well ive been having a lot of problems with my truck not running right. its been in and out of shops for a month (mostly in) and more then 1000 bucks later it still dies on me at idle. My truck has a comp cam in it and the dealership says it is too agressive and with it not being stock they cant pinpoint any other problems because they dont have the right refrence to start with. My question is how hard will it be for me to replace it back to my stock one. will I have to remove my rad to do it? any help would be wonderful. thanks.

 

u might be able to get it out with taking out the rad...but correct me if im wrong but youll have to drain the coolant down enough to tear down past the water pump... and thatll require draining of the coolant... i take it you didnt put in the cam yourself? either way the rad comes out easy... a few bolts and comes out .. obviously taking off the fan shroud and hoses ... pretty extensive work to take out the cam... tear down far enough to be able to take out the lifters and pushrods.... and everything will have to come off the front of the motor and get past the t-chain... defenatly save you a butt ton load of revenue to DIY... nice weekend project requiring massive amounts of marlboros and labbat blues (for us north eastern folk... budwieser to everyone else) goodluck.. and keep us posted!!!!!

 

Im not too worried about taking off the rad.I would like to do it and not have to get my dang ac recharged again. I do live in Edmonton Alberta so I dont have to worry about the heat for a bit haha but.... you know, save some $ if I can.

 

i hear ya brother... and you know a thing or two about some labbatts then huh? ole' blue has gotten me through alot of headache causing mods...

anyway... i think if you just take out the rad and leave the a/c condensor in and mounted ... and with everything off the truck im pretty sure youll have plenty of room... and you could always unbolt the motor mounts and jack the the engine a LITTLE bit in either direction to give you a few inches of clearence.....ive done that a few times swapping cams in a 350 me and my stupid friends slammed into an S10 in highschool...talk about a PITA...

anyway..yea id yank off everything except the a/c cooler... you could even unbolt that and move it out of the way and just leave the lines connected... with all of that factord in i dont see any clearence problems... nice thing about the engine bays in the 2gens is theres a LOT of room once the fan and shroud and the accesories and pullys are off! goodluck and have fun!

 

Just curious which cam you had? How did it idle?

Also, your problem with the cam is probably the computer. The computer probably is not able read the new a/f mixture and all that new stuff created by the cam. Did you have any computer adjustment done when you installed the cam? I have worked with mustangs alot, and I know by unhooking the battery for like 10 min. and letting it sit and cycle the key on or something will reset the computer, that way when you start it up, it will hopefully learn the new code and cam timing etc....that or you can take it to a tuner and Im sure they can "tune" it for what you want

 

Do you have stock lifters, rockers? I thought upgraded cams need diffrent lifters and rockers.

 

ok Shott that was the answer i was looking for. I also talked to the dealership and they said they would do it for 500 bucks. I can buy a lot of beer for that, but it would also save me the headache. I havent decieded yet what I am gonna do.

Black97sport It was a compcam. The specs are at work but I think it was 218 \218 lift duration 240 lift 240 exhaust and 114 degree lobe seperation...... I will get back to you on the actuals later. It is saposed to be well within spec but by the way its running im guessing not. The idle jumps all over the place in park and neutral. up to 1500 and down to stall. While driving it, it will stall when i come to a stop or dont have my foot on the pedel a little while its creeping along. I figure the computer is trying to relearn itself but just cant find the happy medium. The place that did the original install deals only with fuel injected vehicles (mostly mustangs and cameros) and he doesnt have the program to change my computer around, because there arnt any out there for dodge yet really, or so he say. He plans on getting one and If I dont change out my cam I will be his first customer haha.

Socha yes the stock ones are still in. From what I've been told its recomended to change them but not necessary. I asked that but was told it will be fine.

Well I will keep you all posted on my plans and thanks for the imput! I appreciate it guys. ttyl.

 

id try a different shop not a dealership everything is more expensive there

 

Maybe we can help you diagnose this problem and save you the trouble of removing the cam. I have a few questions for you. Is the check engine light on? If so what codes has it stored. Did this problem start before, right after, or sometime after the cam install? When was your last tune-up? When was the last time the throttle body was cleaned? Has the iac sensor on the back of the throttle body ever been cchanged? Has the tps sensor ever been changed? Has the front o2 sensor ever been changed? And do you still have the factory cat on your truck. All these could be the cause of your problem.

If the problem started right after the cam install check all of your spark plug wires and make sure they were routed correctly and they were put back on the cap correctly.

To check the front o2 sensor just unplug it. Your truck will run a little rich this way but won't harm anything.

The tps sensor you can check with a digital voltimeter. If I remember right the middle wire is the ground and the left wire is the positive watch the meter and see if the voltage fluctuates if it fluctuats more than .01 then it is going bad.

THe iac sensor is located on the back of the TB you can remove your TB and all the sensors and clean everything with carb cleaner. Be careful with the iac sensor because it is very delicate but the plunger tends to get filled with gunk and causes it to act up.


I hope this helps Good luck

 

I have the true cam #'s now. Advance Duration 264 intake, 270 Exhaust. Duration at .050 212 intake, 218 Exhaust. Valve lift 480 intake, 480 exhaust. Lobe seperation 114. Those are the true # right from the box.

Well heres my story. Turns out the key holding my cam gear in place jammed over where it shouldnt be so it was throwing my timing off a little. Dealership fixed that. MY front 02 sensor, distribotor cap, rotor, sparkplug wires, Map sensor, IAC were all changed within the last month and a half. we tested the TPS sensor and it was allright I believe, I dont remeber a fluctuation. there was no Check engine light on.

Ok heres the strange part now. I was tinkering with it today and found that it will Idle better... in fact almost perfect with my IAC not pluged in. with it pluged in my truck will stall at idle, without it my truck would idle normal.In fact we unpluged it increased my idle a little and I drove home, Idleing at lights and all just fine. I dont know if you guys got any ideas on this but Im going to get some cleaner tomorrow and spray the shiz outa where it sits in the manifold and see what happens when I plug it in.