got my lift today and took a look through the instructions. doesn't look too bad. i'll probably be putting it on sometime in the next week or so. just wanted to see if anybody that has installed a body lift on thier 2nd gen has any advice on any particular point.

i was looking over a few key points, and i wanted to ask...should the shift linkage for the auto shift just pop right off the selector? i see the bottom has an adjust to remove it, but the top looks like it was just pressed in.

also, about how long did the entire install take?

 

im not sure on your questions.. but when you do get it installed let me know how your truck looks with a 6 inch on 33's.. i've been looking to get 35's soon and a 3 inch body lift but im really thinking about just getting the lift now

 

are you gonna take pics and do a writeup?

 

the shaft has a rubber piece over it and it presses in. It was kind of a pain to do because of lack of space. dont bother with the transfer case elongation. There is plenty of adjusment to slide it.

I did the whole thing by myself in 5 hours.

If I were you I would start spraying all of the body mount bolts with PB balst a few days ahead of install and keep apllying until install. You dont want to snap a body mount bolt. what a PITA to get out.

 

TAKE THE GAS TANK FILL HOSES OFF I forgot to and broke them, but they still work just fine and are still solid. Also the steerig shaft has to be cut and welded, and the steering linkage does.

Also take the back bumper brackets off and just move them up, new brackets are a waste of money!

 

cut and weld the steering shaft?! mine came with an extension, so i should be good?

 

Rad,

I am with Muddy Blue, Some pics and write up would be AWESOME! [sm=goodidea.gif]

I am sure many of us would love to see that, especially Before & After !

 

Mine has the steering extension also. Piece of cake. Did mine on the floor with a floor jack, couple of boards to place under floor for jacking and jack stands.
The wire loom at the top rear of the engine comp. has drops to the engine that get tight. I just cut a couple of the ty-raps in the center that hold it and let the loom drop under the rubber.
If you have been considering changing your antifreeze, would be a good time to do so. One of the drop brackets for the fan shroud ends up in front of the drain. No big deal, just an extra bolt and small bracket in the way when draining.
The front frame needed about 1/8 to 1/4 inch trimmed the front edge to get the front bumper to sit right. PortaBand works great.
My shifter is curved so I used the weld extension. It's under the shifter boot, so the weld doesn't show. Took it to a friend at the begining of the weekend and was ready by the time I was finishing up.
The shifter linkage has a nut for adjusting it at the rear of the fenderwell, can adjust from beside the truck. If you loosen it before lifting you might not need to pop the clip loose. Ram was right about the clip. It's the small pieces that can agravate the **** out of you.
The bed you can lift by hand, one side at a time, while someone puts the spacers in.
I agree with just re-drilling the rear bumper bolts. I just dropped the spare for sit down room and drilled the first one, tightened the bumper in place and drilled the second. Figured two was good. Use the reciever for towing, the bumper is just for standing on.
The full and add marks on the overflow for the radiator are now 3" higher than the marks.
The dealer told me the body and bed bolts torque to 60 ft.lbs. Might want to check yourself and see if you get the same answer.

Take your time, follow the instructions and it should go smooth.........

 

there is already a write up guys on PS

this is what I used when I did my install.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/bodylift.php

 

Mine came with an extension and 2 roll pins. The directions say to put the rolls pins in and weldl it, so I did. I'm sure you'd be okay not welding though.