This is some interesting info that was posted on another Dodge forum (to remain nameless) by an "expert". The poster (knowplay) is an ASE Mechanic and Dodge enthusiast. Here are some of the interesting tidbits. I left out other people questions and just put in the meat.:


"I have been reading alot of posts and answering quite a few questions on performance upgrades for the 2nd Gen Ram Magnum motor. During this, I have noticed alot of posts containing great ideas and some posts containing useless mods. I have tried my best on each one of those occasions to help as much as possible. Now, I have decided to write it all out at once in the hopes of helping more people at time. Hope this helps.

Ignition timing - Timing can't be changed on our motors in a conventional manner. Turning the distributor will have no effect other than to possibly set code and/or cause driveability problems. There is no plug or sensor you can disconnect to disable the electronic timing advance from the PCM. Here are your options for enhanced performance: Programmer or chip can advance base timing. Small resistors installed in place of certain sensors(IAT) will advance running timing. You can slot the mounting holes of the CKP (crank position sensor) on the bellhousing to allow the sensor to be moved side to side. This will advance the timing and is also a free mod. Move sensor in opposite direction of engine rotation to advance. Advancing the base timing four degrees is quite a bit and will do wonders for performance.

Increased air flow - Magnum motors are speed density motors. Unlike today's more modern Mass Air Flow (MAF/AFM) engines, speed density engines have no way to accurately measure the amount of incoming air into the cylinders. Speed density engines use a combination of readings from different sensors to give the PCM an idea of how much air is present. What does this mean to us? That means increased air flow without some type of PCM upgrade, will have little effect. The only effects seen from such mods are a result of freed horsepower that was lost due to "detuning" to meet certain DOT/Federal emissions criteria. You can increase the air flow and the potential for horsepower, but the PCM can't use it until it is made aware the extra air is present.Gasket matching, porting, bigger TB, larger port heads, larger valves, superchargers, cam swaps will all have limited effect until the PCM is upgraded thru the use of a new PCM, reflash or programmer.

Increased fuel flow - Increasing fuel flow by use of larger injectors will give you an end result similar to that listed above until a PCM upgrade is made. Larger injectors on an engine that can't support the flow can cause some driveability issues as well. Erratic idle, black smoke, hesitation along with many other issues can be caused by oversized injectors.

CAI myths - Cold air induction systems don't help in the manner thought. Most relocate the initial air inlet(end of the duct) into the engine bay. This translates into warmer air entering the duct. Even the stock air duct draws air from a fenderwell outside the engine bay. CAIs tend to help by straightening the path air travels into the TB, smoothing out the path and increasing duct diameter allowing more air to be available. Some CAIs have a provision for relocating the IAT away from the TB/engine allowing for a more accurate reading. I'll cover this more later.

Exhaust performance - I am not going to get into the backpressure debate in this thread. Just going to touch on the basics concerning exhaust performance. Upgraded exhaust DOES NOT make horsepower...the upgrades only free the potential hp that is already present. A more free flowing exhaust will allow the engine to expel the burnt gases faster which in turn makes the engine more efficient. This translates into the engine being able to take more advantage of it's ability to make horsepower. Exhaust that is too big or too small can wreak havoc on performance.

Engine temperature - Today's engines are made to operate within certain temp ranges. Anything outside the range over a period of time can cause problems. Engine lights, hestitation, poor fuel mileage and decreased power can all be a result from running an engine too cold. Also, if an engine run too cold for too long, engine life is drastically cut in the form of cylinder walls/piston rings being "washed" down from excessive fuel. Stick with stock temps on stock to mildly modded engines. If the temp is changed(cooler stat or larger radiator), then a PCM upgrade will be in order to avoid problems. The PCM will slightly increase timing and fuel/air ratio when the engine is cold in the hopes of decreasing warm-up time.

