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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I thought for sure I had listed the mileage but don't see it. She's low mileage 129k. I'd edit my first post to add that.
I'm expecting the worst. The longer water pump bolts seized, risk of breaking intake bolts, even the plenum bolts I have read snapping off. I'm driving another vehicle so not rushed. Just wanted opinions on how far to tear down ... from there I'll order parts.
What I'd like to see are plenum pan pics 5,000 miles or 50,000 miles later and see what "normal" oil from crankcase ventilation looks like on these aluminum plenum pan upgrades.
If you can see the timing cover leaking (easiest from underneath looking up) ABSOLUTELY replace the gasket. It's only a half dozen additional fasteners that are easily accessible. And yeah, once you're there the timing set is one bolt (literally, I think?)
FWIW I have proven on this forum with pics you can remove the timing cover with the water pump attached.
I think most of the Chrysler engines are this way. This is the 4.7 timing cover with water pump still attached. It only had 10K on it, so I left it on when I removed the cover.
I think most of the Chrysler engines are this way. This is the 4.7 timing cover with water pump still attached. It only had 10K on it, so I left it on when I removed the cover.
And now you understand the concept of OHC.
On a pushrod motor the cam lives in the block just above the crank. Pushrods are driven by the cam to activate rockers in your heads. There's just one, short chain from crank to cam.
There's a single bolt on the cam sprocket, then both sprockets and chain slide off together. This happens to be a double roller aftermarket, the chain need not be "double" width like this:
On a pushrod motor the cam lives in the block just above the crank. Pushrods are driven by the cam to activate rockers in your heads. There's just one, short chain from crank to cam.
There's a single bolt on the cam sprocket, then both sprockets and chain slide off together. This happens to be a double roller aftermarket, the chain need not be "double" width like this:
Oh, yeah. That is much simpler than this.....
Yeah, a lot harder when you have to remove valve covers and keep three chains in line without jumping any teeth. The tendency of the cams to roll into an incorrect position due to spring tension had me puckered up good.
The original chains were all inverted tooth and they were in great condition, given the miles. As I said in my thread, if I could have slipped in the guides without removing the chains, I would have kept the old chains.... LOL. I ended up with an incorrect timing set for a later version of the 4.7, which updated the two cam chains to roller type. Instead of sending it back, I made it work.
Anyway, I can see now why you guys would go ahead and replace the chain and timing cover gasket on the 5.2...it's a walk in the park. On a 4.7, you don't develop such thoughts while changing the water pump. LOL
Last edited by Dodgevity; Mar 9, 2026 at 06:31 PM.
it wasn't so much a labor issue but part cost creep.
option 1 was replacing water pump and done and know exactly how much that will cost.
option 2 was add in timing chain inspection and install my aluminum plenum pan... the cost creep being timing chain set, oops maybe a cam, oops maybe this or that, then all of a sudden I'm ordering new heads.
also need to replace all the loose front suspension. tie rods, pitman + idler, ball joints, shocks, bushing master kit... except I have all the parts on hand except front shocks (a thread in itself). And no danger of scope creep because I know exactly what I need to do. I was about to start this front end work in a couple of weeks.... until my water pump failed.
Yeah, I know that feeling when I have to open up my steel trap of a wallet. Good luck with everything and add an alignment to your cost. I've got a few Pull-A-Parts around me and have had good luck finding some really good parts while crunching around in the gravel. Over the years I've managed to get the suspension pretty tight, but I'll be changing out wheel bearing hubs soon again. Ball joints were a bear because I had the original riveted set to take out. I put in the greasable ones and have been keeping up with them. Believe it or not, even with 350K on this Dak, the original shocks still feel nice and tight. Yeah, I knocked on wood when I typed this.
I had pre-PB Blastered the suspension for a couple days in a row before water pump issue came up, and inspected the ball joints looking for spot welds or rivets... didn't see either luckily.
