ryan... yea ive used a heavy duty seliniod to isolate 2 batterys before on really big installs... ive also seen them burn up before too.(have no clue why)..i have a 100amp to kick on and off the fans right now..in on of the pics you might be able to see the top ... garbagecan lid looking thing i might tango with the idea of adding a battery... id like to go to redtops ... them are wicked nice...i dont wanna take up room in the bay for a 2nd battery nor do i want to do that in the bed either... up under the truck might be where im wanting to go... ill work up the numbers and see ... im gonna do a amp draw test to get solid numbers from the fans ... i have no clue what the cfm is on the stocker viscous fan... i know im pulling more air then before but just feeling it when the fans kick on... ... they actually sucked out some crap i had stuck in the rad that i didnt know about... if i can find the same batt that i got now i might throw a batt pan/case and see where i can mount it with the extra metal i got laying around the garage..

socha- i know righT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dude i was thinking 3 days tops!!!!!!! bullsh*TTT!!!!!! 6days later and just enough time to take the wife to the olive garden (as promised for helping me..shes my tool/parts chick...hehehehe) last night before they closed... ididnt mod the plenum b/c it was my first time diving into the intake ... i need to get a few more tools to be able to mod the intake manifold correctly .. so i dont botch it all up... maybe the summer time... cutting the runners would be ideal for me sinc i got a reg cab short bed and considerably lighter then your guy's heavy CQ's ... ill prolly do it this summer when i got off of school and nothing to do except work on it!!!

mopower... my uncle ironically said the same thing.. it makes sense having to fill the motor first but if you think about it... id either A: have to run the truck up to operating temp to open the tstat then pour it in... OR B: take that houseing and stat out all together and try filling it there...im gonna keep burping it like i am now and if i dont see an improvment then ill try what you suggested... the haynes said to just fill the rad start the truck and wait till the tstat opens then fill it up the rest of the way...thats what i did .. who knows... the merry christmas manual is much better and gonna refer to that tos ee what it says...

crunched the numbers this afternoon..this is what i came up with (not counting what i have to send back to summit and edelbrock... rusted headers that i replaced while i was at it)

plenum fix from hughes: 135 shipped
MSD 6A box, Blaster3 Coil, MSD 32189 Wires, Accel Harness, hypertech t-stat :::all from summit:: 325 shipped
Dual 16" fans from ebay (posted above) 98 shipped
100amp constant duty seliniod from napa: 60
Flex-A-Lite temp control unit from ebay 30 shipped
12ft of inch by inch angle and a sheat of 5'X3' metal from a local shop 20
various bolts and odds and ends (a little big of wiring loctite cutting blades etc etc) 100

grand total 708,,,, actually 750 if you count in the beer and chew i went through the whole week... lol!!!

so yea.. a little more then what i wanted...time invested and money spent but i had a blast doing it... ive ben peicing the parts together for a bit too so it wasnt all at once wam bam hit on the ole acount ...

 

Looks good to me Shott! I also wonder if two of those bigass fans are a little overkill......Ryan has a good point, if we could find out what the cfm pull of the stock fan is - maybe some of us with the stock alternator could go the electric fan route also. Yours looks awesome though. If I read correctly, you said the frame you built mounts solid to the frame rails. If so - I would suggest you really watch the fan frame for signs of cracking and rubbing on the radiator itsself. My concern would be that the tape you used might rub through quickly, or that something might flex and puncture the radiator while offroading. I guess what i'm trying to say is that "damn solid" might create a problem in a frame flexing situation......Just an opinion since I can't actually go and see for myself. I'm thinking about the Blaster coil myself since I have the wires already......The rest of all that wiring stuff you are talking about is too intimidating for me...[sm=outcold.gif]

 

could you possabley do a how to on the wirring of your msd stuff im thinking of changing mine out this summer (im getting a big list of summer stuff to do lol) but dont really know where to start on that stuff

 

$750's quite alot! But you did a crap load of stuff to. I don't blame you for not touching the keg, its gonna be interesting when I do it. I think I'll have the needed tools though, and if I don;t I can always go barrow them from the local high school auto shop. I'm know the guy thats the teacher and hes cool with me barrowing stuff. But I'm gonna use a regular cut off tool to take the runners down then some of ther little sanding bits to make it smooth as Steve recomended. But I still have to get ahole of hime and ask what I need to open the injector ports. Or maybe he'll just see this post and answer it for me

Another question. What the hell is that MSD 6A block thing for? I ovbiously know the wires, cap, rotor, and coil are for. But the box and wiring harness I'm at a loss! What the hell is it for?!

