crank sensor mod
I don't know what it looks like; but you should be able to find it by following the wires from the distributor. On my 97 the sensor has a cut-out for it in the transmission bellhousing on the passenger side towards the top.
I was able to access mine from underneath the truck. It sticks into the bell housing of the transmission just above the height of the oil filter on my 5.2L. The sensor is actually inside so it's hard to see. You can see a wire there disappearing into the trans bell housing and there's a bracket there with two 1/2" bolts right beside the auto trans dip stick tube. I just had it out. I should have taken a picture.
crank sensor is just about impossible to see unless you have the intake off. it is almost directly behind the passenger side head, valve cover. If you work your hand behind that head and feel around you will find a wire leading to a connector near the distributor. on either side of the wire behind the head there will be two 1/2" bolts. the whole removal/replacement of this sensor is done pretty much blind. if I remember right ,one bolt you can get a socket or box wrench on and the other one you will need an open end wrench. good luck
here's a picture reaching up beside the passenger side exhaust pipe. I was able to pop the hood, look up from underneath and was able to see what I was doing a little. Not a ton of room to move around from down below but I figured it was better than working blind.
you gotta love my attempt to write with a mouse
[IMG]local://upfiles/32197/A90FBA944C4043D09EF50A461A64B98D.jpg[/IMG]
you gotta love my attempt to write with a mouse
[IMG]local://upfiles/32197/A90FBA944C4043D09EF50A461A64B98D.jpg[/IMG]
WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?
Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?
Then advance your timing.
Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!
COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! )
Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?
Then advance your timing.
Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!
COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE (GACK! )
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ORIGINAL: 20dodgeram01
so i already installed the hypertech programmer.. this crankshaft mod is worthless to me then right?
so i already installed the hypertech programmer.. this crankshaft mod is worthless to me then right?
The crankshaft sensor gives the pcm it's base timing and then the pcm adjusts according to all the sensors in the truck. The hypertech will then adjust everything more aggressively, but it'll still use the same base line timing from the crank sensor. By moding the crank sensor your basically advancing the base line timing that the pcm(stock or programmed) will then adjust with.
If it gets adjusted to far you may get some engine ping (detonation), so it may require a little trial and error on the adjustment of the sensor.
I haven't had any problems with pinging, but I've only had the current configuration on my truck for about two weeks and I'm sure the pcm is still learning my setup so I'll see how it goes.
I installed the Hypertech 93 octane setting on my truck first, then did the crank sensor mod. It definately helped the truck out at little more, especially on the low end. If you do the mod, only slot the sensor so so you can slide it towards the oil filter, this will advance the timing. Leave the holes on the lower side intact, so you can return it to its stock setting. Also, use a rat tail file to slot the holes.



