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Misfire Conundrum

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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #1  
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Default Misfire Conundrum

OK, I have been having issues with a misfire on #6. In another thread related to a misfire problem, someone stated that the injector could be clogged as junk will collect in the fuel rail. I peered down my throttle body last night and didn't see oil pooling in the intake; however, it looks like there is a mild field of sludge-like tar in there. What irks me is an apparent oil leak along the passenger side head. I did state in an earlier thread the #6 appears oil fouled when I pulled it even though I am getting a compression reading of over 126lbs. I am hemming and hawing pulling the head to get it checked out since I have already decided to yank the fuel rail, throttle body, and injectors and perform a thorough cleaning and inspection of everything.

Do any of you seasoned pro's have anything to add? I'm tempted to pull the intake off since the truck has 112,000 miles on it. If I replace the pan gasket then I am heading off potential trouble. I am a firm believer in preventative maintenance.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

Could still be the plenum. A small film of oil with dirt on it is normal. What you need to do is get a small mirror and drop it down there looking in the corners, mostly the back on the engine. It can freq. hide there making the look straight down the TB look fine.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 04:04 PM
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

I've been reading about all your problems finding your problem. I would be stumped as well. I just wanted to add that from reading some other posts on plenum gaskets, the concensus is to orderr the one from apsprecision.com as it is better than the dealer one. Steve00ram360 knows all about the plenum gasket deal if you want to p.m. him....
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

ORIGINAL: Racinfan83

I've been reading about all your problems finding your problem. I would be stumped as well. I just wanted to add that from reading some other posts on plenum gaskets, the concensus is to orderr the one from apsprecision.com as it is better than the dealer one. Steve00ram360 knows all about the plenum gasket deal if you want to p.m. him....
Thanks for the feedback. I have Steve's procedures printed out and in my Haynes at home. I have a solvent tank that my buddy has made use of when we're working on his VW Bus. Another VW friend happens to work at the factory that makes the fuel filters and he's going to send me one. I think I am going to also drop the fuel tank and give it a good cleaning with POR 15 Marine Clean. We did that with the gas tank in the VW this past weekend and Marine Clean is the best.

Also, we tested resistance on the injectors and they passed. As soon as I can afford the APS Precision Plenum kit, I am going to order it. BTW - do I need any type of RTV for the gasket as a sealant?

In the unlikely event I cannot clean my injector(s), can anyone recommend a source for injectors? I found these, which are $12 for the core and are reconditioned units.
http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/322a1320.html
 
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

another way to check for plenum gskt failure is to remove pcv from r/c and put finger on hole , if suction is felt ,plenum gskt failure, dealer has updated parts for repair.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #6  
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

126 psi seems way to low for a healthy 5.2/5.9 V8 cylinder
Here some info in an old post:
-----

I did a compression test on my 1995 Magnum 5.9V8 this afternoon.

This engine was broken in for the first 18,000 miles with conventional oil and
switched to Mobil One synthetic. It presently has the Mobil One 15w-50 but
has used the 5w-30 and 0w-30 in the past.

Engine has about 142,000 miles on it.

I did the compression test because about 3000 miles ago my 2nd catalytic
converter plugged and created excessive exhaust backpressure - so much so that
the truck would not go above about 25 mph for the 8 miles it took to get to
the muffler shop. This excessive backpressure ruined the EGR modulating valve
diaphram, which was replaced, as was the O2 sensor.

I was worried I might have burned an exhaust valve.

The engine has been running 'ok' but seems to get slightly less mpg than
before.

I changed 2000 miles ago to NGK NGK ZFR5F11 (stock number 2262) just after the
bad cat, and the engine idle seems more uneven. Previous plugs were Autolite
3923.

In the figures that follow, 'Oil Added' means a squirt of Mobil One Gear Oil
75w-90 was put in the cylinder using a rubber hose on the end of the gear oil
bottle. The engine was cranked 5 revolutions and then the compression on that
cylinder was read again. It would have been better to have used a plunger
style oil can and put a consistent 3 shots into the cylinder. It might be
possible that the 'Oil Added' compression psi's are not consistent because the
amount of gear oil varied.

