Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
#1
11-14-2006, 04:23 AM
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Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
I swamped my truck and hydro locked my motor and I now have it pulled apart in my shop. I figured if Im going to rebuild it I might as well rebuild it right and squeez all the power out of it I can. I plan on a new cam rockers lifters maybe high compression pistons/light weight connecting rods and all that jaz..... Im just having trouble tracking down hi-pro parts for it. Anybody have any sugestions for me? Do they make aftermarket heads for this engine? Intake manifolds(that are efi)? What do you think of boring out the cylinders, and how much should I go if I do. My crank may be damaged as well, Im not sure I havent had it looked at yet.... I bent a connecting rod pretty good though so I wouldnt be suprised if I need a new one of those as well.
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11-15-2006, 06:48 AM
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#3
11-15-2006, 08:07 AM
RE: Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
Check out Hughes Engines
Summit Racing
KRC Performance
Hughes has the Heavy duty heads. Good flow and reasonable price. If you want something better go to the Edelbrock 202 alum heads (on my 408)
Intake manifold you want is the M1/2bbl. Must have the install kit with it. 53mm tb would be a good match.
Cam, maybe the KRC220, with 600 lift springs and retainers. Get heat treated pushrods and maybe roller rockers like Harland Sharp.
Replace the timing chain with a double roller
Go with 30 over pistons, with say 9.5-10.0 compression. Need to run 91+ octane
Get the Eagle forged internals. Now sell as a kit with crank, rods and pistons. Save a few bucks. They send them already balanced saving machine work time and costs.
I have the Eagle forged 4340 4" stroker crank and rods but got Wiseco custom forged blower pistons. Eagle didnt have the kit/deal when I bought.
Total seal gapless rings
Complete Magnum gasket kit includes Felpro head gaskets. I would also order the intake manifold gasket kit seperately cause it comes with the rubber valley gaskets below the manifold where the complete magnum kit supplies the crappy cork ones.
How does the block look? Depending on what shape its in maybe best to replace it.
Summit Racing
KRC Performance
Hughes has the Heavy duty heads. Good flow and reasonable price. If you want something better go to the Edelbrock 202 alum heads (on my 408)
Intake manifold you want is the M1/2bbl. Must have the install kit with it. 53mm tb would be a good match.
Cam, maybe the KRC220, with 600 lift springs and retainers. Get heat treated pushrods and maybe roller rockers like Harland Sharp.
Replace the timing chain with a double roller
Go with 30 over pistons, with say 9.5-10.0 compression. Need to run 91+ octane
Get the Eagle forged internals. Now sell as a kit with crank, rods and pistons. Save a few bucks. They send them already balanced saving machine work time and costs.
I have the Eagle forged 4340 4" stroker crank and rods but got Wiseco custom forged blower pistons. Eagle didnt have the kit/deal when I bought.
Total seal gapless rings
Complete Magnum gasket kit includes Felpro head gaskets. I would also order the intake manifold gasket kit seperately cause it comes with the rubber valley gaskets below the manifold where the complete magnum kit supplies the crappy cork ones.
How does the block look? Depending on what shape its in maybe best to replace it.
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11-15-2006, 09:15 AM
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#6
11-15-2006, 08:51 PM
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RE: Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
The block is failry new seeing as I just put this motor in about 6 months ago. The first motor was on its way out due to "spark knock" and the previous owner never catching on to what it was. Hell I didnt even catch it, I just replaced the gaskets and couldnt figure out why I couldnt keep oil presure, learend the hard way on that one. Theres no major scratchs or nicks in the cylinder walls... looks fairly clean still. Even with the bent connecting rod it still drove and ran fine... it was just a little noisy... like a card in a bycle wheel. Were I swamped it a tow truck wouldnt even touch it so I just pulled the plugs turned the engine over for a while to push out the water did an oil change and drove it out/home. Other then killing my altenator it ran perfect all the way home other then the noise.
