M1 Questions
Would a leaky gasket on the kegger cause high engine temps?
Does the M1 give better low, mid, high end power and less low, mid, high end power? I've heard different stories.
Does anyone have a pic of the bottom side of the M1 or the inside of it? The inside of the kegger looks like it'd be horrible for air flow with the way the runners are on the inside. Not sure if the M1 is like that too.
- thanks
Does the M1 give better low, mid, high end power and less low, mid, high end power? I've heard different stories.
Does anyone have a pic of the bottom side of the M1 or the inside of it? The inside of the kegger looks like it'd be horrible for air flow with the way the runners are on the inside. Not sure if the M1 is like that too.
- thanks
The kegger style of intake is actually a very good design. Leaving the runners as is will keep your low end torque but it does cause limits on the high end for HP.If your intake has the center divider in it I wouldrecommend you cut it out completely. If you are looking for top end HP gains, cut the runners back by1 1/2 inches. If low end torque is you main criteria, then only cut the runners by 1/2 inch. In both cases smooth and round the cut ends to look like they did beforecutting them.
The M1 intake will cause you to lose some low end torque, but it is said that more HP will be delivered on the top end. The M1 does not have a plenum plate like the kegger so getting an inside look of one of them isn't possible unless somebody has found a photo of one cut in two.
If your intake manifold gasket is leaking between the block and the manifold then yes you could experience high temperatures if engine coolant is leaking out of the engine or into thelifter galley. If your plenum gasket is leaking you would be sucking in oil from the lifter galley and the engine would be running lower in vacuum than it should. The oil would pass into your combustion chamber and the lower vacuum pressure would cause your MAP sensor to send signals to the engine computer that would cause it to make your engine run differently. Not sure if running hot would be part of that. If both the intake gasket and the plenum gasket were leaking I suppose engine coolant could be sucked into the intake and pushed into the combustion chamber. I think the coolant in the combustion chamber at the time of spark ignition would cause the motor to run hotter.
Good luck.
The M1 intake will cause you to lose some low end torque, but it is said that more HP will be delivered on the top end. The M1 does not have a plenum plate like the kegger so getting an inside look of one of them isn't possible unless somebody has found a photo of one cut in two.
If your intake manifold gasket is leaking between the block and the manifold then yes you could experience high temperatures if engine coolant is leaking out of the engine or into thelifter galley. If your plenum gasket is leaking you would be sucking in oil from the lifter galley and the engine would be running lower in vacuum than it should. The oil would pass into your combustion chamber and the lower vacuum pressure would cause your MAP sensor to send signals to the engine computer that would cause it to make your engine run differently. Not sure if running hot would be part of that. If both the intake gasket and the plenum gasket were leaking I suppose engine coolant could be sucked into the intake and pushed into the combustion chamber. I think the coolant in the combustion chamber at the time of spark ignition would cause the motor to run hotter.
Good luck.
I was told by both B&G and the Fastman (Dan) that the M1 will only give you low end loss if you are using a stock PCM. If you get B&G's M1 flash on your PCM, you will not see these losses since the PCM will be programmed to use the M1 the way it is intended. I have no first hand knowledge of this, just what I was told when I was asking these same questions.
Ah, now I know what people are talking about for cutting down the runners. That makes sense now, thanks. It sounds like the M1 wouldn't be too bad a swap even without a PCM burn if it gives some reassurance. It can't be that much of a loss in low end. Just trying to decide when this time comes if I should replace the kegger gasket kit from Hughes or with an M1. Not sure what the difference in price would be.
Also, I don't know that this is so much the problem but in the summer I do run a little on the warm side on the highway. I don't lose any coolant. Haven't really noticed the oil but I'll be keeping an eye on it. So wasn't sure if that plenum gasket would cause a high temp reading though.
Also, I don't know that this is so much the problem but in the summer I do run a little on the warm side on the highway. I don't lose any coolant. Haven't really noticed the oil but I'll be keeping an eye on it. So wasn't sure if that plenum gasket would cause a high temp reading though.
The M-1 is designed to make peak power from 3400 rpm up to and over 6200 rpm. Because the M-1 is a "single plane" intake port length is unequal, unlike a dual plane intake, where the runners snake over or under each other so thier lengths are equal.
Because of this design difference, dual plane intakes tend to be more bottom endy as longer runners speed up air velocity. They can also be less peaky as lengths can be adjusted for other breathing issues.While certain single planes can be tuned to function at low RPMs, generally runner volume is decreased and upper end power suffers. So most single plane intakes, like the M-1, are designed more for upper end applications.
BTW, you can use an M-1 succesfully in a truck. I disagree that you only need a reflash to make it happen. Since the M-1 makes it's pealk torque about 1500 rpm higher than a stock kegger, and peak horsepower around 6000 rpm, you need, A. a cam and valvetrain that can get you there safely, and B. gears to help mutiply the torque you need to launch a noise heavy barge with the aerodynamics of a brick.
But hey, theres probably a guy or 3 on here that'll tell you I'm full of horse poo, and they run an M-1 just fine on a stock truck. But I'm only repeating what Ma Mopar says..and frankly, moms never been wrong.
In the summer///try switching to a 180 degree stat, you'll run a tad cooler.
BTW, sharp eyes will note that the stock kegger is a single plane intake as well! One side of the plenum arches over to the other sides intake port. The benefit is that the keggers runners are equal length, just like a dual plane intake. The best of both worlds....?
Because of this design difference, dual plane intakes tend to be more bottom endy as longer runners speed up air velocity. They can also be less peaky as lengths can be adjusted for other breathing issues.While certain single planes can be tuned to function at low RPMs, generally runner volume is decreased and upper end power suffers. So most single plane intakes, like the M-1, are designed more for upper end applications.
BTW, you can use an M-1 succesfully in a truck. I disagree that you only need a reflash to make it happen. Since the M-1 makes it's pealk torque about 1500 rpm higher than a stock kegger, and peak horsepower around 6000 rpm, you need, A. a cam and valvetrain that can get you there safely, and B. gears to help mutiply the torque you need to launch a noise heavy barge with the aerodynamics of a brick.
But hey, theres probably a guy or 3 on here that'll tell you I'm full of horse poo, and they run an M-1 just fine on a stock truck. But I'm only repeating what Ma Mopar says..and frankly, moms never been wrong.
In the summer///try switching to a 180 degree stat, you'll run a tad cooler.
BTW, sharp eyes will note that the stock kegger is a single plane intake as well! One side of the plenum arches over to the other sides intake port. The benefit is that the keggers runners are equal length, just like a dual plane intake. The best of both worlds....?
I'm already running a 180 stat but this started last summer or the summer before I believe. Never had the issue before. It really sounds like power wise that I should keep the kegger but I don't want to deal with the gasket blowing again (if that really is the issue), especially if they are worse than the original (from what it seems from other posts). Is the Hughes kit any better or worth it?
the new gaskets for the belly pan are now a steel gasket, as long as the belly pan is strait, should not fail any longer. i am doing a 5.2 too 5.9 swap this month and between snow and tow i decided too keep a stock intake myself.



