First I wanted to say thanks for the help with my head gasket replacement...this is my first time getting this deep into a motor and so far it has gone pretty well and I have learned a lot.

Now that I am putting things together, I wanted to ask if I can spray some carb clean on the bottom of my fuel injectors before I re-install them??? Or should I just leave them alone?? I was told of someone here in town that has a pretty good rep of taking them apart and cleaning/rebuilding them for a pretty good price, but I am pushed for time being I need my truch running to get to work. So I though in the mean time, I could just clean them up from the outside....Or is this a bad idea...

Thx

 

since you have it apart already, yank off the fuel rail and clean it out with carb cleaner. gunk can build up in there and plug up the top of the injectors. If you can come up with a way to open the injector and force solvent thru it, that would be the best way of cleaning it.

otherwise, clean the rails , spray the tips as you mentioned and put it back together. once your up and running you can use a high concentration of chevron Techron FI cleaner or BK44 injector cleaner. put a bottle to about 10~12 gallons in the tank and drive it as low as you can. this will clean the injectors pretty well.

how did the piston tops look? was there much carbon buildup?

i should have mentioned earlier for you to clean the carbon off the tops of the pistons... [:@]

 

I am about to put the fuel injector back in and I will do as you suggest with cleaning the rails...then run the fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank.

The pistons looked pretty good, that I have much experience being this the first time I pulled the heads on a motor all my myself. Ther was not much carbon on the pistons.

The orginal problem with I was was heating up with bubbles in the coolant system, white smoke out the tail pipe and a sweat smell when idling. I did see much wrong with the head gasket but it was difficult to tell being it splits in 2 when I seperated it from the block. I did see that the inner cylinders looked "clean" as compared to the others...Hopefully I have put everything back together correctly and it will fix my problem.

Do you have any suggestion on how to flush out the motor with out connecting it to the radiator. I wanted to get any debris that might have fallen into the coolant channels when I was cleaning the block and the head. But I don't want this to go into the radaitor and clogg the radiator up. I was thinking about just trying to add water thought the upper hose and letting it drain though the lower hose. Not sure if this will accomplish what I want though.

So, after I have everything together, and oil and antifreeze added, do I just start it up???? Or is there anything special I have to do?? I was also going to run it for a day and then change the oil and filter. Any other suggestions??

 

Something else I forgot to ask....

The gasket kit I purchased came with exhaust manafold gaskets. My hanyes books states that the v-8 doesn't use any exhaust gasket...just steel on steel.

I have installed it on one side, is it OK to use. I wasn't sure if I would have heat issues or anything like that.

My thinking is it might quiet her down some???? Any issues with using this gaskets..this line up with no issues.

 

I don't know about that no gasket thing on the manifolds. My 5.9L had gaskets on the Exh. Manifolds when I tore it down and I put new ones on when I put everything back together. Besides, the manifold surfaces didn't appear to be machined to close enough tolerances to allow no gaskets. They were a bit too rough. Me personally, I'd rather put them on and probably need them versus not doing it and then finding out "DOH! Shoulda done that!".

 

as long as the surfaces are not dinged up you can go w/o a gasket. If there is a leak of any kind then you should add a gasket. having one on one side only will not cause a problem.

 

OK what else could be causing me to heat up???? I did the head gasket due to white smoke out the exhaust, bubbles in the coolant. After doing the head gasket the same thing is happenening?? The radation was flushed at a shop, the radiator cap was replaced, and the Thermostat was replaced also. I get a really good amount of water flow looking in the radaitor after the truck warms up to temp, so the water pumps seems to be working fine.

I heat up at freeway speeds and going up hills. I have not had time to look to see if the white smoke or bubbles have cleared. What else could I check and/or replace. I didn't have the head looked at but I did put a straight edge and it looked OK....

 

It is recommended that whenever the injectors are removed from either the intake or the fuel rail that the O-rings be replaced. Another way to clean the injectors is to get a sonic cleaner for cleaning jewelery, fill the basic with solvent, and run them though. I did that with mine. Here are some before/after pictures.

 

If it is just white smoke, it could just be residual coolant left in the exhaust from the original leak. If overheating is still happening
check to verify that the 1.)vtemp gauge is operating properly 2.) there is proper airflow across the radiator 3.) you have complete
coolant flow thru the engine (check for flow at heater core inlet - outlet). Also check thermostat to make sure it is operating properly.

 

After working on it for a while it seems like I have massive air in the system. After burring it several times, each time the coolant level at the radiator cap drops quite a bit. What is a reasonable time I should expect it to take to get all the air out??? Is there any special way that I need to do this????

Not sure you suggest to see if there is complete coolant flow though the engine...if I pull the line at the heater hose inlet will there not be coolant pumping there and just come pumping out??? The radiator seems to have good air flow, at least I can feel it putting my hand on the front of the air conditioner coils that sit in front of the radiator. What would be a good way of checking the temp gauge. This seems OK as well. While it is idling, if I give it gas, it will low slightly.

One think I am not sure off...shouldn't the radiator cap (which as already been replaced) bleed the air off into the overflow resoiver??? I have been doing all this with the cap off so being it is not pressurizeing this seems to be allowing the air to bleed off. Last night when it was overheated, during my test drive, the upper hose if just hard as a rock....it would seem that it should bleed off that pressure (after the 16PSI cap rating) into the overflow. I never see any bubbles in the overflow??

Thx again for everyones help