5.2L Towing Pains
Folks,
I am new to the forum. I have joined this forum to start learning about adding towing power to my 2001 5.2L Ram. Its a long bed, extenda cab with a cap. The rear end is limited slip and either a 3.75 or 3.55 (I don't remember). The only mods are larger plug wires and a K&N filter... just don't know much about this stuff. I am the original owner.
My problem began when I moved up from a small 16 foot boat to a heavy 20 foot boat. I now notice this extra weight when at highway speeds. I pretty much have to run with the O/D off or the tranny shifts up and down. I am looking to learn of modifcations that can be made that will give me more power between 50 and 70MPH and push my RMP's down from 3k to 2k or so at 70MPH.
I have begun researching the following:
headers
true dual exhaust
freer flowing catalytic converters
freer flowing mufflers
under pullies
chips
cold air intakes.
Any advice, past experiences, etc. would be appreciated.
I am new to the forum. I have joined this forum to start learning about adding towing power to my 2001 5.2L Ram. Its a long bed, extenda cab with a cap. The rear end is limited slip and either a 3.75 or 3.55 (I don't remember). The only mods are larger plug wires and a K&N filter... just don't know much about this stuff. I am the original owner.
My problem began when I moved up from a small 16 foot boat to a heavy 20 foot boat. I now notice this extra weight when at highway speeds. I pretty much have to run with the O/D off or the tranny shifts up and down. I am looking to learn of modifcations that can be made that will give me more power between 50 and 70MPH and push my RMP's down from 3k to 2k or so at 70MPH.
I have begun researching the following:
headers
true dual exhaust
freer flowing catalytic converters
freer flowing mufflers
under pullies
chips
cold air intakes.
Any advice, past experiences, etc. would be appreciated.
what would really help out would be a cooler thermostat and a programmer. with the programmer you would be able to adjust your shift points and calibrate the type of gas needed for extra pulling power. and the stat would let the engine run cooler giving it better performance. i beleive the truck has a 195 in it. simply switching it to a 180 would be a benefit
a programmer doesnt stay on the truck.. it plugs into the OSB port under the driver side dash and you program it.. then take it off.. you have to remember that magnum engines arent power plants.. they are nice unloaded and not hauling anything but under load your going to feel it.. my suggestion is:
50mm fastman throttle body
cold air intake
hypertech programmer/low temp stat
1.7rockers
high preformance cam
your truck has 3.55 stock gears in it.. i'd move up to 3.73 or 4.10's even. it'll help get the truck up and moving quicker and will allow you to be in over drive on the highway thus getting your rpms back to normal
loose the cap and just get a cover.. those things are heavy
with this it'll really help pulling around town and on the highway.. if all else fails supercharge it or get a hemi/diesel if you haul the boat alot
50mm fastman throttle body
cold air intake
hypertech programmer/low temp stat
1.7rockers
high preformance cam
your truck has 3.55 stock gears in it.. i'd move up to 3.73 or 4.10's even. it'll help get the truck up and moving quicker and will allow you to be in over drive on the highway thus getting your rpms back to normal
loose the cap and just get a cover.. those things are heavy
with this it'll really help pulling around town and on the highway.. if all else fails supercharge it or get a hemi/diesel if you haul the boat alot
towing in O/D is fine as long as it isn't shifting in and out of O/D alot. I always towed in O/D as long as I was above 60mpg and the tranny wasn't shifting alot and my tranny didn't finaly go out on me until I hit 256,xxx miles and I towed heavy lods very often.
going up in gears would help alot but your rpms will be higher at high speed. the best mod would be to ship your pcm to be reprogrammed and have "torque managment" removed. this give you around 50- 90 more hp and a buttload of torque. cost about $400-600 dollars but well worth it.
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Maybe before you go all out, maybe have a look at the trailer brakes and brearings to ensure that it isn't draging you down more than it should. MY 2 cents for what its worth.







