BRAKE BLEEDING?
I recently had to replace my driver's side front brake caliper and I lost a bit of the fluid. I now need to bleed the brakes cause they seem a bit soft and occasionally it goes to the floor. I need to know the best way to bleed the brakes. I think I should only have to bleed that line vs all them but whatever you guys can do to help me . Thanks.
Bleed any method you wish, pressure, vacuum, gravity.
Start at the rear right, then rear left, then front right, then front left. See if that doesn't make a difference. 2 guys make the job a lot easier. I stick with the old fashioned method of bleeding into a glass jar. I also pressure bleed so I usually bleed 1-2 quarts to ensure the air is gone. Then I even recheck it a few days later for the remaining micro bubbles that finally rose to the top.
If your pedal still travels to the floor, check your vacuum booster and vacuum check valves. Lines as well. (Unless you have a hydroboost).
Good luck with your ride.
Start at the rear right, then rear left, then front right, then front left. See if that doesn't make a difference. 2 guys make the job a lot easier. I stick with the old fashioned method of bleeding into a glass jar. I also pressure bleed so I usually bleed 1-2 quarts to ensure the air is gone. Then I even recheck it a few days later for the remaining micro bubbles that finally rose to the top.
If your pedal still travels to the floor, check your vacuum booster and vacuum check valves. Lines as well. (Unless you have a hydroboost).
Good luck with your ride.
Yeah, this is called the Gravity bleed method.
The below method illustrates how to do it on all 4 wheels simultaneously.
You can, with a minor method adjustment, do it 1 or 2 wheel(s) at a time (but time it consumes), so you decide which is best.
Steps:
1) Go to a pet supply store and get 10-12 feet of fish tank air line, it's basically clear plastic tubing:
Cut this tube into 4 equal size lengths. The easiest way is grab both ends, fold in half and cut. Then grab the 2 remaining pieces by the ends, fold in half and cut again, voila: 4 pieces of equal length, clear plastic tubing (roughly 2.5 - 3 feet in length, each).
2) Then, get a good amount of brake fluid (1 or 2 BIG bottles) and 4 clear cups or glass jars (bigger size is better), and some scissors.
3) Go to your truck, and start at any wheel but make sure you get a method or plan in place so you get all 4:
- Like FD, RD, RP, FP (F = front, D= driver, R= rear, P= passenger) for example.
4) Fill your first cup or glass jar with a little brake fluid (1/2 inch or so, just a little at the bottom).
5) Grab the plastic tubing, and loosen your first brake bleeder valve until it just starts to flow (less flow is better).
6) When it starts to flow, attach one end of the plastic tube to the valve and drop the other end into the cup:
- You may need to cut it off further with the scissors at this point, the end of the tube in the cup should be dipped into the brake fluid in there, you can also move the cup away from the valve so the tube hangs at a slant to adjust for imperfections in length, and slanted hanging tubes are better than straight down because air bubbles will flow out better at a slant.
- Just make sure you don't cut them too short lol.
7) Once you got the 1st one going, open up your brake fluid reservoir and add any fluid if needed. You should start seeing bubbles in the cup as the air is displaced by the flowing brake fluid: If the air gets stuck inside the tube, you should be able to hand-open the valve some more until enough fluids flows to blow out the air, then close it to where it flows slow again.
8) Go to wheel 2, repeat and then wheel 3 and 4... Yes, until you got all 4 going, this is why I said in step 5 a slow flow is best.
9) Once all 4 wheels are flowing, watch both the reservoir and the cups:
- Add fluid as needed to the reservoir, once air bubbles stop flowing out of the lines, you should be gtg but as a rule, I like to go through at least one full quart (the BIG bottle) of brake fluid in the process. Also, the faster you can get it flowing, the better your chances of getting all the air out, but slower is easier to keep track of, a best case compromise is recommended.
- Adjust the valves to where the flow is fast or slow enough where you don't lose track.
10) Once all is good, starting with wheel 1, shut down the valves in the order you opened them.
remove tubing, drain cups into a proper container and dispose of fluid properly, store tubing and cups in a cardboard box or plastic bag so you have the materials for your next time.
Hope that helps.
The below method illustrates how to do it on all 4 wheels simultaneously.
You can, with a minor method adjustment, do it 1 or 2 wheel(s) at a time (but time it consumes), so you decide which is best.
Steps:
1) Go to a pet supply store and get 10-12 feet of fish tank air line, it's basically clear plastic tubing:
Cut this tube into 4 equal size lengths. The easiest way is grab both ends, fold in half and cut. Then grab the 2 remaining pieces by the ends, fold in half and cut again, voila: 4 pieces of equal length, clear plastic tubing (roughly 2.5 - 3 feet in length, each).
2) Then, get a good amount of brake fluid (1 or 2 BIG bottles) and 4 clear cups or glass jars (bigger size is better), and some scissors.
3) Go to your truck, and start at any wheel but make sure you get a method or plan in place so you get all 4:
- Like FD, RD, RP, FP (F = front, D= driver, R= rear, P= passenger) for example.
4) Fill your first cup or glass jar with a little brake fluid (1/2 inch or so, just a little at the bottom).
5) Grab the plastic tubing, and loosen your first brake bleeder valve until it just starts to flow (less flow is better).
6) When it starts to flow, attach one end of the plastic tube to the valve and drop the other end into the cup:
- You may need to cut it off further with the scissors at this point, the end of the tube in the cup should be dipped into the brake fluid in there, you can also move the cup away from the valve so the tube hangs at a slant to adjust for imperfections in length, and slanted hanging tubes are better than straight down because air bubbles will flow out better at a slant.
- Just make sure you don't cut them too short lol.
7) Once you got the 1st one going, open up your brake fluid reservoir and add any fluid if needed. You should start seeing bubbles in the cup as the air is displaced by the flowing brake fluid: If the air gets stuck inside the tube, you should be able to hand-open the valve some more until enough fluids flows to blow out the air, then close it to where it flows slow again.
8) Go to wheel 2, repeat and then wheel 3 and 4... Yes, until you got all 4 going, this is why I said in step 5 a slow flow is best.
9) Once all 4 wheels are flowing, watch both the reservoir and the cups:
- Add fluid as needed to the reservoir, once air bubbles stop flowing out of the lines, you should be gtg but as a rule, I like to go through at least one full quart (the BIG bottle) of brake fluid in the process. Also, the faster you can get it flowing, the better your chances of getting all the air out, but slower is easier to keep track of, a best case compromise is recommended.
- Adjust the valves to where the flow is fast or slow enough where you don't lose track.
10) Once all is good, starting with wheel 1, shut down the valves in the order you opened them.
remove tubing, drain cups into a proper container and dispose of fluid properly, store tubing and cups in a cardboard box or plastic bag so you have the materials for your next time.
Hope that helps.
i agree with DD, easier to just get wifey out in the garage and let her pump the pedal and do it the old fashioned way seems faster, less trouble. i put a short piece of hose over the end of the bleeder and drain it into a can. i also like to bleed out all the old fluid and make it a flush - lots of nasty stuff comes out. just be sure to keep master cyl full or you have to start over.



