Fuel rails insulated/CPS Mod
Finally got around to insulating the fuel rails and installing high temp teflon washers on mounting points-see how it go's,also did the cps mod-wow-really woke it up,especially the bottom end,moved the cps about an 1/8 inch.Now to see if it helped or hurt the mpg.
[IMG]local://upfiles/23203/ABEEBA4E63E84E7CB088657AA40462E5.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/23203/ABEEBA4E63E84E7CB088657AA40462E5.jpg[/IMG]
the CPS mod would shift power to the top end... it's like advancing your timing on an old adjustable distributor type of setup.
when I added my fuel cooler and insulated my fuel lines I saw a 6% boost in mileage
when I added my fuel cooler and insulated my fuel lines I saw a 6% boost in mileage
For info on the CPS mod go here: http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/timing.html
I did it on my truck last weekend and it seemed to help the bottom end. No report on mileage yet but I also did it in combination with other mods. A few tips, the head of the bolts can accept an allen wrench, not sure of the size. Otherwise you have to use a 1/2" open end wrench. I opened the holes up about 1/8" also on one side only and slid it towards the oil filter. I assume this is advancing the timing. I used the side of a drill bit, but that took a long time. A small grinder bit like a Dremel bit might work better. I didn't have one, the stores were closed on Sunday, and it would have taken me longer to run to Lowe's to pick a bit up than to do it with a drill bit. The hardest part is getting to the bolts. I went underneath and reached up along side the transmission. Being skinny helped. The second hardest part is finding the electrical connector. It is hiding behind the distributor. If you go underneath, let the exhaust cool.
I did it on my truck last weekend and it seemed to help the bottom end. No report on mileage yet but I also did it in combination with other mods. A few tips, the head of the bolts can accept an allen wrench, not sure of the size. Otherwise you have to use a 1/2" open end wrench. I opened the holes up about 1/8" also on one side only and slid it towards the oil filter. I assume this is advancing the timing. I used the side of a drill bit, but that took a long time. A small grinder bit like a Dremel bit might work better. I didn't have one, the stores were closed on Sunday, and it would have taken me longer to run to Lowe's to pick a bit up than to do it with a drill bit. The hardest part is getting to the bolts. I went underneath and reached up along side the transmission. Being skinny helped. The second hardest part is finding the electrical connector. It is hiding behind the distributor. If you go underneath, let the exhaust cool.
Anything special about the fuel cooler, or is that just high-temp reflective insulation?
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the fuel cooler is an actual cooler mounted in front of the radiator. Flex-a-lite makes it IIRC. the insulation on the rails is a tape you apply, then use tie wraps to make sure it doesnt come loose. If you visit my cardomain site, I think there might be a pic of the fuel cooler.. not 100% sure though maybe on page 2 or 3.
So to get this straight, if you follow the KRC writeup and shift the sensor towards the filter a tad, will power shift to the high end? Will I lose low end power. I do alot of in town driving and would hate to loose too much. Also that fuel cooler, where is that available and where can I find specs on it? That sounds like an interesting mod as well. Would I find an increase on a mildy modded 360?
When I did this, it seemed to help across the full range of throttle. Since I normally run with a light foot, I have a better feel for the low end, which this mod did seem to help. It might be a good idea to use a timing light or a scan tool to find your current timing, then make the adjustment. Do as I say, not as I did, since I didn't check the timing.
As some background, I had just purchased a Hypertech programmer and had programmed it to the premium setting. However, I was running mid-grade fuel in the truck. I could never hear it pinging, which is good, but it made me wonder if the base timing on my truck was slightly retarted. So I did the CPS mod to advance the timing. My thinking was that if it started pinging after the mod, I could slide the sensor back to its original position. But even after adjusting the sensor, I still don't have an issue with pinging. The throttle response seemed improved and power seems better at light throttle. Also to let you know, my truck is more of a weekend warrior, not my daily driver. So my sense of how the truck feels or responds is subjective.
If I remember, I want a friend of mine to check the timing using his scan tool tomorrow. Then I'll have a benchmark of the current timing. I may pull it off and try slotting it even more. According to the website I linked, I could have slotted it about a 1/4" more.
As some background, I had just purchased a Hypertech programmer and had programmed it to the premium setting. However, I was running mid-grade fuel in the truck. I could never hear it pinging, which is good, but it made me wonder if the base timing on my truck was slightly retarted. So I did the CPS mod to advance the timing. My thinking was that if it started pinging after the mod, I could slide the sensor back to its original position. But even after adjusting the sensor, I still don't have an issue with pinging. The throttle response seemed improved and power seems better at light throttle. Also to let you know, my truck is more of a weekend warrior, not my daily driver. So my sense of how the truck feels or responds is subjective.
If I remember, I want a friend of mine to check the timing using his scan tool tomorrow. Then I'll have a benchmark of the current timing. I may pull it off and try slotting it even more. According to the website I linked, I could have slotted it about a 1/4" more.










