Does the coil get ground via direct contact with the metal bracket it is mounted to? I painted it and other components (such as the oil pan) Hemi orange when I was re-assembling everything; if it requires direct metal to metal contact for a good ground connection that might be my issue.

I do have a multimeter. To check the resistance values should I just remove the cable that goes to the distributor and put one of the multimeter probes on the exposed connection?

Also besides ensuring the distributor was dropped in the correct position (with #1 at TDC with the exhaust valve about to open) and that the timing marks on the cam/crank were aligned, I did not set fuel sync. I was under the impression that the computer managed that automatically and there was no reason to have it adjusted. I don't have a DRBIII scan tool so should I take it to a shop to get it properly set?

 

As an FYI, the old Snap-On MT2500 (red brick) scanner has the function to set the fuel sync. They can be picked up used on Craigslist, eBay, Facebook Marketplace, etc. fairly reasonably these days, since these scanners are old and out of date. You would need the scanner, the appropriate cartridge for Dodge vehicles, along with the cable & OBD2 adapter.

 

The coil has a ground wire that's part of the connector. Yes you should make sure the timing gets set properly with a scan tool. If you did the install well you should be within 4-5 degrees, which won't be the total cause of what's going on. Coils have 2 sets of resistance values to check, the primary and secondary. The factory service manual will help you https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-manuals.html

 

Thanks for the suggestion; I also called a local shop and they said they'll set it for $100.

 

It appears that the service manual only provides installation and removal procedures (Section 8i, Pages 13-15). Is there a diagnostic section I'm missing?

 

Page 8l-3

COIL MANUFACTURER PRIMARY RESISTANCE
21-27°C (70-80°F) SECONDARY RESISTANCE 21-27°C

(70-80°F)
Diamond Primary 0.97 - 1.18 Ohms Secondary 11,300 - 15,300 Ohms
Toyodenso Primary 0.95 - 1.20 Ohms Secondary 11,300 - 13,300 Ohms

 

Well I feel silly now, thanks for the assistance. I'll get my multimeter and check back shortly.

 

With ambient air temperature of 70* and the key in the ignition set to run I supposedly got 144,000 Ohms on the secondary and 16,500 Ohms on the primary? I used an old multimeter that the mechanic at my work had so I'll check again once I'm home.

 

Redid it at home with my trusted multimeter and got 110.7k Ohms on the primary and 56 Ohms on the secondary with the key set to accessory. Something is definitely not right.

 

That's a bad coil.