After reading all the diode stuff, now I know why I just wired them in with the lights. [sm=confused06.gif]How do you go about boiling an egg.[sm=laughat.gif]

I would admit that a relay is the correct way to do it. When I put them on I figured give it a try. Then again 55Watts for short periods of time is not a major melt down. Hasn't blown or burnt anything yet so what the heck. If it breaks, I'll fix it. Now that I have the 7way trailer wiring, I do have a source in the back if needed....

Picked my lights up at Autozone for around 20-30 bucks. Clamp on the reciever.

 

i agree.. running a relay would help in keeping the high of a load off that smaller circuit.. that is the so called "proper" way to do it..and is pretty easy to do it.

 

Well, first you build an atomic clock to time the egg...

Seriously, DD, that's quite a write up. Did you write all that just for me, or did you have it saved somewhere? Anyway, thanks a lot![sm=icon_cheers.gif]
That should be in the FAQ's somewhere, so everyone can see it in the future.

I don't need the cab switch, but would that be the way to go with an electric radiator fan? If/when I get one, I'd like to have a switch to overide the t-stat switch to turn the fan on or off when I want to. That would be better than just a toggle switch and hoping I remember to turn it on.

BTW, Summit lists 30 amp relays as low as $5.


Oh, yeah... will wiring the lights to just one existing b/u light cause that light to dim? Or, does the relay eliminate that problem?

 

You guys have entirely too much time and energy. I go with the guy who suggested just wiring the driving lights up with a toggle switch. For one, if you have them wired to the backup lights and happen to blind a cop in a parking lot or something - you might get in trouble. Another thing is, if you need light to work on something or load a trailer, etc - you can just switch them on when you need them. Another thing is that you risk burning the bulbs out on this kind of light which are not made for constant off/on.....

Oh yeah - you can flip them on when some J/O is riding your tail at night or has their brights on you also....[sm=badbadbad.gif]

 

daggum i wish i understood all this electrical stuff..........

 

I have mine on a relay triggered off the back up circuit. I'm thinking I should add another relay to the system so the only come on when the headlights and b/u are on.

It is wicked bright though. Thought about getting flood lights but 55w driving lights let me see the boat trailer under water. I mounted them to the spring perches so they don't get smashed when I back into stuff. They're really protected up there.

I'd use the relay setup though. You can run alot of amps that way. Tapping into the b/u wire won't get you much juice, it's pretty small wire.

 

It's all for you, baby.LOL.

That's an easy install.lol. I'm the wiring MASTER...lol.


Either way, good luck.

 

anotherthing that i was surpised that really helped out was i ran my cargo/3rd brake lamp into the reverse hot wire through a relay.. so when i go into R .. not only does my reverse lights on the tail lights kick on so does my bright cargo lamp ..

i have an extra set of foggers im gonna try and rig up to a motorized mechanism that drops the lights when in reverse and then retracts them when im in D or P .. something fun to do.. but aint gonna happen till i get the roll pan in

 

Here is a pic of the set up. Did a search and found this on a ryan590 post for auxilary lights. Same effect for any.....



[IMG]local://upfiles/29187/01F57DA687A647F7888AF38F0C4D5AE6.jpg[/IMG]

 

as a correction to that diagram.. if you want an idicator lamp and want it to work .. you do need to ground it.