99 Ram 2500 5.9 dsl turbo 4x4 will not engage
Somebody produces a one piece shaft to eliminated the lockout. I'm not sure if the one piece shaft from late model D60 axles is a direct swap or not. One of the first things I do personally is take the actuator off and you can flip the snap rings on the plunger and it holds the collar over all the time. Basically eliminate the CAD system. Its unreliable and annoying in my opinion, maybe save .5mpg over the life of the truck. Just make sure your front driveshaft is in top condition, as the the constant rotation will be more likely to cause problems.
Don't waste any money or time trying to replace "auto hubs" there's no such thing on these trucks, unless it has an aftermarket lockout conversion, you'll never find any type of locking hub.
Don't waste any money or time trying to replace "auto hubs" there's no such thing on these trucks, unless it has an aftermarket lockout conversion, you'll never find any type of locking hub.
However I agree that these systems are more reliable than I'd expect. Still, they are a bit fragile and if you really THINK about it, it's amazing they work as well as they do.
I've never really had a problem with the cad system... It's more reliable than the thermal system GM used for a while.
(yeah, lets use a heated actuator, that gets buried in snow, and disengages.... yeah, that's a good idea...... somewhere....) Granted, as they age, they require some attention, but the system on both my trucks worked perfectly once I had them straightened out.
(yeah, lets use a heated actuator, that gets buried in snow, and disengages.... yeah, that's a good idea...... somewhere....) Granted, as they age, they require some attention, but the system on both my trucks worked perfectly once I had them straightened out.Each there own, they have their place and serve their purpose, I just prefer to go without. I was disappointed to find on my 14 that Ram went back to using a mid axle disconnect. Though electronically shifted maybe slightly more reliable? I also greatly enjoy have the 2wd low function backing trailers with this heavy dual disc clutch.
I think about around 280 bucks to have my front shaft rebuilt with all new u-joints and such. (on my 96... my current truck, seems to be just fine.)
Yeah, I suspect having the disconnect likely nets maybe 1 MPG overall..... but, it does reduce wear on the front driveshaft.... for whatever that's worth. How often do you change u-joints in the rear shaft?
I think about around 280 bucks to have my front shaft rebuilt with all new u-joints and such. (on my 96... my current truck, seems to be just fine.)
I think about around 280 bucks to have my front shaft rebuilt with all new u-joints and such. (on my 96... my current truck, seems to be just fine.)
It's absolutely true the CVs are neglected in these and THAT is the Achilles Heel. I mean it's seriously a big deal no one talks about and no one thinks about.
I WILL SAY: if your front CV should happen to fail, you really want to disengage front drive so the d/s is not forced to spin. Otherwise you crack the t-case in two and parts for the NP241D are incredibly rare. BTDT:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...carnage-2.html
I WILL SAY: if your front CV should happen to fail, you really want to disengage front drive so the d/s is not forced to spin. Otherwise you crack the t-case in two and parts for the NP241D are incredibly rare. BTDT:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...carnage-2.html










