The additional draw of trailer lights does not run thru the headlamp switch. The switch merely energizes relays. The brake light switch is seperate from the headlamps and can carry the extra load.

If you tied your gauges into the exsisting headlight circuit, and they are illuminated by LEDs, then your headlamp switch is probably bad.

I don't want to get into the electrical controversy today...lol.


I would replace your headlamp switch (15-20$). I would also consider illuminating the gauges from a different circuit with a seperate switch. If you wish to dim the gauges, you should use variable resistors on each gauge.


Good luck with your ride.

 

20Dodgeram01: Yes, I had to pull out each fuse in order to check the continuity between the blades.

DieselDemon: I had the gauges installed by a shop and the gauges, and their illumination, have been working fine for at least 6 months. Do you think that their wiring caused premature failure of tthe headlight switch? Is it possible that a relay is bad? Not looking forward to replacing that light switch. There's just no room to gain access from underneath! Do you know if it has to be replaced from below or is there a way to remove some of the dashboard fascia to gain access to the switch?

Thanks for all the help.

Steve

 

you remove the dash and i beleive theres 2 screws that hold the light switch in.. just unplug the harness(es) from the back of it and pull it out.. easy fix

 

PROBLEM SOLVED...well sort of. I was resigned to replacing the headlamp switch since all signs pointed to to that as the problem. But then I found out that my power door locks didn't work either. When I bought the truck, it already had an after-market alarm installed. Since then I've had installed an exhaust brake and the two gauges I mentioned earlier. So there were a lot of (non-factory) hands messing with the wiring - plenty of opportunities for substandard electrical hookups. I suspect that this is the root of the problem. If you want it done right...and all that.

When I discovered my power locks didn't work, I also checked the alarm and it wasn't working either. So I examined the wiring under the dash and that was a real rat's nest. I spied a couple of fuses just outside a wiring harness connected to the alarm components. I remove each of them and they looked fine. When I reinserted the first one, my alarm began sounding. Clearly this was the one causing the alarm to fail. Regardless, after reseating those fuses my parking lights began working! I don't think that the fuses themselves had anything to do with the dash and parking lights, but as a consequence of my moving the wires around, I suspect that some of the wires that WERE related to the dash and parking lights were jostled into connecting. Unfortunately, after the dash lights were working I tried shaking the wires and I couldn't get them to even flicker. ( So now I have parking lights, dash lights and I suspect my trailer running lights will work too.

Thanks to all who contributed to this solution. Although there were several good ideas, I think substandard installation is ultimately at fault. I'll just have to wait for the lights to fail again and I'll then pay very close attention to the wires under the dash.

Steve