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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 01:39 PM
  #11  
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This is what Google says...
"Brake rotors are no longer manufactured in the United States or Canada for aftermarket consumption. The “domestic” brands you may be familiar with (Raybestos,Wagner, Bendix, Centric, Motorcraft, Delco) are all manufactured in China/Taiwan." Goes for drums also.

I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 RWD V10
Just was wondering if you have a 8800 or 7500 lbs truck? Should be different drums. it's along shot but look up the oem part # and see if you can find a nos part. Finding a good used one with low miles is another option.
I have had rotors cut and still had issues because the equipment used to cut them is old and worn. So finding a place with equipment that will cut to tight tolerance is going to be hard to find.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
Just was wondering if you have a 8800 or 7500 lbs truck? Should be different drums. it's along shot but look up the oem part # and see if you can find a nos part. Finding a good used one with low miles is another option.
This gets back to my earlier question - which rear axle is in the truck (Dana 60, 70, 80, ??)? I'm assuming that it's a single axle rear axle and not a dually..
 
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
This is what Google says...
"Brake rotors are no longer manufactured in the United States or Canada for aftermarket consumption. The “domestic” brands you may be familiar with (Raybestos,Wagner, Bendix, Centric, Motorcraft, Delco) are all manufactured in China/Taiwan." Goes for drums also.


Just was wondering if you have a 8800 or 7500 lbs truck? Should be different drums. it's along shot but look up the oem part # and see if you can find a nos part. Finding a good used one with low miles is another option.
I have had rotors cut and still had issues because the equipment used to cut them is old and worn. So finding a place with equipment that will cut to tight tolerance is going to be hard to find.

8800, I was still dealing with out of round drums after replacing a bent axle, .007 old, new .001 wabble at the mating surface for the drum without the drum. The Bendix drums came from Parts Geeks and were out of round so I had the local NAPA give it a try to turn them and it worked. Smooth braking now. Ticks me off that I have to turn drums to get them in shape and not being reimbursed for the cost of turning them.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AtomicDog
This gets back to my earlier question - which rear axle is in the truck (Dana 60, 70, 80, ??)? I'm assuming that it's a single axle rear axle and not a dually..
Dana 70 and not a dually.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 11:20 AM
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For an update on the front rotors and rear drums. I finally got a set of front rotors I didn't have to turn, but the rear drums case (maybe in another thread) had to be turned after buying and sending back 3 times of different brands. They were not only out of round but out of balance. I got the drums turned but still the balance was off. To check the balance, I removed the wheels and drums on both sides and ran up the speed to 70 mph. Of course, the rear axle was on jack stands. No vibration without the wheels, tires, and drums or in the driveline. I put one drum on at a time and ran the speed up to 70 mph, both had vibrations. After doing a lot of research, I contacted a shop out on the East Coast that balances drums, the shipping and balancing cost was prohibitive. I ended up buying a bubble tire balancer. I would grind the heavy side down until I got the bubble to center. It is not a perfect balance, but it looks like I have to live with it. Another thing I did was buy balancing beads to put in the tires, which helped some more. One downside with the beads is, don't hammer the throttle from a stop or low speed, the beads won't get to where they need to be. I had to put beads in all 4 tires because I rotate the tires with every oil change. I think you have to get up to 35-45 mph for the beads to get to where they belong, and after that speed, you can hammer the throttle.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 12:03 PM
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Beads are notorious for causing more problems than the solve..... Find a shop that has an 'on the car' balancer. Problem solved. Trouble becomes, finding someone that has one.... They same to be rather rare.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 06:25 PM
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Another issue is a lot of places have old worn out equipment. I had a rotor that was out of round by a bad bearing(4X4). After I got it back on the truck(with a new bearing) it was better but still could feel it every time you hit the brake. As I used it it got better because the pad was wearing the high spots.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2025 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Beads are notorious for causing more problems than the solve..... Find a shop that has an 'on the car' balancer. Problem solved. Trouble becomes, finding someone that has one.... They same to be rather rare.
I've never heard of someone using balancing beads in a tire before. That's a new one on me!

As for using a balancing machine that spins the wheel on the car, I've had that procedure done on my '69 Charger many, many years ago. It did work well and cured the high speed vibration issue I had back then..
 
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Old Dec 3, 2025 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Beads are notorious for causing more problems than the solve..... Find a shop that has an 'on the car' balancer. Problem solved. Trouble becomes, finding someone that has one.... They same to be rather rare.
I have thought of on car balancing the tires first, the last time I had that done was maybe the late 70s. I know no one in my area does it that way, That is almost as old school as bubble balance. Thus the reason I looked for someone to balance the drums. Thanks for your reminder.

BTW, using a dial indicator I set the end play and checked for bent axles on the rear axle and with the dial indicator on the axle flange for wobble. Checked the bearings to make sure the vibration wasn't caused by the rear end. The beads were my only best option. What I have found as stated before, no fast starts and beads are no good for off road use. Chuck holes in the pavement could cause the beads to relocate, also.

Almost forgot this, I rotate the tires during an oil change, with a on car tire balance the fronts wouldn't be balanced on the front or rear after the rotation. I would have to have balancing done with each rotation.
 

Last edited by Rodney Shell; Dec 3, 2025 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2025 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodney Shell
I have thought of on car balancing the tires first, the last time I had that done was maybe the late 70s. I know no one in my area does it that way, That is almost as old school as bubble balance. Thus the reason I looked for someone to balance the drums. Thanks for your reminder.

BTW, using a dial indicator I set the end play and checked for bent axles on the rear axle and with the dial indicator on the axle flange for wobble. Checked the bearings to make sure the vibration wasn't caused by the rear end. The beads were my only best option. What I have found as stated before, no fast starts and beads are no good for off road use. Chuck holes in the pavement could cause the beads to relocate, also.

Almost forgot this, I rotate the tires during an oil change, with a on car tire balance the fronts wouldn't be balanced on the front or rear after the rotation. I would have to have balancing done with each rotation.
There is that.... Probably why they are even harder to find today, than they were when they were 'popular'....

I don't know that I have ever had a vibration issue due to a drum being out of balance though.... That's a new one on me.
 
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