#7
11-15-2006, 09:06 PM
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RE: Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
I was told not to even bother with the M1 intake seeing as it makes HP at high RPMS and thats useless more or less when 4x4ing.
Heres what I was told in another forum... what do you think of this. Im just looking to compare and work out whats in my best intrest.
Heres what I was told in another forum... what do you think of this. Im just looking to compare and work out whats in my best intrest.
first off, forget the M1, you have absolutly no use for the HP it is gonna give you. Stick with the Stock manifold, BUT... we will look into a fix for the damn leaky gasket. There are plemun kits available that change the plate from steel to aluminum. the whole problem with them is that the two different metal react to heat differently, making for one helluva wicked gasket fight to keep up. You will gain WAY more TQ by sticking with the Beer Berrell. There are also some tricks you can do on the inside to free up some power. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, IT WILL DEFINATLY DEPICT HOW YOUR ENGINE WILL CREAT POWER(USEABLE POWER). Waht good is 350 peak HP to a 4X4 if it happens at 6K RPM?
As far as a cam is concerned, I wouls look into a KRC 206X with 1.6 rockers, or possibly an R/T cam with 1.7's. But I think you will see better results with a 206X. Mild enough to pass most Etests, but Idles lumpy and make great low and mid power, but still pulls up top.
Probably gonna want some FMS 21lb Injectors, an MSD would be nice, or at least a coil upgrade. These are parts that are readily available used or preowned.
Computer wise, I personnally would like to see you stay away from a superchips or the like, and get an MP PCM to controll it.
If you have to buy connecting rods, Eagle SIR I-Beams are cheap and carry a 500HP max limit. Pistons, get some decent Keith Blacks, somewhere around 9.5CR Reletively cheap, but still stronger than stockers.
Obviously plan on replacing all of your bearings.
As far as a cam is concerned, I wouls look into a KRC 206X with 1.6 rockers, or possibly an R/T cam with 1.7's. But I think you will see better results with a 206X. Mild enough to pass most Etests, but Idles lumpy and make great low and mid power, but still pulls up top.
Probably gonna want some FMS 21lb Injectors, an MSD would be nice, or at least a coil upgrade. These are parts that are readily available used or preowned.
Computer wise, I personnally would like to see you stay away from a superchips or the like, and get an MP PCM to controll it.
If you have to buy connecting rods, Eagle SIR I-Beams are cheap and carry a 500HP max limit. Pistons, get some decent Keith Blacks, somewhere around 9.5CR Reletively cheap, but still stronger than stockers.
Obviously plan on replacing all of your bearings.
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#8
11-17-2006, 12:17 AM
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RE: Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
I am OH my 1999 318 1500 4x4, and it is a lot of fun. What I recommend and what Im using is "The Auto Math Handbook, Engine Blueprinting, How to rebuild your Mopar Magnum V8, and How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines". It is a lot of reading but it is worth it. I enjoyed the Auto Math because I calculated everthing on paper before I applied it. For instance, I went with .030 KB piston, and my block is now a 323 and not a 318. I am using every little trick to squeeze all the HP I can get. I have knifebladed, lighten and shotpeen the crankshaft. Rework and lighten connecting rods, too many to list. It is a lot work and fun. Summit Racing has a lot of parts. If you email me I can send you pictures of my block. kikidbird@sbcglobal.net
#9
11-17-2006, 04:38 PM
RE: Rebuilding 1998 318 5.2L
ORIGINAL: roadcrew81
I might as well rebuild it right and squeez all the power out of it I can.
I might as well rebuild it right and squeez all the power out of it I can.
While there is nothing wrong with the other forum suggestions, seems you probably asked a different question. If you go for the 206 then use the beerbarrel, cut the runner length and remove the divider and put the Hughes plenum kit under it, use a 50mm tb instead.
You wont be squeezing much out of the smallest cam KRC sells though. Expect maybe 10-15rwhp max with similar or slightly better torque gains.
#10
11-17-2006, 11:38 PM
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