I have read on here a few times how you can turn the key ON/OFF/ON/OFF/ON within 5 seconds and your check engine light will read you the code by blinking.

My question is how do i read the blinking...do i count the number of blinks and when it pauses that lets me know it is going to a new number. Also is it giving me double digit numbers by blinking 3 times and pausing then blinking 5 times(does that translate to a 35) or does it translate to 3 in the first series of numbers than 5 in the second series.

Just need some pointers so i can get this right and dont have to pay 25-60 bucks for someone to read it on a computer.


thanks guys.

 

First, what year truck do you have? If you have a digital odometer, I believe the code numbers will display in the odometer. I don't have the ability to check codes on my 99 Ram, so maybe someone else can chime in hear.

But, if your check engine light does flash, your first analysis was correct I've checked my car and van by counting the flashes with the check engine light and it works quite well, until you get into multiple codes. Then it can be confusing because there are some double digit and some triple digit codes.

If you have trouble deciphering the codes, you can go to AutoZone or some other auto parts dealers and have the codes checked for free. The stores provide this service because they hope you will purchase needed parts from them. Take advantage of it.

 

oh yeah sorry.

it is a 96' ram 1500 5.2 V-8 (2 wheel drive)

i am giong to check it right now and see what numbers i come up with.

 

It looks like my first attempt at this pulled

12/32/55....

the last interval actually blinked a 6th time but it stayed on that 6th time. I know that 55 signals an end code. So i assume it just stayed on because it has not been cleared yet. So the last number i am pretty sure is a 55.

 

does anyone have the list of codes i can look at?

 

Finally found it, try here: http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/Trouble/pcm_fault_code.htm.

They need to make checking codes and the code lists a sticky.

 

YEAH IT WOULD BE GREAT TO HAVE THAT STICKIED.

ok so the 12 means

Direct Battery input to PCM disconnected within last 50 ignition key-on cycles. Normal if battery has been disconnected, otherwise check battery power and ground connections.


and the 32 means

Short or open in the EGR solenoid circuit. Check for loose, broken, or shorted wire in the EGR valve wiring and connectors. Possible air fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.


so does that mean i have the two combinations of problems at the same time, or does that mean it is one of the two causing the code?

and thanks for all your help ASH

 

The two codes aren't related. If you disconnected your battery recently, it went dead, or was very low in charge, that was the reason for Code 12. Basically, don't worry about that one.

I don't have the EGR system on my current truck, so I'm no expert on diagnoses. I've checked the systems on my old Ford truck and my Caravan. Your EGR valve will open and close based on throttle pressure and manifold settings. If it isn't working properly, there are several components that could be causing the problem. I would check the electrical connections to the solenoid that controls the vacuum to the valve and make sure it is clicked into place. If that is properly connected, check your vacuum lines from the EGR valve to the solendoid to make sure they don't have leaks. There is a diaphram inside the EGR valve that can go bad, you can check this with a vacuum guage. The solenoid can also go bad. If you have a Haynes or Chilton manual, you might be able to troubleshoot the system using their guidelines.

If you are having problems with the truck, describe those problems. You may want to start another post since you are now on a new topic. Also, try typing EGR into the search function at the bottom of the page and see what you come up with. Good luck.

 

actually i am experiencing no problems with my trucks performance at this time. The light just came on this morning and i wanted to see if it was something i needed to get on top of immediately or not. It doesnt sound like it so i will probably just have the code cleared and battery replaced and see what that does.


i really apreciate your help man.

 

As long as your battery is within 5 years old, I wouldn't worry about replacing it unless it does start slow. I say that although I've read a weak battery can cause some problems with our trucks. The PCM needs full voltage to operate properly.

I had some EGR issues with my former Ford truck. It would "buck" slightly when going up a hill in higher gears at low rpm. I think it was due to the solenoid leaking vacuum, causing problems with the EFI system. Maybe our Dodge's are different animals, but just something to think about and "feel" for when running your truck.

If your light comes back on, you might want to have it read with a code reader. They tend to give more precise analysis of codes. Basically, codes obtained with the check engine light method can cover a range of related problems, while a code reader will give a code that points to a more specific item.

Good luck with your truck, glad I could help.