Cam replacement...easy or hard.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Bett-neee
RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
np on the cam removal ...
glad your getting close to figuring it out without tearing down all that way... its fun but if you aint gotta do it... obviously that would be nice...
yea buying more beer is always the best solution to any problem !!!!!
id give that sensor a wreckoning with a few cans of TB cleaner..if it still acts up a bit it just may be bad and time to get a new one...
glad your getting close to figuring it out without tearing down all that way... its fun but if you aint gotta do it... obviously that would be nice...
yea buying more beer is always the best solution to any problem !!!!!
id give that sensor a wreckoning with a few cans of TB cleaner..if it still acts up a bit it just may be bad and time to get a new one...
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: United States
RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
Ok, what it sounds like to me is the ECM is wigging out from the cam. Granted that is a small cam but there is alot in that profile that you didn't tell us like how many degrees of advance are ground into it ect ect. I have had a LS1 that I did a cam swap on that did this. I'm not certain if the holley TB that Dodge uses on that motor has a set screw for the TB. If it does open the TB alittle with the set screw and leave it like that. You need to have the IAC to control the idle with the thing in drive but open it just enough to let it run. Plug the IAC back in and see where you are sitting. The computer calculates the idle off about a dozen sensors and a cam is gonna screw with the calibration of every single one. The vacuum of a motor with a cam isn't gonna be the same as that of a stockish type cam. So your Map sensor is probiably reading way wigged out. It needs more air that the computer probiably wants to supply. That's why it ran ok with the IAC unplugged. Not sure about Dodges but it sounds like the IAC doesn't return to home position unless the ECM tells it to. If you don't have a set screw to open the TB alittle I might think about adding one somehow.
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RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
Where is the set screw located if there is one? My vaccum sits at 12 hg at idle (1000 rpm). I have heard about drilling out the air holes on camero tb to make them a little bigger when a cam is installed so I think you are pointing me in the same direction. more air should equal smother idle in this situation.
shott hahaha yah thats my plan to drown it with carb cleaner. the IAC is only 2 weeks old (and I actually allready replaced one b4 because I thought it was faulty and it was on warrenty still hehe)
shott hahaha yah thats my plan to drown it with carb cleaner. the IAC is only 2 weeks old (and I actually allready replaced one b4 because I thought it was faulty and it was on warrenty still hehe)
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From: United States
RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
ORIGINAL: dflyboy
Where is the set screw located if there is one? My vaccum sits at 12 hg at idle (1000 rpm). I have heard about drilling out the air holes on camero tb to make them a little bigger when a cam is installed so I think you are pointing me in the same direction. more air should equal smother idle in this situation.
shott hahaha yah thats my plan to drown it with carb cleaner. the IAC is only 2 weeks old (and I actually allready replaced one b4 because I thought it was faulty and it was on warrenty still hehe)
Where is the set screw located if there is one? My vaccum sits at 12 hg at idle (1000 rpm). I have heard about drilling out the air holes on camero tb to make them a little bigger when a cam is installed so I think you are pointing me in the same direction. more air should equal smother idle in this situation.
shott hahaha yah thats my plan to drown it with carb cleaner. the IAC is only 2 weeks old (and I actually allready replaced one b4 because I thought it was faulty and it was on warrenty still hehe)
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RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
allrighty I didnt spary tb cleaner in the port hole (doh) like i should of so I am going to go and get some and do that. I will look for the set screw, and call up a friend and see if he knows where or if there is a set screw. We'll rig up somthing to make er run. Thanks. And I will get back with results later today. (cross your fingers) hahaha
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RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
The set screw is on the passenger side of the tb covered by a small cap. You will need to pry that cap out to adjust it. make sure while you are adjusting it you only turn the screw about an 1/8 of a turn at a time because the computer has to have time to catch up.
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RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
Well I took my tb off to clean it and the IAC port was totally clean, but for good measure I cleaned it all up anyways. We increased the idle up and left the IAC unplugged so that it will stay running at idle. BUT if it aint one thing its another. I have a serious predetonation problem. Its horrable when i put a load on my engine while im driving. I put higher octane fuel in it today, but its so severe that I know that wont help or stop it. My question now is is it because of the cam? would that cause that bad of a detonation problem? I thought it would have to be distributor timing but If i turn it anywhere else it just dies. the cap screws are at 3 and 9 on the cap. I also have a miss only sometimes when im driving down the road.
