a good ground. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position (without starting the engine) and observe the multimeter reading. It should typically show battery voltage (around 12 volts). If there is no voltage or a significantly lower reading, it may indicate a problem with the power supply to the ignition coil pack.

Test for resistance: Set your multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) and disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition coil pack. Measure the resistance between the coil pack's terminals according to the manufacturer's specifications. Compare the reading to the specified range.

Test the control signal: The control signal for the ignition coil pack is typically generated by the powertrain control module (PCM) based on input from various sensors. To test the control signal, you may need specialized equipment, such as an oscilloscope or a diagnostic scan tool, to monitor the signals while the engine is running.

Verify power supply and wiring: Check the power supply to the ignition system, including fuses and relays, to ensure they are functioning properly. Inspect the wiring harness and connectors for any signs of damage or loose connections.

7. To test the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) you can follow these steps:

Prepare for testing: Ensure the vehicle is parked in a well-ventilated area and the engine is off. Open the hood and locate the throttle body. The TPS is typically attached to the throttle body.

Disconnect the electrical connector: Locate the electrical connector on the TPS and disconnect it by pressing down on the tab or lever and pulling it apart. This will allow you to access the terminals for testing.

Set up the multimeter: Set your multimeter to measure DC voltage (V) and connect the positive (red) probe to the signal wire terminal of the TPS. Connect the negative (black) probe to a good ground, such as the battery negative terminal or engine block.

Measure the TPS voltage: Turn the ignition key to the "on" position without starting the engine. With the throttle closed (foot off the accelerator), observe the multimeter reading. The voltage should be around 0.5 volts (this value may vary depending on the specific vehicle). Slowly open the throttle by pressing the accelerator pedal, and observe the voltage reading on the multimeter. The voltage should increase smoothly and consistently as the throttle opens. If the voltage jumps erratically or there are dead spots, it may indicate a faulty TPS. As a general guideline, the maximum voltage on the TPS under full throttle is typically around 4.5 to 5 volts.

Test TPS resistance (optional): If you suspect a problem with the TPS, you can also test its resistance using the multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure resistance (ohms). Connect the positive (red) probe to one of the outer terminals of the TPS and the negative (black) probe to the center terminal. Slowly open and close the throttle while observing the resistance reading. The resistance should change smoothly and consistently without any sudden jumps or fluctuations.

8. To test the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) you can follow these steps:

Disconnect the electrical connector: Locate the electrical connector on the camshaft position sensor and disconnect it by pressing down on the tab or lever and pulling it apart. This will allow you to access the terminals for testing.

Set up the multimeter: Set your multimeter to measure AC voltage (V) and connect the positive (red) probe to one of the sensor terminals. Connect the negative (black) probe to the other terminal.

Crank the engine: Have a helper crank the engine while you monitor the voltage on the multimeter. The voltage reading should fluctuate between 0 and a few volts as the engine cranks. This fluctuation indicates that the camshaft position sensor is detecting the rotation of the camshaft.

Inspect the voltage pattern: As the engine cranks, observe the voltage pattern on the multimeter. It should produce a consistent and smooth AC voltage signal. If the voltage reading remains steady, shows no fluctuations, or produces an irregular pattern, it may indicate a faulty camshaft position sensor.

Check for voltage presence: If there is no voltage detected during cranking, switch the multimeter to measure DC voltage (V) and repeat the previous steps. Some camshaft position sensors produce a DC voltage signal instead of an AC voltage signal.

It's worth noting that testing the camshaft position sensor using a multimeter can provide a basic indication of its functionality. However, for a more comprehensive and accurate diagnosis, it's recommended to use specialized diagnostic equipment, such as an oscilloscope, which can provide a detailed waveform of the sensor's output.

9. To test the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) you can follow these steps:

Disconnect the electrical connector: Locate the electrical connector on the crankshaft position sensor and disconnect it by pressing down on the tab or lever and pulling it apart. This will allow you to access the terminals for testing.

Set up the multimeter: Set your multimeter to measure AC voltage (V) and connect the positive (red) probe to one of the sensor terminals. Connect the negative (black) probe to the other terminal.

Crank the engine: Have a helper crank the engine while you monitor the voltage on the multimeter. The voltage reading should fluctuate between 0 and a few volts as the engine cranks. This fluctuation indicates that the crankshaft position sensor is detecting the rotation of the crankshaft.