Relocating or "tricking" sensors - Every sensor on a magnum motor is there for a reason. The PCM will not react well if a sensor is removed or provides a reading out of it's operating range for any period of time. Being a speed density motor, the sensor readings are detrimental to proper operation. Now having said that, there are some exceptions. Relocating the Intake Air Temp(IAT) sensor farther away from the hot engine while still keeping it in the path of incoming air will provide more accurate air temp readings. This can call for increased performance. Moving the CKP to advance base engine timing is another acceptable sensor mod. The use of simulators on O2 sensors is advised against. The PCM depends heavily on accurate oxygen level readings to insure stoic(perfect 14.7:1) a/f ratio. Never use a sim on the forward most O2 sensors. These are used by the PCM to determine proper a/f ratios. If a sim must be used, then only on O2 sensors located after the cat. These sensors usually are only utilized by the PCM to insure proper cat operation. Also, steer clear of quick hp sensor mods such as the advertised 20+ hp mods sold on sites such as eBay. These basically just give false readings to the PCM by use of either the IAT connector or the ECT (engine coolant temp) connector. These mods fool the PCM into "thinking" the engine or incoming air is alot colder than actual temps. The PCM compensates by slightly increasing fuel flow and timing. Over time, this can reduce engine life noticeably.

Additives - Engine and fuel additives are marketed as wonders-in-a-bottle. They aren't. Some people have seen improvements from additives, but those instances are few and far between. Octane boosters can help as can continued use of fuel system cleaners, but only with limited results. Engine restorers my sound great and show some results, but are a disaster in the long run. Be safe and use only proper fluids/additives.

Ignition systems - Magnums being electronically control JTEC engines, ignition is very sensitive to change. Upgrading a stock engine to a performance ignition is basically a waste of money. OE ignition is adequate for stock. If timing, air/fuel or compression is upgraded significantly, then an ignition upgrade can be considered. If upgrading, use ONLY systems designed to intergrate with Dodge/JTEC computer systems. Anything else can cause electronic damage as well as damage the new ignition system. Moving to a stronger coil isn't called for until the above criteria have been met.

Electric fans - This is a great mod to free horsepower. Just a few points to remember. Make sure the fan has enough cfm flow to insure proper cooling. Also, if installing yourself, be careful not to puncture the radiator or a/c condensor. Always use proper gauge wiring with suggested size inline fuses.

Underdrive pulleys - Another great mod as long as certain points are remembered. Be sure pulleys aren't so underdriven as to effect normal driving. A waterpump pulley should still be able to drive the pump well enough to cool the engine with the a/c operating at maximum, high humidity and hot ambient temperatures. Use of an altenator pulley is okay as long as no large power drawing devices are present. If you utilize dual batteries, interior entertainment systems, multiple exterior/interior lights or a large audio system then avoid underdriving the altenator. Do not underdrive the powersteering by changing the PS pulley. This can be dangerous and wind up robbing more horsepower than it will free.

I'm sure I missed some aspects, but I will be adding to this as I can. Please post any results you have based on the information provided here as well as any thoughts/comments you have. Thanks for reading and as always...Hope this helps."

"Multiple reflashes shouldn't harm a PCM. The dealer can reflash a PCM, but not for performance. There are several companies that can give you a custom flash for your stock PCM. I personally prefer a programmer for mildly modded engines. Custom flashes are more for heavily modded engines or forced induction. If you plan on slowly upgrading, I suggest either a programmer or a Mopar Performance PCM. Hope this helps."
"Hypertech and Superchips have a great reputation amongst the magnum motored crowd. Hypertech has been established for a long time and provides quality products. Just research the features each programmer has and the features you need. Mopar Performance PCMs are available thru Chrysler dealers. The Mopar PCM intergrates well into mildly modded engines, but is limited to it's programming. A programmer offers more adjustability so thus can be more useful as you upgrade over time.Also, the programmers tend to be cheaper than the Mopar PCM. Hope this helps."

"Moving the crank sensor is in essence the same as twisting the distributor on an older vehicle. It's all but impossible for the PCM to override the physical timing advance. As far as using a programmer in conjunction with the crank sensor mod, I don't believe you'll see a problem. Just run higher octane(premium) gas and be sure to listen for excessive clatter. Timing too high will cause pre-detonation many refer to as valve clatter. If this happens, just back the crank sensor up until you reach a happy medium. Most programmers just change the amount of timing advance for given rpms. Moving the crank sensor advances base timing. I think as long as timing isn't set too high, the two should work well together.

