Like I said I would like an automatic locker at some point, with the cad in place it would still behave nice when in 2wd.

 

The automatic lockers have gotten pretty good lately. If it isn't under power, it shouldn't lock regardless of the difference in wheel speeds. With the right auto-locker, you wouldn't notice the difference between it, and an open diff, even with the cad constantly locked.

 

The Posilock I have waiting to put in, I can mount the interior **** any place I like in the cab. That would be a crappy place to put it under the dash like that.

 

Definitely disconnect the lines at the t-case and CAD and blow air thru thr hardlines that run along the trans xmember and RH framerail. You can kinda tell if you get equal output at each. If one seems restricted, there's something-- most likely a tiny piece of gravel in there.

I DON'T KNOW HOW GRAVEL GETS IN THESE LINES, but I've seen it on a '99 Ram and an '05 F150. It allows vac in most cases, but weak vac so engagement is questionable.

Also make sure the big rubber plug at t-case vac switch is in good condition. They crack or "wallow" out at switch male ports and then leak. BTDT. A whole new harness is surprisingly affordable ~$40

OP, I too hate vacuum for engagement of things but have been surprised at how well this system works and lasts. Obviously, YMMV and I respect that.

I wonder if an electric actuator from a GMT800 could be fit? Those almost never had problems

 

Also, regarding the vac switch plug, it's difficult to hear a leak with truck running. I got lucky and could just hear it.

Smoking might work, but the rubber may expand depending upon heat.

If you can get a helper, elevate RF wheel and then engage 4wd. Have helper spin tire and see if you can cause erratic engagement by manipulating/ squeezing plug at vac switch.

 

Well I seem to have a functioning car again after 4 days of various repairs. So I'll be getting back to this project. I'm going to get a used housing/actuator so I can work on this and start figuring out dimensions and how to mount a solenoid on it.

 

So I decided to check out my cad system. Smoke checked and leak checked fine. So I decided to rule out a vacuum issue with the cam by adding an electric vacuum pump off of a chevy c4500 and a vacuum reservoir. That didn't fix the issue of it wanting it to disengage. So I started to assume a mechanical issue that was causing the splines to push the collar against the actuator. Well suspicion confirmed. Pinion is also loose. So I am going to rebuild both front and rear and convert it to 4.56s.

 

Splines on the inner axle look kinda beat up there......

 

Might want to look at the collar also. Probably looks similar.

 

I already have both shafts and the collar. Just gotta find time to start this project.