update May 10 2024: I’ll update again in 2 weeks when I have time to pull the dash back apart. I will be working on the homemade ducting for the AC vents and the defrost vents. The idea is to use ABS plastic with a heat gun and some purchased heater ducting they use for Semi heating to mold the pieces together.

Mods, please move or remove if not in the correct spot. I couldn’t find a whole lot of information out there. I am currently in the process of installing a fortune – into my second GEN 2000 Dodge ram 1500 5.2L 4x4. I have only ever browsed this for him and I did find a whole lot of good information. However, I feel like there is an incomplete guide and if there is interest, I would be happy to post some details and some lessons learned.

Tools Used/Needed:
Metal Angle Grinder/Cutter
Impact Driver
Drill
Heat Gun
Sawzall
Plastic Welder
Plastic Fastener Remover Tool
Car Trim Plastic Removal Tools

Hardware/Consumables:
These electrical connectors (similar to below). I was able to fastener a deflector shield from old piece of aluminum and used hose clamps to hold it on. It allowed the 360º heat to melt the solder and heat shrink before the plastic melted. Takes a few tries but if you mess up you can pull it off almost immediately and retry it.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...UaAo4wEALw_wcB
Self Tapping Screws
Electrical Tape (A lot of it)
Various wire attachments for new ground wires, etc.
3/4" X 3/4" X 8-ft L Mill Finished Aluminum Solid Angle

Ebay Purchases so Far:

56045531AE; DODGE DURANGO OEM Headlight Switch 01 02 03 04 I originally bought the one with the Fog Light but it immediately blew my park lamp fuse so will try this one. I had added on Fog lights so if theres a way I could splice them in to work with the Fog light one, Feel free to comment and tell me how. My brain is hurting trying to find and read wiring schematics.
(Also, the reason behind this and not the original is the square design. The 2000 Dodge Ram headlight switch is a kinda oval/half moon looking shape and it won't fit where the 2009 Dodge Headlight switch was). I currently have the OG one ziptied where "Cell phone holder" or cubby is right above the parking brake release.


Top is dodge ram headlight switch Bottom is dodge Durango headlight switch The fog light circuit breaker is white, kept blowing my park lamp fuse

The one on the left is the original heat sink The one on the right is a dodge Durango heat sink The circuits for your dome light and dimming are exactly the same

This is the backside of your actually headlight switch. This is very delicate to put together in fact the springs as you can see in the top middle go inside. There is a cylinder piece of copper that sits on those springs and has held in contact with a circuit board just through the entire component being put back together A note here is the Durango does not use the bottom contact point so you will have to take out the screen in the contact from the old switch and put it in to the Durango switch

Just showing most of the pieces together

Basically, all I did was utilize the back half of the Dodge Durango switch, and the plastic cover piece with the Dodge Durango heat sink. I also use the dimmer switch out of the Durango. However, my headlight switch is my original.

This is just showing it all back together. It works 100% all the plastic piece are from the Dodge Durango. You will utilize the heat sink from the dodge Durango. Internally, you will use the Dodge ram headlights circuit controls see the picture above


1999 JEEP CHEROKEE XJ SPORT A/C HEAT CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT 55037426AD +OEM+ 100% This is in the photo below. The electrical connectors are direct connect. The Blue vacuum hose I plugged. Everything is working, it's not perfect, but it works. Will have to deep dive in this a little more.

Additional Puchases:
Purchased a new hoodlatch cable from Amazon for a 2009/10 Dodge and just rerouted it. It works well enough as the OG you can't separate enough to get it to work.

Parking Brake:
I used a cable nut to tie to the parking brake rods together. As it's lacking about 2 inches to be good. I may bend one up in the future, but it works and other things need work first.

Additional Cutting Info:
The Front of the new dash that meets up to the Windshield. Took approximately 1" off of it and used a grinder to grind more or less 45º degree to have it sit. Because of the gap and how it sits, the VIN is still readable.