Ignition wires are a subject of debate in many performance circles. For a stock engine with no plans for upgrade, OE (Mopar) wires are fine or some of the lessor expensive performance aftermarket sets. If you plan to upgrade other aspects of the engine, then go ahead and spend the money now on a good set of hp wires. Just remember, wires wear depending on use and environment. Daily drivers and offroaders will wear out a set of wires alot faster than a race-only vehicle. MSD, Taylor, Mallory and many others make very good aftermarket wires. I personally like and use Taylors, but the other major brands are just as good. Just don't overbuy on wires...don't spend too much for an awesome set of wires for a daily driver knowing you might have to replace them in a year of two.

For a stock engine with a stock PCM, a 180* stat is about as cold as you wanna go. As long as the engine can reach normal operating temps(around 210*), then mileage should not be affected. Using a 160* without a PCM upgrade can cause engine to run rich due to not reaching normal temp ranges.

OBDI computer systems can be a nightmare...or a blessing. OBDI is alot more simplystic compared to the control and amount of info gathered by an OBDII system. This means less small tricks as far as the electronics go, but allows for more "old school" mods. OBDI speed density engines will benefit more from porting than an OBDII speed density will. OBDI relies more on temp and O2 readings where as OBDII uses those readings along with map sensor, cam position and iat to adjust a/f ratio. A Mopar PCM is a great upgrade for an OBDI modded motor. The other options for an OBDI pcm upgrade is a custom flash or a piggy-back chip such as those from Jet. You can also check with Jet about a custom flash.

My mods are fairly simple, but I researched what would work well together given the design of the magnum engine. Here's a list:

crank sensor mod
MSD 6AL with Taylor 9mm wires
Autolite plugs - 2 ranges colder - electrodes filed and plugs indexed
March underdrive pulleys
Electric fans - one large fan pulling and a small fan on the front pushing to help the a/c
K&N drop-in filter
iat relocated
stock exhaust manifolds - they seem to flow plenty
single exhaust dumped 2' past convertor with no muffler

That takes care of the more simple mods. Now for the heavier mods:
stock block that has been deburred and line honed
custom splayed main caps - in case I ever decide to spray or boost it
stock crank - has been deburred, polished, balanced and knife-edged
stock rods - deburred, polished and weight matched with ARP bolts
Comp roller cam - sorry but grind is my secret
Comp roller rockers - bought a set of the SBC rockers and just added studs to my heads
stock heads - alot of work done to them...deburred, polished, ported, pocket porting of the chambers, larger valves, double springs, titanium keepers, guide plates, 7/16" screw in studs
pistons - another secret that I might share with everyone one day, but comp ratio is around 10:1
stock intake - alot of porting done
stock tb - ported with larger plates and shaved screws
stock nv3500 5sp with custom short throw shifter
stock rearend and yes with the stock 3:55s - I use alot shorter tire to get the final drive ratio I want
My truck has been lightened alot and has some custom suspension work. I have tried to lighten any rotating mass on the truck.
The interior is almost stock with the 40/20/40 seat and full bench in the rear. Two 10s in a custom fiberglass box under the rear seat. Some '94-'97 trucks came without a tach and I have never added one. Stock gauges.

The reason I have done so much work using stock parts is I did almost all of it myself. All the deburring, porting, polishing. Took stock main caps and drilled them myself for the splay bolts. Also weight matched the rods myself. Some custom grinding has been done to the pistons, part of which was done by me. I had an excess of aftermarket parts as I also build and race a Mustang. I had plenty of stock magnum motor parts from the cores of engine swaps at work. Some of the parts I listed weren't designed for the magnum engined ram trucks or for anything Chrysler for that matter. If I couldn't find the part for a Dodge, I made it. The shifter is from a Chevy with a NV3500. Roller rockers are for a small block Chevy(SBC). Chevy valves in the heads.
There is other smaller stuff and I'm sure I have forgotten alot."

