what kind of oil do you use?
Quaker State is called "Bearing Buster" and Penzoil is good to seal a leak when you're trying to sell a vehicle. I never put either of those in an engine. I am currently using 10W40 dinosaur oil as a break in oil for my rebuilt engine and will switch to a synthetic blend at the first oil change (about 750 miles). Right now I am trying to determine what weight to use. I live in Oklahoma where the climate is rather temperate, meaning it can be 45ยบ on Thanksgiving day and then 70ยบ on December 1.
The article from Hughes is correct, as far as additives effecting wear on solid lifter cams. I've read the article and the add hawking Hughe's additive. I believe that if you change your oil regularly enough BEFORE it gets too contaminated you'll be fine. Contamination is what screws up the oils ability to lubricate, or what the industry calls "lubricity".
A shout out for those who use Castrol, and double Kudos for those using dead dinosaur. It's still the best!
A shout out for those who use Castrol, and double Kudos for those using dead dinosaur. It's still the best!
ORIGINAL: dsertdog56
The article from Hughes is correct, as far as additives effecting wear on solid lifter cams. I've read the article and the add hawking Hughe's additive. I believe that if you change your oil regularly enough BEFORE it gets too contaminated you'll be fine. Contamination is what screws up the oils ability to lubricate, or what the industry calls "lubricity".
A shout out for those who use Castrol, and double Kudos for those using dead dinosaur. It's still the best!
The article from Hughes is correct, as far as additives effecting wear on solid lifter cams. I've read the article and the add hawking Hughe's additive. I believe that if you change your oil regularly enough BEFORE it gets too contaminated you'll be fine. Contamination is what screws up the oils ability to lubricate, or what the industry calls "lubricity".
A shout out for those who use Castrol, and double Kudos for those using dead dinosaur. It's still the best!

you might wanna use some PAINT THINNER on that 

ORIGINAL: VWandDodge
You mean like this?

ORIGINAL: dsertdog56
The article from Hughes is correct, as far as additives effecting wear on solid lifter cams. I've read the article and the add hawking Hughe's additive. I believe that if you change your oil regularly enough BEFORE it gets too contaminated you'll be fine. Contamination is what screws up the oils ability to lubricate, or what the industry calls "lubricity".
A shout out for those who use Castrol, and double Kudos for those using dead dinosaur. It's still the best!
The article from Hughes is correct, as far as additives effecting wear on solid lifter cams. I've read the article and the add hawking Hughe's additive. I believe that if you change your oil regularly enough BEFORE it gets too contaminated you'll be fine. Contamination is what screws up the oils ability to lubricate, or what the industry calls "lubricity".
A shout out for those who use Castrol, and double Kudos for those using dead dinosaur. It's still the best!

That's supposedly one of the reasons they stopped making Arco Graphite. It stained all the internals black making it tough to locate problems during a tear-down (that and it lubed so well ... it slipped past seals).
I'm 100% sold on straight synthetic. The only reason I would use dino oil is for break-in. You cannot break-in a motor on synthetic ... it lubricates TOO well.
That being said ... is 750 miles enough?
I'm 100% sold on straight synthetic. The only reason I would use dino oil is for break-in. You cannot break-in a motor on synthetic ... it lubricates TOO well.
That being said ... is 750 miles enough?
ORIGINAL: TMS Bill
That's supposedly one of the reasons they stopped making Arco Graphite. It stained all the internals black making it tough to locate problems during a tear-down (that and it lubed so well ... it slipped past seals).
I'm 100% sold on straight synthetic. The only reason I would use dino oil is for break-in. You cannot break-in a motor on synthetic ... it lubricates TOO well.
That being said ... is 750 miles enough?
That's supposedly one of the reasons they stopped making Arco Graphite. It stained all the internals black making it tough to locate problems during a tear-down (that and it lubed so well ... it slipped past seals).
I'm 100% sold on straight synthetic. The only reason I would use dino oil is for break-in. You cannot break-in a motor on synthetic ... it lubricates TOO well.
That being said ... is 750 miles enough?
That's what winds up happening on my new vehicles (have had a few). I'll let the factory stuff break it in (5k though) and change it out with straight synthetic (5w50) on extended changes. Just a little too cheap to bother after only 750. [&:]







