One thing I have not heard mentioned is vacuum lines.
A loose or leaking vacuum line will cause havoc with the way your engine runs. Possible it may be your issue.
When I changed my TB I knocked one loose, it idled fine but ran like crap .... worth checking.

 

Have a scanner that can read live data?? I would have look at what TPS is doing as you slowly roll into it. Even testing return signal with a VOM would probably tell you if it's good or not.

 

i don't know of anyone that has a scanner that will read live data on a OBD 1 system.
truck is pre obd2 and only has limited codes even and they are the old 2 digit numerical codes

 

i think that is one thing my mechanic is going to have to go through at this point all i can do is bring it to him when he has time i can't do most of this myself and out in the freezing cold not about to either. I am at my Wits end with what i can do and honestly so many different thing are being said here i can no longer make sense of anything. I did the check for codes and that pretty much told me what i already knew except for code 37 but i don't feel that is related o2 and egr codes/issues have been there as long as i have owned the truck close to 8 yrs. did complete tune up (plugs wires cap,rotor) about 3 or 4 months back and went with blue streak brass contacts not the aluminum contacts for cap and rotor. has new distributor pick up module as truck quit and i thought it was crank sensor so i had that changed and no difference so had another actual mechanic come out swap it again and actually check it over and he told me to replace the pick up under the cap i did and truck ran great. and was going great till all of a sudden it started acting up out of the blue. also replaced coil as that did not look great but was not part of the issue so at this point i do not know where to turn. Just going to have to fork out money i really don't have to hopefully have my mechanic fix it

 

The TPS is a potentiometer, It acts as a variable resistor. To run the engine you need a smooth transition from idle to full throttle. More or less voltage being sent to the pcm telling it where the throttle is. IF it is worn you won't get a smooth sweep but choppy and sporadic. The voltage given to the pcm will be the same causing high low and in between voltages causing the pcm to run the engine off those readings(like crap). Once it gets past the worn area works perfect again(1/2 to full throttle) Usually the low to mid range on the throttle is used the most so that's where the wear will be. It's an easy test with a VOM. Find the return voltage and watch the sweep as you give it more/less throttle.

 

honestly i have no idea what you just said i understood the voltage but the rest Idk. the thing is if i'm sitting in park not going it doesn't seem to do it but when i am going is when it does it. when i called my mechanic he was thinking either vacuum or maybe Map sensor i am not that great with this stuff. I can do basics when it comes to the more technical stuff i am lost. i don't have much other than basic and i mean basic tools. at this point on the financial aspect my guy will work with me as he is also a good friend of mine. it's just him having time as he is fairly busy and runs the shop out of his home

 

my folk are having their guy look at it tomorrow morning guess gotta see what he figures out if he is any good never met the guy but my dad thinks he's good although my dad is rather clueless with vehicles would have preferred my mechanic go through it but he is just slammed busy right now

 

ok that guy had a bunch of excuses after sitting there for 20min as to why he would not be open today so i was able to get to my mechanic he briefly looked it over sprayed all the vacuum line and intake with starting fluid no vacuum leak found check fuel pressure but had had time getting his gauge to thread on but what we did get was 40psi fuel pressure at idle. he is thinking either MAP sensor or fuel pressure sensor IDK gonna be another time i guess before he can really dig into it i just hate to throw parts at something and not fix it

 

There is no fuel pressure sensor. and 40 PSI is about right for a 95.

 

never said fuel pressure sensor there is however a fuel pressure regulator : but what i have read is 44-54psi now it is not saying if that is at idle or what we had trouble getting the tester to screw on to the valve at the rail and with the way it is running it was a tense ride home tonight as it started snowing as i was leaving and by time i got a mile down the rd it was snowing heavy so i could not do the usual to get the rpm high of hammer down get to speed and use a lower gear to keep rpm up seems to run ok at like 3,000 rpm and if going uphill i had to drop right down to low to keep it from coughing and bucking and popping back.on level ground i can maintain 55mph as long as i keep rpm up and once they are up i can basically rest my foot on the gas to keep going but if i try to give it gas it starts with coughing,popping back and can cause it to kinda buck. It almost feels like it is running out of gas but i have plenty that is what i don't get. I am strongly considering next month going right through and doing pump,regulator,MAP and TPS i really don't want to do all that but with out knowing what is happening i don't see any other option as i said before i can't afford to replace it but am about at my witts end with it. I need a truck and 4wd where i live
Fuel Pressure Regulator - 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 | O'Reilly Auto Parts