Inspect the voltage pattern: As the engine cranks, observe the voltage pattern on the multimeter. It should produce a consistent and smooth AC voltage signal. If the voltage reading remains steady, shows no fluctuations, or produces an irregular pattern, it may indicate a faulty crankshaft position sensor.

Check for voltage presence: If there is no voltage detected during cranking, switch the multimeter to measure DC voltage (V) and repeat the previous steps. Some crankshaft position sensors produce a DC voltage signal instead of an AC voltage signal. If you still don't detect any voltage, it may indicate a problem with the crankshaft position sensor or the wiring.

10. To test the voltage signal to the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay you can follow these steps:

Prepare for testing: Ensure the vehicle is parked in a well-ventilated area and the engine is off. Open the hood and locate the ASD relay, which is typically located in the power distribution center (PDC) or the fuse box. Refer to the vehicle's manual or a repair guide specific to your model for the exact location.

Identify the ASD relay: Locate the ASD relay in the PDC or fuse box. The ASD relay is usually labeled for easy identification. Refer to the labeling or the vehicle's manual to confirm that you have located the correct relay.

Remove the ASD relay: Carefully remove the ASD relay from its socket in the PDC or fuse box. Be sure to note the orientation of the relay and its terminals for reinstallation.

Set up the multimeter: Set your multimeter to measure DC voltage (V). Connect the positive (red) probe to the battery positive terminal or a known good power source. Connect the negative (black) probe to a good ground, such as the battery negative terminal or engine block.

Test the ASD relay socket: Insert the positive (red) probe into the socket terminal that receives power when the ignition key is in the "ON" or "RUN" position. Consult the vehicle's manual or a wiring diagram specific to your model to identify the correct terminal. Keep the negative (black) probe connected to a good ground.

Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without starting the engine. This will activate the electrical system and send power to the ASD relay socket.

Check for voltage: With the ignition key in the "ON" position, check the voltage reading on the multimeter. The voltage should match the battery voltage, typically around 12 volts. If you have a voltage reading, it indicates that the ASD relay is receiving power.

Reinstall the ASD relay: After testing, carefully reinstall the ASD relay into its socket in the PDC or fuse box. Ensure it is properly seated and secured.

It's important to note that testing the voltage signal to the ASD relay can help determine if power is reaching the relay. However, it doesn't provide information about the functionality of the ASD relay itself or other components in the circuit.

11. If there is no power to the ASD relay, it indicates a potential issue with the power supply to the relay. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem:

Check the fuse: Locate the fuse that is responsible for supplying power to the ASD relay. The fuse is typically located in the power distribution center (PDC) or the fuse box. Refer to the vehicle's manual or a wiring diagram specific to your model to identify the correct fuse. Inspect the fuse visually to see if it is blown. If the fuse appears to be blown, replace it with a new one of the same rating. Test for power at the ASD relay again.

Test the relay control circuit: The ASD relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) based on various inputs from sensors. If there is no power to the ASD relay, it's possible that the PCM may not be sending the control signal. To test the relay control circuit, you will need a wiring diagram and a digital multimeter. Follow the wiring diagram to locate the appropriate wire that supplies the control signal to the ASD relay. Disconnect the electrical connector from the PCM and measure the voltage on the control wire using the multimeter while someone turns the ignition key to the "ON" position. If there is no voltage or an inconsistent voltage reading, it indicates a problem with the PCM or the wiring between the PCM and the relay. In this case, it's best to consult a professional technician or a qualified mechanic for further diagnosis.

Check the PCM: If the previous steps haven't resolved the issue, it's possible that the PCM itself is faulty and not providing the control signal to the ASD relay.

12. The wire that supplies the control signal to the ASD relay is typically the Dark Blue/Yellow (DB/YL) wire. This wire comes from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and provides the control signal to the ASD relay to activate it.

By referring to the wiring diagram and locating the Dark Blue/Yellow (DB/YL) wire, you can test for voltage using a digital multimeter as mentioned earlier.

13. To test the signal from the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to the ASD relay follow these steps:

Identify the ASD relay control wire: Consult a wiring diagram specific to your vehicle's make, model, and engine configuration to identify the wire that carries the control signal from the ECU to the ASD relay. The wire color and location may vary, so referring to a wiring diagram is crucial.

Disconnect the ECU connector: Locate the connector that corresponds to the ASD relay control wire and carefully disconnect it. You may need to use a small screwdriver or a connector release tool to release the connector's locking mechanism.