 

That's a good read and interesting. I made it all the way through unlike some of the other "lengthy posts" I have seen. I am not a ASE mechanic, but I disagree with three points. Increased air flow- either his statement in regards to this is wrong or everybody on here that has ever raved about the Fastman TB is crazy. Ignitions- it is not really clear whether he is talking about a bigger coil or what, but, even though the wife says I am crazy, I know I am not, and I could tell a difference from the MSD box I installed on my truck. The CAI- even though you are no longer getting air from the fender, nor is the filter getting heat soaked sittin on top of the motor. That, and with the heat shield and the little rubber flap removed, I believe it makes a difference in city driving. It may be neglible during highway driving though.

 

I don't like to argue with an ASE mechanic that likely knows a lot more then I do, but I also disagreed with the same points you did, for basically the same reasons you stated (I don't have an MSD ignition though, so can't say for sure on that one). I also think his statement that upgraded exhaust does not make hp, but rather frees up hp that is already present is just getting into semantics. If it gives me HP, whether freeing up hp that is available, or making new hp, it still is a hp upgrade in my opinion.

Also, everything I have read about the OBD-II PCMs says that it can adjust (both positively and negatively) to changes in things like airflow and fuel. He makes it sound like you need to reflash or reprogram your PCM before any upgarde will ever work, including air flow upgrades. If that were the case, then it's like you said, why did my Fastman TB and CAI make such a noticable difference since I hadn't even touched my PCM yet? I guess it does explain why some people who get a programmer say they didn't notice much change, while others say it gave them a noticable change. The ones with the noticable change probably also have things like CAI and bored out TB's that are beneficial to the programmers new settings.

 

ASE mechanic doesnt mean hes an expert on Magnum performance.

He suggested a JET chip (POS)
His airflow statements are pretty funny considering I ran 12.91 et with a stock computer, cai, 52mm tb, m1, rt+10 cam, 1.7rr and 24lb injectors with the Procharger feeding 7.5psi of boost.
IAT relocation, track testing I did years ago, no benefit at all. Tried 2 other locations with the same results as stock regardless of letting the computer learn or reseting pcm before passes.
Electric fans are at the bottom of the list as far as bang for the buck goes.
Dealer cant add a performance reflash?? Guess he never heard of B&G Chrysler then. The best flash available is from a dealer.

 

I think he is a Chrysler mechanic, so he does seem to know about Magnums (at least some of his other posts indicated so). Still, I prefer to take tips from people like you RM, and from guys like John Mercedes and Dan Arcand who build performance Magnums all the time and have tested just exactly how well various upgrades actaully work.

More often then not, I find that dealership mechanics seem to always push that you should just run everything stock, because that's the way it was designed, and that is the best way period.

 

I forgot that one, the B&G flash. That was one of the best mods I have done yet. Though it did sound like he suggests a computer mod everytime you change your spark plugs.

 

I thought the part about adjusting the crankshaft position sensor was interesting, I haven't read too much about that mod. I would just be worried that you could take it too far and have trouble getting it back to the proper adjustment. I'm not sure that it is like boring out the holes on the TPS, then shooting for a specified voltage.

I've read some of his other posts on the other forum, and he does seem pretty knowledgable. But Silver_Dodge is right, freeing up horsepower is the same as adding horsepower. Maybe its just the way he wrote it. Overall, I think it is a post worth keeping a link to, as he does answer some questions that get asked quite often.

 

Yes I have seen some of his other posts and agree he is very knowledgeable. Most of what he says is accurate, just a few statements got too me. I guess the "JET tip"set me off again.(7yrs later LOL) We maybe taking some of what he says out of context as well, the net can do that While I was surprised how well my 5.9 ran with a stock pcm, there is no denying, definetely would of run faster with a proper tune & no limiters.

Im hardly in the same league as Dan and John but thanks anyways lol. I do have a pretty good idea how to make a 96 fairly quick

 

Where is the CKP? I'm familiar with this mod on newer Mustangs, so I'm willing to try it. He mentioned the bellhousing, but I don't see it.

Ken

 

It ist located at the top of the block near the rear of the right cylinder head. Or so I read in the Dodge shop manual. From the picture, it looks like it is right behind the manifold, on the edge of the bell housing.