Ok, that doesn't look like a vacuum leak...... Need to see what other sensors are reporting.... What's TPS voltage with throttle closed, and is it stable?

 

TPS voltage is .51v closed. It stays at .51v and doesn't fluctuate. Goes up smoothly to 3.63v at full throttle and reads 100%. Map sensor voltage is 4.2v engine off and .9v at 19.5" running. It read 0" manifold pressure when I first hooked up and it shows anywhere from 1-5" after the engine starts and dies, but it still shows 4.2v. I'm pretty sure thats normal though, as I have heard that at 0 rpm it reads for barometric pressure. Coolant temp is 3.6v and 86° and intake temp is 3.77v and 77° right now after starting it a couple of times just now. Both seem correct with an ir thermometer. Are there some parameters I could record for you that might help?

 

Just pulled the plugs and they are definitely sooty like its running rich. These have approximately half an hour run time tops. Thats kinda making me think vacuum leak and its overcompensating for it by adding fuel? If it had a vacuum leak from the crankcase between the intake manifold and head then it wouldn't show up on a smoke test and wouldn't show up when I tried propane anns starting fluid. I'm not getting a vacuum on the crankcase when I run it with the pcv pinched off and a gauge on the breather, but its not really building pressure either. I'm kinda thinking I need to pull the intake. I had it off a week ago to reseal the plenum hoping that was the problem. I put it back with new fel-pro gaskets and bolts. Do you guys ever use a sealant with those intake gaskets? Is that something I should have done?

 

That's running pig rich. Are those standard copper plugs?

 

That ZFR6F comes up nickle alloy

 

No, these are NGKs that I picked up locally. I put in Champion RC12lc4 when I did the swap initially. I swapped these in while chasing this idle issue to see if it made a difference. It didn't. I pulled and resealed the intake and plenum this weekend. Got it all back together and it's acting exactly the same. Could this be caused by a distributor issue? I have the sync set at 0° according to my scan tool, but its one of the few things I haven't changed yet. I replaced the cap and rotor when I had the motor on the stand.

 

Don't think it's a distributor issue. How old are your O2 sensors? Somethin' ain't quite right there.

 

I replaced the upstream sensor while chasing this issue. Used an NTK 23179. I just ohmed the harness out looking for any issues there and it all matches the diagram of the durango I used for the swap. Upstream read 4.76v and downstream read 4.88v cold. I started it and ran it for 30 seconds or so. Voltages dropped to about 1.07v and it shows reading rich still. Rear sensor took a few seconds longer to come down but still came down within 10 sec or so of the upstream sensor. Here are a couple videos of it from just now showing what its doing. Hopefully you can see something there. I appreciate your help on this. I literally have more time chasing this idle issue that the whole engine, trans and transfer case swap.🤦‍♂️Idle

 

Can't see the video of your scanner that well..... What IAC motor is in it?? Throttle body nice and clean?

 

Its a mopar IAC, and I've tried a new IAC from NAPA, and one from autozone. Entire throttle body is squeeky clean. I've even taken an entire throttle body assembly from a wrecking yard, cleaned it, and tried that. Acted exactly the same. I'll get a better video of the scanner later tonight.