So .. according to this diagram, this is where G107 begins ground to the body / chassis. There is indeed a black and orange wire there connected to my fender, and indeed there is ground there at that screw.





So .. my suspicion is that somewhere between that screen and the end of the wire on that ABS valve controller, the wire is broken. One way to test would be to put a new ground wire directly to that pin on that connector and reset the code. I think ?

 

Is it just possible ?!?!

 

Stay focused Ignore the 4WD indicator switch, it is connected via *circuit* G107 which is not the same as ground G107 (dumb I know). The 4WD indicator grounds via G102. Next, the picture does not look like G107 which is in the engine compartment. It looks like G201 inside the truck where the CAB grounds. Continue tracking down why you don't have a ground at the black/pink wire at the valve block, you did the right test the volt meter should read 12V between battery positive and that wire. The FSM picture isn't that great, the G107 ground might be hiding behind the ABS valve block or the PDC somewhere.

 

what the actual. So assuming this distinction, or rather the description of how to have the ability to make this distinction lies somewhere in this manual, what section should I have read to acquire the knowledge to be able to recognize "circuit" vs. "ground" ?

Do you mean the picture that I took of the screw with the black and orange wire (and other wires ) ? That is a picture that I took of my inner fender in the engine compartment I assure you. It is just behind ( front to back ) the PDC on the fender wall.

I'll try to follow that black / pink wire from the connector .. somwhere back to see where it should be connected to ground. ( Not sure how I got on a "black / orange" wire in my mind with the ABS valve ..I must have gotten mixed up with the black / orange wire which does connect to the CAB controller as ground, but I have to speculate that wire goes from that fender wall all the way to the CAB controller to provide ground. )

I'll hold off, but I still think i'm going to end up needing the 4x4 indicator switch which installs down at the vacuum fork in the front axle to solve the problem that the 4WD light is not being lit when the 4x4 is engaged.

 

Negative, the valve block and the CAB use different ground points. There is no ground wire running from G107 to the CAB.
When I got my truck the 4x4 indicator wasn't working and it was the ground connection of the switch so test the switch first before replacing.

 

My Brake and ABS lights have been on for the last 6-7 years. Mine is rear anti-lock and it's the sensor on the pumkin.

 

I'm rather vested in a restoration of this truck I've had for a while. It's been like .. an 8 year process, but over the last 2 years I've really spent some time on it. I'm attempting to make everything .. as nice as I can, so I want the problem with the ABS and the 4WD indicator both fixed. There are several other relatively minor issues I need to correct after this in order to say "I'm done", but .. I'm basically driving it around town here and there, so it's reaaaally close, lol.

 

In my case, whenever i towed a trailer that whould happen. It was a fuse for the brake control. It was bad contacts in trailer plug that cause to many amps and fuse would. Blow and no brakes on trailer. But your issue could be different. I had a shop tell me to replace a lot of stuff but was just fuse.

 

I have found the problem was that this ground wire which I have circled .. .indeed G(round) 107 was NOT screwed to the fender. It was tucked up underneath the edge of the fender and I didn't see it hiding under there. Some chucklehead didn't take clear enough pictures when they took all these wires off to get the fender off to use as reference for putting everything back the way it came.

It all makes perfect sense now why code "2" was thrown. If you look at the picture of the ABS valve body, the wires show the ground wire coming in to the unit and the first split from that is to the Isolation valve. Without the ground, that valve would be the first valve in the sequence to throw a code. THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE HELP / GUIDANCE and especially that access to the FSM ( Wow is THAT thing USEFUL, and it blows the Haynes manual I have out of the water ). Now to move on to the next problems which I may or may not post about.

1. The 4WD indicator light isn't coming on.
2. Due to some changes I made with around the valve covers the tube coming from the EVAP is .. just .. floating in the breeze out there and I don't know where to connect it ( no check engine light about it )
3. The speakers on the left side of the truck aren't working ( they are brand new so the problem might be the head unit itself.)
4. Pressure is some how building in the fuel tank. When the tank is more than 3/4 full and then I drive the truck from a cool garage to out in the sunshine, AFTER I shut off the truck, fuel begins POURING out of something right on top of the tank. At first I thought it was the top seal gasket where the fuel pump until screws down on to the tank, but after getting the fuel level down to 3/4 the problem still was happening, so I think somehow pressure is building up and then being forced out of the fuel line ? I dunno ( I don't want to have to take the bed off (again) to observe the problem happening.
5. The drivers inner door panel has cracked most of the push clip holders which hold the door panel to the door, and it's kind of just hanging there by a couple. I'd love to get those repaired or get a new panel, but they are difficult to find in good condition.