Need Advice for '96 1500 5.9
#1
Need Advice for '96 1500 5.9
I got everything I need to get it back running in top shape again; new wiring harness, dist cap, rotor, wires, injectors are good to go. However, I am stumped on the replacement for the fuel injector rail connecting hose. I just did it, and I feel confident, but after last time, and the consequences of not having it on properly or too big a hose, I am having doubts about my own ability to fix a problem permanently. I do not want to be paranoid every time I go on the road, that my fuel hose will come loose and spray under the hood and start a fire again, as it has caused a lot of headaches.
My previous fix for the hose which was chewed by a mouse was- 5/16" fuel line, and metal hose clamps. This came off after around 3 months of driving and several thousand miles, I'm assuming that the hose clamp slowly backed out because of vibration and allowed the hose to disconnect from the fuel pressure (maybe 5/16" was a bit too large)
What I have done now is downsized to 1/4" fuel line, which still fits onto the fuel rail (but tighter), used hose clamps, zip ties, and JB welded where the hose meets the rail.
Has anyone else had to replace their injector rail connecting hose? If so, what did you do to replace it? I don't want to make another costly mistake, thanks
My previous fix for the hose which was chewed by a mouse was- 5/16" fuel line, and metal hose clamps. This came off after around 3 months of driving and several thousand miles, I'm assuming that the hose clamp slowly backed out because of vibration and allowed the hose to disconnect from the fuel pressure (maybe 5/16" was a bit too large)
What I have done now is downsized to 1/4" fuel line, which still fits onto the fuel rail (but tighter), used hose clamps, zip ties, and JB welded where the hose meets the rail.
Has anyone else had to replace their injector rail connecting hose? If so, what did you do to replace it? I don't want to make another costly mistake, thanks
#2
I've had to perform this repair on my truck due to the crossover line being dry-rotten from age. No zip ties or JB Weld is necessary at all. The Ideal style worm hose clamps you're using tend to eat into the fuel line and don't hold very well. Be sure to use 5/16" fuel injection fuel hose, as its rated for the higher fuel injection pressures. It's also a thicker fuel hose than the standard fuel hose. In addition, you will need to use 5/16" fuel injection clamps on each end. Fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps are readily available at most local auto parts stores. Usually, the fuel injection fuel hose is behind the counter and cut to length. A sample photo of a fuel injection hose clamp is shown below.
Last edited by AtomicDog; 09-30-2023 at 12:20 AM.
#4
I've had to perform this repair on my truck due to the crossover line being dry-rotten from age. No zip ties or JB Weld is necessary at all. The Ideal style worm hose clamps you're using tend to eat into the fuel line and don't hold very well. Be sure to use 5/16" fuel injection fuel hose, as its rated for the higher fuel injection pressures. It's also a thicker fuel hose than the standard fuel hose. In addition, you will need to use 5/16" fuel injection clamps on each end. Fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps are readily available at most local auto parts stores. Usually, the fuel injection fuel hose is behind the counter and cut to length. A sample photo of a fuel injection hose clamp is shown below.
#5
#6
The factory used a heat sensitive tubing(hard nylon). I replaced a fuel line(gas tank to body) with this stuff i got at the local parts store. You are supposed to put it in hot water(as per the instructions) and it expands so you can put it on. After it cools it shrinks and seals. Problem is it doesn't work. There is probably is a better product that works like it is supposed to but the crap i got didn't and replaced it with FI hose. I see that Dorman has a hard nylon tubing, This is probably something like what factory used.