Thanks for all the good info on rears. Just went out and looked at the master cylinder resevoir and it looks pretty sizable. The only thing that might stop me from going the GM route is if those are partitions in there and not baffles. Can't really tell without taking it off and tipping it to one end. But once the wheel cylinders fill initially, it doesn't take that much more fluid to actuate them. As much as they take to fill at the start, I can top off the master cylinder to full.

Seriously ... as hard as I drive this thing ... I want as much braking under me as I can possibly get.


Oh ... and compare www.wholesalemopar.com to www.chryslerpartsdirect.com ... I think you'll like it better ... about 10% better.

 

Drums do a lot better than disk brakes though

If you're serious about a rear disk conversion, find a Dana 60 or 70 from an 01 or 02 3/4 ton Ram. Those trucks had rear disks. You'll have a stronger axle for wheeling and disk brakes. Problem is you'll have to live with the 8 lug pattern.

There probably are calipers and rotors that would work, but you'd need to mount them. Disks mount differently than drums.

 

Now there's a thought. Of course, I'll have to replace that squeeky little Dana 44 on the front, too. No great loss.

I like the way you think.

 

I agree with The Burning Rom.

It is well worth trying the rear drum upgrades
before spending big money on the discs.

Some years ago I remember a magazine (TruckTrend?)
interviewing the chief engineer of the Toyota Tundra design.
They asked why the Tundra had 'old fashioned' rear drum brakes.
The Toyota engineer replied that their testing had shown in a first time panic stop
that the drum brake stopped the truck shorter than the rear discs
and continued to give continued better stopping distances until the 3rd 'hot' stop.

Rear discs are probably better if you have to do a lot of steep downhill grade
braking with a heavy trailer behind you, but for most of us being able to stop
5-15 feet shorter in a panic stop with cold brakes is a better safety deal.

I have been driving my Ram for a bit over 190,000 miles
and twice I have had to do an all out panic stop
that brought me within 5 feet of the vehicle in front.

Here's an interesting link to a guy who installed Viper front brakes on a Durango:

http://tinyurl.com/p3t57

the fellow that helped him (Fred Goeske)
fix the continuing problems
seems to be a real brake expert
and has a website at:

http://www.wheeladapter.com/default.asp

 

Let's face the facts. is there anyone who can dispute that Dodge has never put a decent set of brake's on a truck. And if you cant dispute that, why would you ever consider upgrading crap with more crap?

 

They're decent brakes. They're the EXACT same brakes that GM uses on their trucks. In fact, the brakes that Dodge uses are manufactured by AC Delco

They just skimped...used 1 piston calipers instead of twin piston. Used smaller wheel cylinders when there were larger ones available. All things that were done to save MONEY...it's always the bottom line in business

 

not in mud. when you rip through a mud pit or large water puddle, all sorts of mud, grit, sand, dirt, etc make their way between the drums and the shoes. besides a terrible sounding squeal when lightly braking, your drums and shoe liners also get scored and can get very hot. one of my friends has had a drum almost seize because of the heat, causing fairly significant damage.

 

Let me tell ya about rear brake conversions. I purchased the full package from EGR brakes. I put the severe duty, slotted rotors all the way around. I made the mistake of assuming that EGR had researched their product fully. I was wrong. Im not saying there is anything wrong with their setup, it's just that there is a lot of mods you need to do to make to the truck's system to work properly. I will say on a positive note that their carbon/kevlar pads are wearing so well up front, that it's not funny. My pads have over 30,000 miles and more than half the meat left still.


Ok, continuing on. As you may or may not know, disc brakes are high pressure. Drum brakes are low pressure, but require more volume to expand the wheel cylinder. If you slap on a rear disc conversion, you will not get adequate braking in the rear due to several factors. The factory metering valve will only let so much pressure to the rear. Don't quote me but I believe the rears operate at 400 psi max. Your discs will require 1500 psi or better. The second problem in the equation is the antilock valve. The factory rear antilock valve is not rated for high line pressures. Also, there is always a residual pressure (around 2lbs) to the rears. The residual pressure is used to keep the shoes almost up against the drums. It's a confusing process. That factory metering/proportioning/safety valve is non adjustable.

