I just tried the old computer to see if it was something in that and got the same thing 3.89A draw one thing I do notices is the meter takes about 30 seconds to get down to a .07 amp draw after I unplug something. I don't know much about electrical I don't know if that's normal or not.

 

What symptom other than the perceived battery draw are you experiencing? Does the battery die prematurely after a day or so due to this parasitic draw? I ask, as I'm wondering about the accuracy of that meter and what other symptoms may have led you to this point?

 

So this all started on the way home from a Sunday drive in the mountains. I put it in 4 low a couple time just because it was bumpy but nothing crazy. On the highway home it spit and sputtered a couple time. Which made me think fuel pump/fuel filter. I drove it to work and it died running rough and wouldn't start. I towed it home on a trailer and put a charger on the battery because I killed it using the starter to get off the road. I put it back in and drove about 20 miles no problem parked it and the next morning it was dead. I charged it and brought it down to the local shop and tested it in the truck it said it was bad then tested it out of the truck and it was good. Drove it again like 15 miles with one little sputter. I then fixed some rough battery cables. It was then dead again the next morning. Which lead me to believe the battery was dying and messing with the computer. I haven't brought the alternator in to be checked but I did unplug it and still had a draw. That's how I got to where I am now. I just bought that meter at harbor freight so I hope it's not bad lol

 

I had a similar issue with my wife's car recently. Replaced both the battery and alternator with new units. Wife drove the car for two days and the car died again. I decided to take the car to a shop that specializes in that type of car since it was only 10 years old, had right at 100,000 miles on it, it need the trans (CVT) fluid/filter changed and I was busy doing front end repairs on another car. They stated that the alternator I installed was bad and they needed to install a Denso alternator on it, as those tended to hold up better than any others they have used on that car. I returned the alternator to the place I purchased it and got a refund. The shop installed the new Denso alternator and off I went hoping the alternator fixes the issue. Wife drove the car another couple of days and it died again on the road. Had to have it towed back to the shop that worked on it. Found out that my brand new battery had a bad cell in it. Since the battery had a 3 year replacement warranty on it, I exchanged the battery with another new one and the shop installed it. Took the car back hoping all was well again. Wife drove the car back home and I checked it with my voltmeter to ensure it was charging. Found that the alternator wasn't providing a decent charge to the battery again. Took the car back to the shop and told them to keep it a while and thoroughly check the car's charging issue out, since both my wife and I had lost confidence in driving the car without issue. The shop drove the car off and on for 2 days. They finally noticed the same issue I encountered. They replaced the Denso alternator with another Denso unit, in addition to disabling the adaptive charging feature (which is controlled by the PCM) by pulling a wire out of the wiring harness near the battery. The shop also called Denso and they found that Denso was experiencing a higher than normal defect rate for that particular alternator for our application (Nissan Altima). They drove the car some more after the repairs and things seemed to be fine from their perspective. We got the car back and have had no further issues.

For me, the moral to this story is that sometimes even the best laid plans can go awry and brand new parts can indeed be defective...

 

That's a fairly large draw, I think it should be fairly easy to find. What happens when you just remove one fuse/relay? You may see some variation in the draw but something is pulling most of it. According to this(I don't have a list for 2001) 12 and 13 are...

12 10 Power Mirror Switch, Dome Lamp, Cargo Lamp, Data Link Connector, Radio, Glove Box Lamp and Switch, Overhead Console, Underhood Lamp, Left Visor/Vanity Lamp, Right Visor/Vanity Lamp

13 10 Driver Door Window/Lock Switch, Passenger Door Window/Lock Switch, Central Timer Module

You can check each of the things the fuse powers to id where the draw is coming from.

 

It's not uncommon for the underhood light to come on even when the hood is closed. I ended up disconnecting my light unless I need it while under the hood.

 

So checking some more stuff today and I was able to put in my #13 fuse (power lock) with no draw. So now it's down to the iod fuse the flasher relay and the pcm being unplugged. I do have some loose wires from the automatic transmission plug hanging from putting the manual in i found. I'm going to clean those up and see if that does anything.

 

I'm getting somewhere I found why the iod fuse had a draw it was an overhead lamp light that is burnt out. So now I'm down to the flasher relay and pcm that give me a draw. That little light felt like such a success lol

 

That would point to some sort of electronic control module staying on until something changes that makes it go to sleep. Fuse 3 in the underhood PDC is the main power for the PCM and fuse 9 inside is the switched power. Does pulling either of these make any difference ?

 

I'm unsure about this particular year, but I usually disconnect the battery and connect it with a jumper. then I add my meter and wait for the vehicle to settle... on newer ones that can last quite a while. When its settled down, I remove the jumper and its just the meter. That would be your actual draw.