Engine was cool from sitting overnight.
Outside air 75 degrees.
Throttle bores were propped wide open during cranking.
All sparkplugs were removed.
Readings were taken on the 5th stroke and the compression tester had a
'shraeder valve' that held pressure on the gauge until pressed. Typical first
stroke compression numbers were around 100 psi and climbed to steady maximum
shown below by the 4th stroke.

Results:

Cylinder 1 - dry 145psi - oil added 175
Cylinder 2 - dry 145psi - oil added 165

Cylinder 3 - dry 150psi - oil added 185
Cylinder 4 - dry 155psi - oil added 185

Cylinder 5 - dry 155psi - oil added 180
Cylinder 6 - dry 150psi - oil added 170

Cylinder 7 - dry 160psi - oil added 175
Cylinder 8 - dry 148psi - oil added 165

Average dry: 151 psi
( # 7 is 6% high, # 8 is 2% low)

Average Oil Added: 175 psi
(#3&4 are 6% high, #2&8 are 6% low)

Additional information:
All 8 NGK sparkplugs looked clean after 2000 miles of mostly interstate
driving and had extremely white insulators on the relatively long 'projected
tips' of this design plug. Cylinder 6 had just bit different looking deposits
on the ground strap electrode - the other 7 plugs grounds looked normal 'dry
flaky' and this one looked slightly 'greasy'. When I changed out Cylinder 6
on the Autolite 3923's used previously cylinder 6's white insulator had more
black carbon deposits on it and looked just a bit oily. At the time I took
this to be because I had just sprayed a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber
Conditioner into the engine.

Engine does not seem to be using any coolant. Oil consumption is about 1
quart every 2000-3000 miles and there are slow drips from both front and rear
engine crankshaft seals.

Cylinder 7 may have more carbon deposits. I had previously found some time
ago that spraying Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner in cylinder pairs 7&8
got rid of pinging temporarily, maybe the problem is just cylinder #7.

The 1995 Ram FSM is not too helpful on what 'proper' compression readings
should be - it just says 100 psi on page 9-108 of my model year 1995 book.

This 100 psi seems to me like a 'cop out' number from DC listed to counter
angry customers who have a low reading cylinder. Or perhaps it is an
unchanged 'carry over' spec from 1978-1984 LA 360 V8s that had only 8 to 1
compression?

This 360 V8 engine is supposed to have a 9.1 to 1 compression ratio, as listed
on FSM page 9-81. {I hear later model 1996+ 5.9V8s were lowered to 8.9 to 1
compression ratio because of numerous owner pinging complaints.

On page 9-142 the 1995 FSM says the 1995 8.0L V10 with 8.4 to 1 compression
ratio is supposed to have 170-190 psi compression test numbers. Go figure?




 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

I recently bought my 2001 1500 Quad Cab 5.2 L. (about 2 weeks ago). A few days after my purchase the enginebegan running slightly rough and then my CK ENG light popped on. In checking I found it had a cyl. #6 misfire code. Had planned on replacing spark plugs - wires - cap -rotor anyway so ran compression test. I found that all other cylinders popped up to approximately 120 psi on the first couple of cranks and then were up to about 170 - 180 by the 4th. or 5th. Unfortunately cyl. #6 was at 80 - 90 psi after a couple of cranks and only got up to about 120 psi. max after 4 or 5 cranks. In other words : the cylinder was still working but not nearly as strong as the other cylinders. Long story short : pulled heads and found small crack in cyl. 6. Replaced both heads with new heads and now runs great. Cost about $900 for all parts : did the work myself and the guy I bought the truck from helped pay for the repair.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:56 PM
  #8  
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

Talk about thread mining! Caught the date on this one though before reading through the whole thing AGAIN!
I wish people would post anew with a quote from the search area that they found their answer in.

 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #9  
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

I apologize for the thread mining : am brand new to this. But the info could still be useful to someone even if it is an old post.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 09:59 PM
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Default RE: Misfire Conundrum

i enjoyed reading it all again. since i have CRS it was like a whole new thread
 
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