Set up a test light or multimeter: Depending on your preference and the available tools, you can use either a 12V test light or a digital multimeter to test the signal. If using a test light, connect the clip end to a good ground, and touch the probe end to the ASD relay control wire terminal in the disconnected ECU connector. If using a multimeter, set it to measure DC voltage and connect the positive (red) probe to the ASD relay control wire terminal and the negative (black) probe to a good ground.

Turn the ignition to the "ON" position: With the test light or multimeter in place, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without starting the engine. This will activate the electrical system, including the ECU.

Observe the test light or multimeter reading: If using a test light, it should illuminate, indicating that the ECU is sending a control signal to the ASD relay. If using a multimeter, you should see a voltage reading close to the battery voltage (around 12 volts). This confirms that the ECU is providing the necessary signal.

If the test llght does not illuminate or the multimeter does not show any voltage, it suggests a problem with the ECU or the wiring between the ECU and the ASD relay.

14. The ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay control signal from the ECU is typically connected to pin number 51 on the ECU connector. Pin 51 is often labeled as "ASD control" or "ASD relay control" in the wiring diagrams.

 

Very nice. Sounds like it was reading straight out of the service manual...

 

I just really hope we keep our ability to discern BS from common sense truth. Given how people seemingly can no longer read maps or even read directions and instead do anything navigation tells them, I'm not optimistic.

When Skynet takes over it will tell the person to just walk off a cliff to test their throttle position sensor, and people will do it.

See also: The Office when Michael drives into a lake because navigation said so.

 

I have no idea what that is. Assume it's a internet/AI help chat app or something. I was watching a show about AI and google wants to use it. They asked it a question about an animal or insect(can't remember) and it gave a response. But since it scoures the internet and that is what it braces it's answer from the response it gave was WRONG! Some of the factory service manuals i refer to at work are blatantly wrong. Is some app, Google or AI going to know the difference?

 

AI is here to stay. It's been around since at least the 1980s and has been evolving to its current state. It will continue to evolve and get better and better over time. Will it ever be perfect? Highly doubtful, however, it will be good enough for many businesses to leverage. Jobs will be destroyed by it and many will be created by it.

ChatGPT can be accessed here to check it out - https://openai.com/blog/chatgpt

 

Hi Moparite, yes, it's an AI conversation type app. There are five competitors, Open AI (Chat GPT), Google (Bard), Microsoft (Turing NLG), IBM (Watson), and Amazon (Alexa). I used Chat GPT in this experiment.

AI is going to change many things, some great, some not so much. In my above post, I had to edit a lot out of the post because only 25,000 characters are allowed per post. I could have made it two post but that was not really needed to show what it could do. It was a natural conversation just like you would have with a person with a lot of un-needed talking involved so I cut all that out. I also cut out the obvious wrong responses, I think it confused my 2500 5.9 GAS with the 2500 5.9 DIESEL a few times. You have to be very specific and repetitive when asking a question. For instance, "Chat, how do I fix my Dodge truck, it won't start?" vs. "Chat, how do I troubleshoot my model year 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 5.9 liter Magnum gas engine? The vehicle stopped running while idling and will not re-start. The problem started after replacing the OEM fuel pump with an aftermarket fuel pump. The engine and starter turn over but it will not fire?". The first one will give all kinds of general answers and the second one will give specific answers pertaining to my specific truck.

It also kept saying that I should bring my vehicle to a certified mechanic or dealership at the end of each response. I think it would be a handy tool to use for the general hobbyist or experienced home mechanic. You have to know enough to recognize the WRONG answers but overall, I think it was pretty good.
Any how, I thought it was interesting and wanted to share.

 

Here is an exact cut/paste from a follow up question:

"Thank you, the fuel pump is working and the fuel pressure is 50 psi. The vehicle started and was idling and than it stopped running. What would be my first step in making sure the injectors are still firing.
ChatGPT
If you want to verify if the fuel injectors are firing properly, you can perform a simple test using a noid light. Here's how you can proceed:
Locate the fuel injector harness: The fuel injectors are connected to a wiring harness. Locate this harness, which should be near the fuel rail or intake manifold.

Disconnect the fuel injector connector: Each fuel injector will have an electrical connector. Carefully disconnect one of the connectors from its respective fuel injector.

