If your brakes are vaccum booster powered, that means all the "assist" to help you apply the brakes, is generated by vacuum. And a properly operating, brake booster vacuum, requires adequate vaccum from your engine. Plus all your check valves have to be operating properly as well.

Most people don't realize that the connection from your brake pedal to your master cylinder (mc), is not completely mechanical. There are 2 diaphrams inbetween the pushrod and the mc.


A hydraulic brake booster (hydroboost) is powered by your trucks power steering pump. And it has a complete pushrod all the way thru. It is a very reliable setup, and offers up to 300% more braking effort than vacuum boosters.

What it amounts to is, the pedal can be made firm, or soft, by changing master cylinders. I use a mc from a 1990 Chevy V3500 Van. It has a 1 5/16" bore.


It is an investment, but the outcome is night and day.

Here's a pic of my current setup. You'll see the hydroboost unit between the mc and firewall, standoff bracket.


Feel free to PM if you want specifics.

[IMG]local://upfiles/12792/8BF1C42CC6D14346BB537D14C4B5D495.jpg[/IMG]

 

thats a pretty slick setup, how long did the install take and how much was it? any links to a suplier?

 

The hydroboost unit is an older Yearwood YEA-1201. The Yearwood company in Gerogia no longer sells, OR services them. They gave me some number for an Odd Rods company. He was no help either. He said they can be rebuilt with ease. He was going to try an find a schematic. He also stated they were all pretty much assembled the same. This Yearwood unit is a heavy duty unit.

It would be used on something like an F-450 and up.

The unit was a little over a hundred dollars. It was a good find for me. The mc was bought from Advance Auto. I am sure it was around $90.00.

The power steering pump is from AGR, and is the superpump for the Rockram system, which I have, but have not installed the assist cylinder. I wish I was a welder. It's is a 4.5-5gpm pump with 1700psi line pressure. Pump was $215.00 from Summit. They don't list it, you have to ask for it specifically. I will dig out the pump #. Please remind me if I forget.

The lines are Aeroquips that can be made at any hydraulic shop. I went with 3/8 id. Yo DO have to use the fittings on your current hose, or just buy a new hp hose and have new ends to work with. New line is about $25-30, and hoses were 30 each with my ends.

A brass tee for the lp lines, and 3/8 id return lines.

It's an INCREDIBLE braking system. I do all my braking in about 2.5 inches of brake pedal travel. Setup is almost instantaneous. I can lock up all 4 if I desire. Very firm pedal. If you want a chic to be able to drive, go down to a 1 1/4" bore, or even a 1 1/8" bore. The smaller the bore, the easier it is to apply the brakes. Trade off is you add longer pedal travel.

I like a firm pedal. Every mm of pedal movement gets a reaction that you can feel.


The entire job took me about 7 hours. You will probably have to use your standoff bracket that is attached to the vacuum booster. I had one all ready to go that day.

Ok, anything else, let me know.


ADIOS!!!

 

Where the heck did you come up with this idea? It sounds amazing !!

[sm=hail.gif]

 

Does that affect ABS?

 

I don't understand Mayfair?

 

How did you come up with this brake job concoxion ??

 

ABS????.....HA HA ...........lol


Just grindin' ya dude. There is no more ABS on my truck. I yanked EVERYTHING! Lines, anitlock valve, metering/proportioning valve.




My system is what they call "live-lined". From the master cylinder the front line goes directly to the front calipers, and the rear line goes right to the rears, BUT, I have my proportioning valve, and manual line lock, installed in the cab. I also trashed the rear drum brakes and installed a rear disc conversion.

And yes Mayfair......it IS an awesome setup.


What happens is the entire system is high pressure now. Now worrying about residual, proportioning, or metering valves. Which Dodge uses a "combo" version of. They are a poorly built valve in my opinion. Now my brakes respond like they should. I can lock all four up. On a rainy day, I dial back the rear brakes so they don't lock up because the *** end is lighter, naturally.

Here's a pic of the valve in the cab. I can manipulate the brakes on the move. I can adjust for any conditions. And I assure you I can stop faster than any ABS system can.....lol.






Real brakes, power by a real assist unit.


Well worth every penny if braking is critical to the way you drive.


Any other questions, feel free to PM............ NOT YOU MAYFAIR...


j/k.lol................................who luvs ya baby?????

[IMG]local://upfiles/12792/F61B9498D48D4BEEB03F266F30B1936B.jpg[/IMG]

 

How did I come up with it? Easy...... a few close calls where I had to slam on the brakes and the third time, the prop/metering valve finally crapped itself. Rolled an O-ring.


There's no fuss and no muss with this setup. Pad changes only, no shoes and hardware kit anymore. Slotted rotors. All new brake lines were installed. The master cylinder and the hydro are matched up well. Plus the hydro is getting MEGA fluid and pressure from that AGR Superpump PS pump.


And besides Mayfair......what SHOULD i do with all my time,....go look at Fords?..........LMAO.LOL.....LOL.

 

Perhaps invest in, and USE one of these ??



[sm=happybounce.gif][sm=happybounce.gif][sm=happybounce.gif][sm=happybounce.gif][sm=happybounce.gif][sm=happybounce.gif]