Headlight Nightmare..... Did i burn up my dimmer switch?
So basically i got myself a set of NHK projectors and retrofitted them into the autosaver 88 single piece headlights [non sport]. tested the plugs before i started building the harness. so after testing the pins i got : Low beam; pin1 12v pin 2 grnd, pin 3 inactive Hi beam; pin 1 ground, pin 2 inactive, pin 3 12v also noted that pin 1 is +12v even when headlights are off. So i built the harness and in the meantime something happened and now pin 3 is always hot. im over 12 hours into building the harness and this ****ery happens. im assuming a bad dimmer switch? the hi beam indicator still works which throws me off. pin 1 still acts normal switching from hot to ground when switching from lo to hi beam but pin 3 stays hot even with the truck off now. pin 1 is normally hot when truck is off but that should be the only pin hot when off.
My harness is wired like this; pin 1 goes to relay coil, pin 2 and 3 go to the other end of the relay coil. in theory when low beam is active pin 1 will give hot and pin 2 will give ground to activate coil, in hi beam pin 1 is ground and pin 3 provides 12v to coil. this allows the relay to activate during high and lo beam to keep the projector powered. the projector hi beam solenoid is wired to pin 1 and 3 directly and only activates during high beam. since pin 2 and 3 completely disconnect from circuit during lo and hi beam operation [no continuity] i decided not to use schottky diodes for reverse current protection. i do have them if i need them but i dont think so since there isnt continuity between the pins 2 and 3 when low or hi beam is active. the harness isnt plugged into anything now and i currently have no headlights so please help with any advice.
thanks in advance,
Jacob
My harness is wired like this; pin 1 goes to relay coil, pin 2 and 3 go to the other end of the relay coil. in theory when low beam is active pin 1 will give hot and pin 2 will give ground to activate coil, in hi beam pin 1 is ground and pin 3 provides 12v to coil. this allows the relay to activate during high and lo beam to keep the projector powered. the projector hi beam solenoid is wired to pin 1 and 3 directly and only activates during high beam. since pin 2 and 3 completely disconnect from circuit during lo and hi beam operation [no continuity] i decided not to use schottky diodes for reverse current protection. i do have them if i need them but i dont think so since there isnt continuity between the pins 2 and 3 when low or hi beam is active. the harness isnt plugged into anything now and i currently have no headlights so please help with any advice.
thanks in advance,
Jacob
From the factory, the headlight switch pulls way too much current to have a long life. To alleviate this issue permanently, most folks setup relayed headlight harnesses to allow the headlights to pull current from the battery and use the headlight switch as a switching mechanism only. For more information, you can speak with these folks that provide a relayed headlight harness for 2nd gen trucks with sport headlights (4 bulb) - https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/hea...ion-relay-kit/
You can also check out this relayed headlight harness for non-sport headlights - https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...ories-lighting
You can also check out this relayed headlight harness for non-sport headlights - https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...ories-lighting
Last edited by AtomicDog; Jun 29, 2024 at 12:11 AM.
im not sure you understood my question. WHY is my high beam pin 3 at the headlight socket staying hot constantly now? It should only become hot when the brights are applied. pin 1 still acts as it should and switches from hot to ground when brights applied. pin 3 is my problem pin and i believe it runs from the dimmer switch which is the stalk that controls your brights.
From the factory, the headlight switch pulls way too much current to have a long life. To alleviate this issue permanently, most folks setup relayed headlight harnesses to allow the headlights to pull current from the battery and use the headlight switch as a switching mechanism only. For more information, you can speak with these folks that provide a relayed headlight harness for 2nd gen trucks with sport headlights (4 bulb) - https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/hea...ion-relay-kit/
You can also check out this relayed headlight harness for non-sport headlights - https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...ories-lighting
You can also check out this relayed headlight harness for non-sport headlights - https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...ories-lighting
What year is the truck ? There are significant differences between trucks with the round pull style headlight switch and the later "chicken head" three position switch. From your description I'm guessing it's a 99+ truck.
My harness is wired like this; pin 1 goes to relay coil, pin 2 and 3 go to the other end of the relay coil. in theory when low beam is active pin 1 will give hot and pin 2 will give ground to activate coil, in hi beam pin 1 is ground and pin 3 provides 12v to coil. this allows the relay to activate during high and lo beam to keep the projector powered. the projector hi beam solenoid is wired to pin 1 and 3 directly and only activates during high beam. since pin 2 and 3 completely disconnect from circuit during lo and hi beam operation [no continuity] i decided not to use schottky diodes for reverse current protection. i do have them if i need them but i dont think so since there isnt continuity between the pins 2 and 3 when low or hi beam is active. the harness isnt plugged into anything now and i currently have no headlights so please help with any advice.
thanks in advance,
Jacob
thanks in advance,
Jacob
Sorry. Due to late night reading, I missed your inference of using a relay in your custom harness.
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What NHK projectors are you using? Keep in mind HID's don't have separate "bulbs" for high/low. They use one bulb and there is a shutter inside the housing that moves to provide the light pattern to raise up a bit. You need to use relays to provide power at low/high. Supply power to the relays from the battery and use the headlight switch for powering the relays(high/low). You will also need to wire up the shutter to the high relay so it will raise the beam pattern. Are these what you are using? Read the note:
Wiring: Please note that these units come with 4 bare wire leads. One power and ground for each of the low and high beam inputs. We offer pre-attached 9006 and 9005 inputs for easier hook up. Single filament applications can use a direct connection to factory low beam plug with a high beam splitter. Dual filament applications will require a MotoControl wiring harness to make this unit plug and play.
Wiring: Please note that these units come with 4 bare wire leads. One power and ground for each of the low and high beam inputs. We offer pre-attached 9006 and 9005 inputs for easier hook up. Single filament applications can use a direct connection to factory low beam plug with a high beam splitter. Dual filament applications will require a MotoControl wiring harness to make this unit plug and play.
Yes standard double pole relay. 85 ans 86 are coil pins 30 and 87 are common and hot. please note the probelm is with the harness removed.










