it really seems like my truck struggles i have no cat so thats not cloged but me and my buddy pulled a very small enclosed tralier with a motor cycle in it and my truck struggled geting up hills i dont know what the problem is since it has so low miles 53,000

 

I just had to see this for myself, only because it goes against everything I've ever learned. There's all kinds of tricks to make more horses but torque usually boils down to cubic inches and gear ratio. If cody and his bud are both geared the same ... cody's got the CI.

3.9L V6 - 175 hp @ 4,800 rpm / 225 lb-ft @ 3,200 rpm.
5.2L V8 - 230 hp @ 4,400 rpm / 300 lb-ft @ 3,200 rpm.

I'd say you're right on the money about the gearing though. Coupled with a programmer to eliminate the retarded timing of the DF, I think cody will back in business.

cody: Don't worry about the Flash. If you're getting the programmer, you can pretty much dial in whatever settings you want.

 

This doesn't really surprize me all THAT much. Small, light, slippery ...

I found this while researching the DF ... I knew about the base timing mod but did not figure it as a "CURE" for the DF:

WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?

Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?

Then advance your timing.

Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.

Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!

COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! [:'(])

 

i had no idea that that would do that i will do that tomorrow is there anything i should be worried bout when doing it. thanks alot

 

You may want to pop your intake off and look down the tb to see if you have any oil in the bottom of your beerbarrel (use a mirror/flashlight to see). The plenum gasket could be leaking. If there is a light film its probably ok, if there is a small puddle towards the back your leaking and thats costing performance.

 

thanks alot for u guys help