Here's the solution. My FIRST modification was to loose the vacuum booster. I purchased the Vanco Brakes hydroboost system. It came with the hydroboost, the lines, a NEW power steering pump for my CTD, and a 7 inch old style, cast GM master cylinder with a 1 5/16 bore. I know the bore is large, but there is a reason. If you stay with a 1, 1 1/16, 1 1/8 bores, all will work, but with a hydroboost, you will develope SUPER high line pressure. High pressure doesn't hurt, but in a panic situation, the calipers can flex to the breaking point. It takes a lot of effort, but I am a big guy with too much leg power...lol.

The EGR kit install was pretty easy. All the parts are included. I changed all 5 factory rubber lines to stainless steel. Now, here is the solution to Ram brakes.


Remove the factory metering/proportioning valve. Toss is out. If you wish to retain the "safety" part of the valve, you will have to purchase a new one that does not have the proportioning valve integrated in it. I elected not to reinstall one. If I ever lost line pressure, I'd simply slam on the emergency brake cable. Remove the antilock valve and toss that too. You will now "live line" your brake system. From the master cylinder to the FRONT brakes, you will plumb the lines directly. From the master cylinder to the REAR brakes, you MUST install a proportioning valve. If you live lined your rears with no valve, the *** end would lock up almost as soon as your foot touched the brake pedal.

I installed my valve in the cab of the truck so I can adjust it as needed. I add more rear brake with a load, and I dial down the rear brakes
when empty, or in rainy conditions. This brake system is unbelievable.

Now I'm not gonna lie, it takes a few trys to get the rear brakes right where you want them. AND, you need to rethink how you apply them in daily driving situations. The end result is that you can lock up all 4 wheels if you want. I prefer that to antilock. The ease that it takes to bring your beast to a stop is amazing. The only other thing you would need to watch is the temperature of the power steering fluid after you add hydroboost. I have not had any problems with my 35s because I use a Rockram system with cylinder assist. I have no need for a fluid cooler.

It's a days work to install everything, but as soon as you pull out of the barn, you will see the difference the first time you step on the pedal. (of course that's after you make sure the PS lines are air free. Takes about 10 minutes).

Good luck. Feel free to email if you have any questions. I'd send pics but I don't own a digital camera. I can ask a few friends to take some one of these days.

Good luck. Sorry for any spelling errors.

 

These brake posts with information are valuable.
Thanks for posting.

Here's an old 1998 post that might still be of interest to some:
------
Sun Oct 25 18:21:26 1998
From: hl
Subject: 97 Delco Brake Mas.Cyl. fix for 95-96 Rams?
Cc:
Bcc:
X-Attachments:

In 'Mopar Muscle Magazine' there is a letter to the editor from a guy that
claims to be a product engineer for Raybestos Brakes. He says that he
bought a used '95 1500 Ram from a friend - likes the truck - but he (and
the previous owner) were unhappy with the slow stopping brakes.

He said that he noticed at his work spec'ing brake equipment that the 95-97
Rams have Delco brake parts, and that in 97 Dodge started equiping the
1500's with a Delco 1.25 inch diameter piston in the brake master cylinder,
whereas in 95 and 96 the brake cylinder piston had been a smaller 1.125
diameter.

He said that he installed the 1997's larger 1.25 diameter master cylinder
on his '95 Ram and that it made a big difference in braking performance and
pedal firmness. He recommends that other 95-96 Ram owners make this
upgrade because, and I quote, he "sees a lot of Ram's on the road with
front end damage."

 

stainless steel brakes corp also sells a rear disc conversion system for the ram. i believe when i was looking at it, it rounded out to be a bout $750. everything included.

it seemed like the best one i found out there. didn't get it didn't have the money but i HATE drums. i'm going with radwebster on that one of them SQUEALING under light braking. went through a couple mud PUDDLES and it's been doing it ever since. yes there is no debris and the shoes are still good.

yeah well just my two cents of ear pain.