oil filters
Gonna do an oil/filter/lube on my Ram. Who's running what as far as a filter? Also, on my '77 StreetVan 318 I used to use a "ford size" instead of "dodge size" because it was a taller filter hence more filtration surface. Could I still do this?
i actually just finished changing my oil about 10 minutes ago, I used a pennzoil (pz-34 to be exact) oil filter, probly not recommended but it works... and being that i am borderline dumbass, i broke my oil filter wrench and had to stab a ****ing screwdriver through it and try n pry the bastard off... not cool end result: a busted knuckle and oil all over everything
The filter Fram lists is the PH16. The bigger version of the PH16 is the PH8A.
Personally, I use either ACDelco or Purolator filters (on the aircraft at work, we primarily use Purolator oil filters).
ACDelcos PH16 is PF13, their PH8A is PF2.
Purolators PH16 is L14670, their PH8A is L30001.
In the oil filter "study" that people throw around (the one that says Fram's regular filters aren't that good [their more expensive filters are good]), it says ACDelco and Purolator are good filters, and for the price. They compare to filters twice the cost.
Personally, I use either ACDelco or Purolator filters (on the aircraft at work, we primarily use Purolator oil filters).
ACDelcos PH16 is PF13, their PH8A is PF2.
Purolators PH16 is L14670, their PH8A is L30001.
In the oil filter "study" that people throw around (the one that says Fram's regular filters aren't that good [their more expensive filters are good]), it says ACDelco and Purolator are good filters, and for the price. They compare to filters twice the cost.
ORIGINAL: RamOwna
one more thing, what exactly is to be lubed??? zerks??? would you mind explaining what you lube every oil change??
one more thing, what exactly is to be lubed??? zerks??? would you mind explaining what you lube every oil change??
It's also a good time to inspect your shocks for damage, leakage, etc. etc.
ORIGINAL: dodgerules86
Ball joints, tie-rods, and other components (pitman arm, idler arm, etc.) may have greese fittings on them. Your u-joints might have them as well. Don't forget to take a look at the back while your at it.
It's also a good time to inspect your shocks for damage, leakage, etc. etc.
ORIGINAL: RamOwna
one more thing, what exactly is to be lubed??? zerks??? would you mind explaining what you lube every oil change??
one more thing, what exactly is to be lubed??? zerks??? would you mind explaining what you lube every oil change??
It's also a good time to inspect your shocks for damage, leakage, etc. etc.
i assume any normal tube of grease will work or does it need to be a certain type of grease???
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ORIGINAL: RamOwna
i assume any normal tube of grease will work or does it need to be a certain type of grease???
i assume any normal tube of grease will work or does it need to be a certain type of grease???
Depending on where you go, you will find they do sell synthetic grease. Like synthetic oil, this is supposed to be better under hot and cold conditions, better under pressure, and be less prone to water washout.
Can anyone confirm that the Purolator L30001 will work without any problems?
I would like to do this also. Dodgerules86, you mentioned the filter, but did not say for sure that it works. Thanks.
Does anyone feel that the tall Purolator would be better than the Mopar (short) filter?
I would like to do this also. Dodgerules86, you mentioned the filter, but did not say for sure that it works. Thanks.
Does anyone feel that the tall Purolator would be better than the Mopar (short) filter?




