96 Ram2500 Drive train noise
I have a 96 Ram 2500 4X4 (V10) that makes a loud clicking sound from the drivetrain when you're driving slowly. It seems to go away when it's in FWD. Kind of sounds like it's coming from the left front but its hard to tell.........could be the rear too. It has a rear locker. It's very noticeable when you're driviving slowly next to something solid (road divider) on the drivers side.
Ideas?
Thanks!!
Ideas?
Thanks!!
It has a rear locker? Is it an aftermarket unit?
I hope you weren't driving in 4wd on the road
It sounds like it's either a ujoint or wheel bearing that's going out on you.
I hope you weren't driving in 4wd on the road

It sounds like it's either a ujoint or wheel bearing that's going out on you.
Factory locker. Not driving on the "roads" in FWD recently, but in Alaska in the winter........there are no roads.......just hardpack and ice.....plus I have 16 miles of dirt road, covered with ice and snow before I hit pavement covered with ice and snow.....
....so, not recently, just noticed when playing with it that it subsides when it's in FWD........
Alaskan trucks generally go into FWD in late september and stay there until May.......been doing that for 5 years in this truck with no issues and another 20 in others before that.
I just don't understand how the "free wheel" function works in the Dodge. I'm used to GMCs.........with hubs on the wheels.......how does this disengage when it's shifted to 2 wd?
....so, not recently, just noticed when playing with it that it subsides when it's in FWD........Alaskan trucks generally go into FWD in late september and stay there until May.......been doing that for 5 years in this truck with no issues and another 20 in others before that.
I just don't understand how the "free wheel" function works in the Dodge. I'm used to GMCs.........with hubs on the wheels.......how does this disengage when it's shifted to 2 wd?
ORIGINAL: pipedreams
Factory locker.
I just don't understand how the "free wheel" function works in the Dodge. I'm used to GMCs.........with hubs on the wheels.......how does this disengage when it's shifted to 2 wd?
Factory locker.
I just don't understand how the "free wheel" function works in the Dodge. I'm used to GMCs.........with hubs on the wheels.......how does this disengage when it's shifted to 2 wd?
Only factory limited slip.Also, the Dodge's don't "free wheel". The hubs and u-joints turn ALL the time, whether you're in 4wd or not.
4wd is disengaged via a vacuum motor on the passenger side of the front axle. It slides a collar over which unlocks the two piece shaft that goes from the differential to the passenger side tire. The driver side tire turns the differential & the inner shaft on the passenger side. The passenger side tire turns the "stub" shaft on the passenger side. Because the shafts aren't connected, the wheels can turn independantly. This is as close to "free wheeling" as the Ram gets. The front driveshaft doesn't turn at all in 2wd.
Because everything turns all the time, it means a lot more wear/tear on components.
I'd still say it's your u-joint and/or bearing, especially if they're original. The factory u-joints don't usually last more than 120-130k. I replaced mine at 140k.
Many thanks! especially for the front drive explanation.......I've heard a few people TRY to explain it, but it never made sense........what you said does 100%!
I'll check the front U joints. It does sound like that much more than a bearing.....no whine or moan and it doesn't change at all when loading in turns which bad bearings usually do. Also, I'm sitting on 135K....better get right on then before I'm before I have to buy axel shafts too!
I'll check the front U joints. It does sound like that much more than a bearing.....no whine or moan and it doesn't change at all when loading in turns which bad bearings usually do. Also, I'm sitting on 135K....better get right on then before I'm before I have to buy axel shafts too!
If you do the job yourself, this is a GREAT write-up to follow: http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm
Awesome (just gave it a quick look over, but I can see that it's VERY detailed!)...........thanks again!
One other question, perhaps related or not. I seem to be leaking small amounts (a drop about the size of a nickle at most) of fluid from the bottom of the transfer case........can't exactly tell where it's comming from and haven't cleaned things up to determine..but with this type of driveline in the front, is the transfer case always turning?
Also, is the transfer case filled from an overflow in the transmission (with ATF) like it was on my Chevy, or does it have it's own fill point?
One other question, perhaps related or not. I seem to be leaking small amounts (a drop about the size of a nickle at most) of fluid from the bottom of the transfer case........can't exactly tell where it's comming from and haven't cleaned things up to determine..but with this type of driveline in the front, is the transfer case always turning?
Also, is the transfer case filled from an overflow in the transmission (with ATF) like it was on my Chevy, or does it have it's own fill point?
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The transfer case has it's own fill point and drain plug.
The transfer case is always turning, because it needs to spin the rear shaft. The front shaft only spins in 4wd though.
The transfer case is always turning, because it needs to spin the rear shaft. The front shaft only spins in 4wd though.
Yup...ATF.
Fluid capacity is 4.7pt for the 241D transfer case, which most V10s have. Capacity is 6.4pt for the 241HD transfer case which was optional...and standard with the plow package.
Fluid capacity is 4.7pt for the 241D transfer case, which most V10s have. Capacity is 6.4pt for the 241HD transfer case which was optional...and standard with the plow package.