Connect the noid light: Take a noid light tool compatible with your vehicle's injector connectors and plug it into the disconnected fuel injector connector. The noid light is a specialized tool that simulates the electrical signal sent to the fuel injectors.

Crank the engine: With the noid light connected, have someone crank the engine while you observe the light. The noid light should blink or illuminate steadily if the injector is receiving the proper electrical signal and firing correctly.

Repeat for each injector: Repeat steps 2-4 for each fuel injector on your engine. This will allow you to check the firing of all the injectors.

If the noid light doesn't illuminate or blink for any of the injectors, it may indicate a problem with the injector circuit, such as a faulty injector driver or a wiring issue. In such cases, it's recommended to consult a professional mechanic or an automotive expert to diagnose and repair the specific issue.

Please note that the above steps are general guidelines, and it's always important to refer to the specific instructions in your vehicle's manual or consult a qualified mechanic for accurate diagnosis and troubleshooting."

I used https://chat.openai.com. I used their new GPT4. You have to make a free profile before you can use it. I used an anonymous e-mail account I made years and years ago using an open terminal at the library... because I don't trust that $hit... and then created the new profile using the that e-mail and connected through my VPN. OK, am I paranoid... maybe just a little, lol. But when the AI take over the world... don't blame me! Just joking... maybe.

 

Interesting to see someone else with this thought process. I work with AI frequently and run my own servers at home for experimentation, and lately I've been using it to enhance a lot of my technical work. I do a lot of DIY stuff from mechanical to programming and everything in between. Most recently I have been feeding chatGPT excerpts from my dodge FSMs and using it to design custom mods

The most interesting to date, is figuring out how to interface with the later year "premium" CTM with my own microcontroller. The end result is full control over most of the bus connected aux systems. This allows me to grab all kinds of I/O like reverse/ brake/turn signals etc, from the truck's stock computers and also send messages to and from my own microcontroller.

The reason behind doing this is now I can program a multitude of features, like automatic Headlights when the wipers are on, power passenger mirror that tilts down when you shift to reverse for parallel parking (something I loved about my old cadillac deville), programmable lighting effects with stock lights.. and all kinds of other unnecessary stuff.

The coolest project that will utilize this so far is a fully electronic 4x4 control system to replace the stupid vacuum lines I have been working on.

I just like to make cool things lol, and I've got some good tricks for getting chatGPT to "study" a topic or provided material to prepare it for very specific topic questions. I've also learned to make chatGPT create "a memory" within a conversation and something that resembles a versioning system when developing projects to help avoid the mix ups and the need for redundant, overly specific questions. This can really streamline a lengthy development session with chatGPT!

AI is the future, even for 25+ year old trucks!

 

Not for me it's not! AI is only as good as the info it gets. So if the info is wrong so is AI. Key word is "artificial" meaning not real. Have you heard the term "fake news"? AI is getting info from Twitter and FB.
If you have the factory manual no need for some "APP".

 

What part do you hate about it the most? This "APP" has developed cures for cancer in 30 days that scientists haven't in years....

Https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.fir...17912.html/amp

revolutionized material sciences (which is how better truck-makin materials are developed)

https://www.nature.com/articles/s41524-022-00765-z

People used to think this way about the internet as well. Yet here we are. I don't mean to be rude but it seems to me you have a long way to come in understanding the technology being discussed here, and I highly recommend you do some reading and you may realize how incredible this technology can be in the right applications.

if your brain is capable of thinking about millions of different data points at any given moment, then I concede. But for the rest of us non super humans, a system like what openAI has designed is an incredibly powerful resource.

For example, if your factory service manual tells you what microcontroller chip is inside the CTM, and what types of communications protocols that can accept, then you must have a manual we dont.... mine only show the pinouts and baud rate for default communication. This information alone would never have allowed me to achieve what I have.

Do you know how a microcontroller like the ESP-32 works? Its an amazing little chip that allows all kinds of I/O processing and built in Bluetooth connectivity. I describe to ChatGPT the pinouts of the dodge CTM, protocols, and my basic esp-32 program, and chatgpt will literally break down EVERY wire connection and any modifications to my written program to "magically" enable me to build my own devices to communicate with my truck. Again. If your FSM can do this, then by all means, ignore this little "APP".

and in reference to your "fake news" comment....if anyone relies on AI for "news", then I think that kind of speaks for itself lol.

Maybe my response to this thread should have been a PM to the OP instead, I wasn't aware that groundbreaking technological advancements would generate such negative feedback...