 

yea... i got a 90deg grinder with a cutting wheel on it... what really would help is a good air compresser and an air powered grinder/cuting wheel.. smaller and easier to control... my compressor is wicked tiny and doesnt even turn my impact wrench..let alone only geting 4 revolutions off of my airsocket wrench... lol...

the 6A box is a control box that converts your standard 1pulse spark into multiple spark ... meaning Multiple Spark Disharge. its timed so everytime your spark plug gets hit with voltage it actually sparks 3 times during one firing revolution instead of just once... so in one motor revolution (1rpm) instead of all the plugs getting fired once for a total of 8 sparks for one revolution... they get fired three times for a total of 24 times per one motor revolution... cool huh? saposed to get better burn for your fuel.. test show that the emisions results are lower then with out it witch would be an indication of a more complete combustion...i really dont have to worry about emmisions in my part of ny... really smoothed out my ruff idle and damn that thing starts up all sorts of wicked quick!!!... just tap the key and WAM shes puring...

next on the list is a TB and some 1.7 RR's and ill be done...i think

 

ill start ona DIY for the MSD install... wasnt hard at all after i sat there and thought about it!!!

racin i thought about that too and was worried about it rubbin on the soft alum rad... im watching out for it and if i really need to i can space the frame off the rad like a 1/16th or 1/8th to get it clearence...it pulls so hard i dont see it having to have a air tight seal around the rad... ill prolly mod it this weekend ... i gotta work on the washer resevior anyway.. im really looking around for some weather striping that is light in weight (not wicked thick like door weahter stripping) so i can line the edge of the frame like i did with the elec tape... i hate cutting corners!

 

well after looking for the last hour for some info on the fan output i gove up and sent dodge an email so well see if i get a responce, i sent it to the same adress as i did for the buld list for my truck and i got a pritty quick responce from then so well see what they say

 

Nice install job on the Fans... they look awesome. One thing i'd suggest is separate controllers for the fans... 1 setup on the radiator input side and one on the output. Hook the temp sensors on both and have the controllers kick each one on individually. that way the only time the 2nd fan kicks on is when the 1st one isnt dropping the temps enough. Then you could maybe you might not need the a/c relay setup... not 100% sure how that would work but it sounds pretty good...

Shott... you never mentioned that your fan clutch was shot... that right there will kill your milage.

I didnt read all of the posts but one thing stood out... the pvc should be connected to the intake so the only way to filter out the oil would be to put a some sort of filter in-line with the intake manifold connection. if anyone does this, make sure your getting enough vacuum to the motor.


I got a new Summit catalog in the mail and they now have a fan shroud that you can buy for up to 2 12" fans. I may go that route if I can find the right 12" for the dual setups. I figure I need at least 4k cfm max flow, more would be better but I think the viper fan setup is around 4k or so... Otherwise, it'll be the Flex-a-lite dual 15"s that pull 5000 cfm... at $370 it's hella expensive.

 

oh yea...hey steve.. my fan clutch is shot... LOL

yea me and ryan were talkin about having 2 seperate temp sensor switches controlling each fan by itself and in the even the first fan cant cool the incoming coolant enough the second fan would kick on to help cool the outgoing coolant...and essentially never kicking on together at the same time... im prolly gonna go this route..but like i said above the real test will be this summer... i really have to try hard to get the fans to kick on and when they do .. i cant keep them going for longer then 10 seconds .. they cool that motor off super wicked quick..i think i did overkill on the 5000 CFM.. i prolly could have gotten away with 3500 or 4000 CFM since i dont tow much ... but if i have to the extra air movement will be there if i need it... if i run into problems htis summer with them drawin toooo much power ill have to go to a seperate activated system like we were talkin about above..

yea i took that fan clutch off and tried to spin it..no dice... put in the bench vise (by the large nut on the end) and use a RBFH to get it to break free... aint no way in saving that thing!!!!

theres aLOT of chit chat about the elec fans over at pavementsucks.com and alot of them guys like to use the old for taurus or the lincoln mark VIII fans b/c they pull ALOT of air and have different speed settings...

DING DING DING... got another idea... if i could wire the temp control unit into a self verying speed control unit based off a timing modual then i could have the fans kick on at like a 1/4 of the there max speed then slowley speed up only if need to be... that owuld be a fun wiring project!!!

first thing first is this weekend i have to shim that fan frame/support to get it off the rad so i dont wear a hole through it and try to find some kind of lining rubber meterial , better then elec tape, to line the rim the of the frame support. after that i can monkey with the wiring...i also have to wire in some diodes to drain the current generated by the freemovment of the fans so that current doesnt go back into my relay and temp control unit and start frying stuff...

another thing im tackling is burping that damn coolant system... the t-stat is opening in verious temps .. witch tells me either i got a hige air pocket somewhere inthere or i got a defective t-stat ...today at idel the temp gauge almost reached close to 210 before the stat even opened but as soon as it did the fans kicked on full blast and were only on for 7 seconds (i timed it) and they shut off and the temp guage when WAY down...where it shouldbe.

the pcv thing ... mopower is actually going to put an inline filter .. he's got pictures in his thread about the vavlecovers..

as of right now my mileage is crappy as hell... doesnt it take a while for the computer to learn the new op temp is around 180ish instead of the noraml 195 .. so it stops dumping the extra gas in the injectors becuase its trying to warm up the motor?

 

hmmm verying speed fans now there is an idea all thow you half to watch some moters arnt made to run at diffrent speeds (thow youd think a fan moter would) and it will burn them up fairley quickley, but that would solve the high amprage on start up deffanatley somthinig to look into let me know what you find

as for something to seal your fan better than eletrical tape at work we have foam molding that is kind of in a u-shape to go over the edge and seal cabnents i think that would work good for you, if i unserstand your pics right. i will get a pic of it so you know what im taking about im horable at trying to explane things lol

now for the air pocket did you drill a tiny hole in the t-stat before putting it in? i find it helps let air through so you dont get a pocket under it keeping from opening i think steve00ram360 has talked about this before too