Cons:
If you're a bigger person, I wouldn't do this as this dash is a lot bigger. However, because I have new seats that sit higher and further forward, I am not sure the clearance. But it's definitely a lot closer to the knees and getting in and out. For reference: I am an average Adult Male in the USA.
I have a 4X4 so I did not install the drink holder panel as I have cup holders in the center console now and it works for me as I 90% of the time am the only person in the truck.


Update to where I am now. Let me start with a few things first, my old dash was beyond repair. Taking it out literally fell into about 3 pieces. Only the metal frame was intact. Entirety of the dash and components were held together with zip ties, screws, and epoxy. Also, I was able to pick up a full dash out of a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 for cheap, came with the dash cluster (used the plastic front) and full wiring (not terribly important but additional wire was helpful with extending the wire for the HVAC controller). I extended the wires because I wanted it in and around the same place as the 2009 Dodge HVAC controller.

For Context: A lot of the progress happened over 4 days with my Dad is an expert Mechanic. Also, I'd highly advise to replace the heater core while you have such easy access. It was a $100 replacement that the labor was free at this point!

YMMW But--Also: A lot of videos showed them fitting the Dash + The Instrumental Panel Reinforcement. We pulled the too apart and worked on fitting the Instrument panel reinforcement (AKA what I call the dash frame) with the dash/dash core removed.

First: I took everything out and disconnected the wiring from the old dash. There is a hidden connector that's tucked inside of the right door frame that leads into the passenger door frame. It stumped us for about 2 hours!


and if there is interest, I would be happy to post some details and some lessons learned.

Used a 4" L angle aluminum and match drilled it to the fuse block and used nuts and teflon locking bolts and then attached it to the dash frame with self tapping screws. It's sturdy and doesn't have a lot of bouncing Around.
New Fuse Block Location

Instrument Panel Metal Reinforcement Cut and where it sits

Temporary A/C Ducts

Driver Side Dash Gap only visible with Door Open

Drivers Side top Dash Gap

Mocked Up Wire Placement

Instrument Panel Metal Reinforcement Cut and where it sits

Longer view of Instrument Panel Metal Reinforcement

1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport A/C Heat Climate Control Unit 55037426AD

Similar Instrument Panel Metal Reinforcement and the red circles are where we cut off. The taps on the outside that you can see in pictures above and the braces that hold the front part of the dash had to come off.

Instrumental Cluster Fitment on Steering Column

Instrument Cluster Fitment (it's tight but it works)

Shimmed Steering Column with 1/8" Alignment Shims. Thanks Harbor Freight

Steering Column Shimmed

Fitting the Instrument Panel Metal Reinforcement AKA Dash Mounting

Driver Side Core Mount from inside view. Used the old brace that I cut off and was able to utilize it.

Driver Side Mount Outside View. The passenger side, a hole lined up with the new core and I reamed it a little bit and it fit perfect for me. YMMV. I also put a few self tappers above on the passenger side for good measure.

 

If you can update the title to add "4th Gen Dash Conversion to 2000 2nd gen truck" that would be extremely helpful, along with providing pictures and information about your swap. I think folks would find it very helpful.

 

Will do. I’ll edit it more and provide more information over the weekend.

thank you!

 

There's always a ton of interest in these swaps, although I suspect VERY few people ever actually complete them.

A detailed tech write-up would be awesome, but it's also a lot of work to do it right, I understand.

 

Nothing wrong with the second gen layout. So i don't see swapping another gen dash would be a improvement. The dash cracking is another issue all together.

 

Yeah, if you can, also tell us about ductwork, wiring harnesses/adapters, gaps, mounting brackets, braces, etc. I know it's going to be a huge undertaking but you might as well document it as you go. Maybe provide an update at each milestone?

Looks like you already have the seats and console situated. Did you write anything about those? LOOKS GOOD!!

 

I didn't document or write anything about the seats. The seats are out of a 2016 Dodge Durango Sport I believe. I only wired up the drivers seat for being able to move electrically. I never had electric seats, but I was able to ground them with the other grounds and since I had the fuse block out. I tapped into the back of the fuse spots where they are supposed to be.

The Center Console is out of a 2017 Chevy Silverado.

Everything so far is a budget build on a cheap truck that I love.