i'll try to make this short. loud inconsistent grinding noise coming from truck. searched the forums, its either wheel bearings or the shift collar "walkin" over due to bad vacuum. take it to a mechanic, he says wheel bearings, cool, go buy both of those jokers and u joints and start wrenchin. get everything buttoned back up and its making the damn noise. there goes $500. i'm prettysure that its going to be the shift collar from what i read, which is alot of informationon this topic,

i went and got 16' of vacuum line so i hope this does it, so my question is...do i have to drop the t-case to get to the switch on the top, is there any trick that anyone knows on how to get this done effectively. i've already lost a week of downtime and honestly i cant keep riding my motorcycle in 30-40 degree weather!thanks in advance!

one more thing, what makes a brake caliper sieze shut, it is a brand new part and it is rubbing on the rotor, peddle goes all the way to thefloor and i have bled the crap out of them

 

bump

 

Maybe you could share the year and model of the truck. There's only 1 way your caliper can be rubbin against the rotor. You forgot pads!.lol. Which I doubt. Do you have the bushings and caliper slide pins lubed correctly?

When exactly does the truck make this "grinding noise"? 2wd, 4wd, forward, back, all speeds?

 

Only one caliper siezed? I've been told (though never experience it) that even a new caliper can sieze if the brake lines are old/damaged. Does the other caliper work? Are you sure the grinding noise isn't being caused by the caliper?

 

its a 96 1500 4x4 and the grinding happens in 2wd around 30mph and when i accelerate after that, let of the peddle and it will stop, its gotta be low vacuum, right

i originally went to get a caliper rebuild kit but the caliper was only $15 so i went ahead and bought both, the drivers side was the one at fault but i replaced them both. passenger side is dragging and peddle goes to the floor

 

Pedal goes to the floor, can be a few things. 1. Low vacuum. 2. Air in the brake lines. 3. Bad brake vacuum booster.

You bought a full caliper for $15? Was this at a junk yard? Are you using new pads? The calipers need to be free of air before they will function correctly. If you think the brake system is bled properly, then vacuum would be the next step.


You can start the truck, let it run for about 2 minutes, shut it off, and then immediately pull the hose/check valve from the brake booster. If you hear a loud "swoosh", chances are the booster is ok. Check the trucks vacuum with a gauge.


I think maybe you need to check them caliper installs a little better.


Good luck with your ride.

 

i know! it must of been a goof on there part. got em' from auto zone. the funny thing is the caliper listed for $15.99 and the core is $20. thats why i bought both. i may go buy all that they got

anyways the brakes where fine when i pulled it in to do the hubs. caliper wouldn't bolt up tight because of bad seals in the bolt holes thats why i replaced. i just put the old caliper back on waiting for a buddy to help me bleed em.

where is the swith on top of the t-case?