We looked up the cam info again today at the shop and it said for a 360 no computer mods needed, but for a 318 computer mods needed. Now my original engine was a 318 and i upgraded to a 360. do i need to change my computer out to a 360? All the sensors stay the same and the computer should ajust to the fuel\air ratio on its own I think. gonna give comp cams a call tomorrow and ask. Well if you have any insight let me know thanx.
We looked up the cam info again today at the shop and it said for a 360 no computer mods needed, but for a 318 computer mods needed. Now my original engine was a 318 and i upgraded to a 360. do i need to change my computer out to a 360? All the sensors stay the same and the computer should ajust to the fuel\air ratio on its own I think. gonna give comp cams a call tomorrow and ask. Well if you have any insight let me know thanx.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Nashville, TN
RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
ORIGINAL: dflyboy
Well I took my tb off to clean it and the IAC port was totally clean, but for good measure I cleaned it all up anyways. We increased the idle up and left the IAC unplugged so that it will stay running at idle. BUT if it aint one thing its another. I have a serious predetonation problem. Its horrable when i put a load on my engine while im driving. I put higher octane fuel in it today, but its so severe that I know that wont help or stop it. My question now is is it because of the cam? would that cause that bad of a detonation problem? I thought it would have to be distributor timing but If i turn it anywhere else it just dies. the cap screws are at 3 and 9 on the cap. I also have a miss only sometimes when im driving down the road.
We looked up the cam info again today at the shop and it said for a 360 no computer mods needed, but for a 318 computer mods needed. Now my original engine was a 318 and i upgraded to a 360. do i need to change my computer out to a 360? All the sensors stay the same and the computer should ajust to the fuel\air ratio on its own I think. gonna give comp cams a call tomorrow and ask. Well if you have any insight let me know thanx.
Well I took my tb off to clean it and the IAC port was totally clean, but for good measure I cleaned it all up anyways. We increased the idle up and left the IAC unplugged so that it will stay running at idle. BUT if it aint one thing its another. I have a serious predetonation problem. Its horrable when i put a load on my engine while im driving. I put higher octane fuel in it today, but its so severe that I know that wont help or stop it. My question now is is it because of the cam? would that cause that bad of a detonation problem? I thought it would have to be distributor timing but If i turn it anywhere else it just dies. the cap screws are at 3 and 9 on the cap. I also have a miss only sometimes when im driving down the road.
We looked up the cam info again today at the shop and it said for a 360 no computer mods needed, but for a 318 computer mods needed. Now my original engine was a 318 and i upgraded to a 360. do i need to change my computer out to a 360? All the sensors stay the same and the computer should ajust to the fuel\air ratio on its own I think. gonna give comp cams a call tomorrow and ask. Well if you have any insight let me know thanx.
I may be wrong but I believe thats the problem... Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
Joined: May 2004
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From: Bett-neee
RE: Cam replacement...easy or hard.
yea i can imagine having the wrong PCM for the motor could cause some problems... now have you just gotten this motor and cam work done and troubleshooting the problems? or was it running fine before then all of a sudden started? it would be really wierd if you swapped motors and it was running fine then just started to act up... only thing i can think of is the PCM is giving the motor bad commands (ie injectors and timing for the dist) and just a heads up..the ignition system and timing system on these motors are almost entirely electrionic...they arnt like the old chevy motors where u can advance the timing by twisting the distributer...
it wouldnt be a bad idea to take a trip tot he wreckin yard and scope around for a ram with a 360 pcm... im not sure how the VIN numbers are dealt with.... if you score a new PCM i think youd have to take the truck and the oldPCM to the local dealership to have the new PCM flashed with your VIN and your mileage count...
it wouldnt be a bad idea to take a trip tot he wreckin yard and scope around for a ram with a 360 pcm... im not sure how the VIN numbers are dealt with.... if you score a new PCM i think youd have to take the truck and the oldPCM to the local dealership to have the new PCM flashed with your VIN and your mileage count...