$700 is robbery. the pcm is on the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle. its one of the three units side by side., they just clip in and out.

 

ECM ... PCM ... ECU ... computer ... all the same thing. I don't recall you saying what year and model (or engine or transmission) your truck was. The price will vary accordingly. It will be nowhere NEAR $700 though. Seriously, it takes 2 or 3 minutes to change out. 3 screws and 3 connectors ... done.

Good luck finding a Mopar Performance PCM ... they haven't been produced for years. You MIGHT get lucky and find one on eBay.

Click here and find your engine/tranny combo ... the price is all the way to the right: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...mp;catalogid=1

 

My truck is a 2000 1500 5.9

 

Looks like FLRam has the right idea. Click on this: http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/...d=dgePU99%2D00

 

I will chime in here rather than poat a new thread on the same issue.
My 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad SLT 318 Auto has been discussed here a few times.
History!
Went dead at a returant drive through while ideling in park.
Had to have it towed to a shop who had no ideas, then had it towed home.I found it had no spark
Came here and ended up replacing the Crank Positition sensor, rotor button, cap, coil...still no spark.
Ended up checking voltage's as defined in my Haynes book. CP off, nothing to the coil, wasted money.
Had it towed to the local Dodge fix it guy (Jacks Garage), doesthe warranty runnover work for a local dealership.
Got a call, bad PCM..computer. Want to buy new or re-built. I bought new.
Ran for a week and was dead one morning in the driveway.
Jack picked it up from y drive and said he had to replace the buss under the angine bay fuses.
I picked it up wrorking again. Lasted 2 days and would not start again at work.
Jack picked it up again. Kept it a week and it would never die for him so I got it back.Jack towed it back to my drive.
First thing I noticed was an awful noise from the stater but it started. Not suprised as he told me he started and killed it over 300 times..used it for all his errands. Now he want answer my calls and was to busy to talk to me when I took the truck there.
I have the noisy; going to fail stater; That Jack is going to fix...like it or not.
NOW!
The truck decides not either go dead or not start at all.Dies after running for a few seconds to a couple of minutes. Might start right back up or just not start at all.
These are the symptoms now when it want start.
Turn the key to start and the fuel pump whirs and it tries to start once.
Try again and the fuel pump whirs and never stops whirring. Purge solidoid clicks rapidly and loud....since I never hear it normally... anyhow. All this with the key "on" not "start".
As mention erlier in this thread; later it will start. I am always going somehwere so not sure times.
I have given up on Jack fixing it. I suspect the pump but my diagnosis has cost me;$$ and time;before. I really suspect the PCM Jack put in is bad but he said back when he could not replace it unless it showed a code...thus he kept it a week.
My cheap OBD II reads no codes but displays a yellow led indicating a possible problem.
"C", "O" and "OH" all blink. Catalyst Monitor, Oxygen Sensor Monitor, Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor.
This means my OBD reader did not/could not read those systems.
I plug the same OBD into my newer car and all green and all read.
It might start next time it might not.
HELP!
and while I am here my dash cracked into and under the air bag cover too. I filed with NHTSA..10184161 another forgotten nuber in 2002. Hope that works!!
Thanks for reading
Blue

 

A buddy of mine had the same problem some years ago with his Caravan. The PCM was overheating. Never threw a code ... just shut down. R2 computer ... problem solved.

Did you check for solid seating of the 3 connectors to the PCM? Take 'em off and examine the pins and sockets for grease or dirt. Maybe clean them up and put them back on.

You say that your reader is showing errors with 3 "monitors" ... these monitor circuits are in the PCM.

 

First I pulled the negative battery cable for an hour or so.
Next time it happed I pulled the neg batt cable and pulled each one of the multi pin connectors from the PCM and inspected. Its new and the cables connection looked fine. However I sprayed electrical connection cleaner on those male pins. Waited a long time for it to dry. The pins looked fine but now the connectors look new.
Mine tends to fail cold...when I first start it after its been sitting. Does not matter what the ambient is..20 to 70 degree outside failures.Just will not start and always the fuel pump never stops and thepurge clicks.
When I first got the truck back it was all green reading everything.
Like I said I suspect the BRAND NEW $750.00 PCM or theprogram he put in it.
He said he cannot just return thePCM without a code showing PCM failure.
It actually seems preety obvious. No real problems until 119,000 miles at the drive through.
normal crap, water pump, t'sat...starter last year...catalyst under warranty 4 years ago.
New computer fixed that.... then problem after problem has plagued the truck. All likley PCM origin.
Burned busswithing a week and nowthis fuel thing withOBD not reading 3 things through the PCM asit should.
I have checked the OBD several times while it was running normal, sometimes all good, now after 2 dies the missing 3 and yellow. Needs astarter for surebut I think that is on the guy who started it 300+ times and used my truck for every shop errand. These are his words.He agreed to replace it then never spoke to me again. My life is to busy to mess around to much with him.
I tried again Monday and then again today though. Just on hold until I gave up....again.
What is R-2.
I looked again and it is a remanufactured PCM from 2005. Maybe I bought that I forget, have to drag my paper work out. It a 2005 Mopar R-16046343AG.
This crap started 6 months back.
Once truck gets past the noisy start up,it runs good. No foul smell, Powerful enough for 119,000 miles, stilleasily spins the tire......I am just getting into PCM's this year. I am old school...45. I just read the OBD again and OH read this time but C and O continue unread. Its just odd. If those are bad or not reading PCM to sensorI would get anoffair/fiel mix...right?? Idles fine, smells as it always has......however it just might not start at all next time. Thats actially likely. I am always amazed ahen it starts.
I am in Birmingham, Alabama.... area. I have yet to find a worthy performace shop.
Thanks again
Blue

 

R2 = R squared = Removed and Replaced.

Is there a repair facility sticker on the PCM? They're usually pretty proud of themselves and will use any chance to get their name out there. If there is ... try to contact them directly. All indications point to a faulty computer but you already know that. I HATE getting "rebuilt" electrical items. Half the time, the techs claim there's nothing wrong with the thing and return it to service ... just to have it do exactly what it was gotten rid of for ... only now YOU have the problem.

 

Mopar...nice big USA...little... printed in the. Sticker for the ECM is made in the USA.
I am writing them..Daimler/Chrysler now.....writing what they call ginuine Mopar.
I have serious doubts my letter will do any good.

I will post what they have for an answer.

 

Hey thanks for the link TMS Bill will use and save about $500 bucks thanks again.