So I thought I had another plugged catalytic convertor, same symtoms as before, but with no way to check it myself, and hoping it was still covered under the extended warranty, I took it to the local worthless stealership.

Their diagnosis was a failing crankshaft position sensor. And of course they didn't have one in stock.

WTF, I just replaced the damn thing about a year and a half ago,as the wires on the original were so short they were appearantly stretched just to hook into the wire harness, and were literally pulling out of the sensor.

Ok, I've changed this before (royal PITA even if you are a friggen midget) and I desparetly need my snow beast running to plow the damn snow were are finally getting.

Pick up new sensor and after slicing one knukle wide open and alot of cussing....it's in.

Start up truck, CEL goes off....yeah!!! Idle is fair, revved it up a little. starts missing and surging. Let it idle some more.....stalls before hitting normal operating temperature. Won't start for nothing. CEL back on....aarrrrggghh!

Same symtoms as before changing the sensor, if not worse,now I'm getting pissed, $78.00 for an incorrect diagnosis and $67.00 for a sensor I didn't need and probably can't return.

Let cool off again (me and the truck)while I changed the oil. Started it up again. Now it's really running like crap and can barely keep it running. Stalls again and that's all she wrote. Now it refuses to start at all.

Cam and crank sensors have correct voltage supply. Checked the resistance on all the injectors, all in range. Don't have a noid light so not sure if the pcm is malfunctioning. Checked the ASD and fuel system voltage supply and tested their relays, all ok.

Question..... the ASD will shut down the fuel system and coil if it doesn't sense crank or cam position, correct? I ran short jumper wires off the #30 and # 87 terminals on the installedASD relay hooked to a continuity tester. With the key turned to the start or on position, I only get about two seconds of continuity, then nothing. Does this mean the pcm is sensing no signal and shutting down or is this normal?

I long for the good ole' days and wish I never sold my 'cuda. Simple and straightforward.

Any suggestions before I put a .50bmg through the block and end both our miseries????

 

You'll think I'm crazy because they're so simple, but I had a problem like this a few weeks ago.

Clean your TB, could be the IAC not letting any/enough air in.
Check your battery connections, mine were so crappy that the truck couldn't start at all, just clicking, but once it was started (jumped it) it can fine....until it was off again. So anyways bad connections can cause wierd things.


I guess first of all, get that code read!

Might be looking at a fuel pump

 

i was thinking, maybe the fuel pump

 

Sounds like fuel Pumpage to me

 

you paid $78 to read a code? you can buy a scanner for that price or you could go to autozone and have them do it for free.

 

Thanks for the replies....could be the TB, is a little dirty....suppose it could be the fuel pump too.

You would think the five star service tech would have checked and corrected those problems if that was the case. After all, he said the problem was justthe crank sensor, but he also wrote up a bunch ofpiddley (about $900.00 worth) stuff he wanted to fix. Tiny leak around thermostat, tiny leak from front cover, sepentine belt, cap and rotor, (brand new 6 months ago...LMAO) coolant, drill out cap bolts???? 1.5 hours labor for that, what ever the hell that means, I have no idea. Anyway, nothing he mentions that "needs" to be fixed, I don't feel,has anything to do with my current problem. He probably pulled the code for the crank sensor, and started looking to make some money. These dumbasses told me my belt was bad when I had 35,000 miles, LOL, well it's still the original belt at 138,000+. $53.00 for a belt and $43.00 to put it on.....ha ha ha ha....that's hilarious!! Give me a break.

Idon't have a code reader (I know, I know I should) but doing the redneck hillbilly "key on, off, on, off, on", the codes I got are as follows;

#22=Coolant sensor voltage too high / low. *Checked resistance on sensor, it's within range. Checked voltage to sensor, it's also in range....dunno??
#31=Problem with canister purge solenoid. *OOOOOPS....forgot to plug that back in before I tried to start...fixed that.
#42=ASD control short or open circuit. *Think I caused that one myself...tried to test voltage with tester still set to check continuity...Dooohh!
#54=Problem with position sensor synchronation circuit. *I'm thinking that code was never cleared after I replaced the original crank sensor. Don't know how long these codes stay in the pcm, but I had no way to erase it.

Socha_62.....battery and connections are fine.....give me a little credit...LOL....if only it was that simple. Turns over just fine...almost sounds a little faster than usual, if that means anything.

Popped a couple plugs out of each side just for the hell of it, clean as a whistle, gap looks fine, no oil fouling or wetness.

The more I think about it, it is sounding like the fuel pump. It's about the only thing I haven't tested. Don't have a pressure gauge, so looks like I'll be investing in one tomorrow. I can hear the pump "whirring" for a couple seconds when I key on. I even tried keying on 3-4 times rapidly to build pressure as mentioned here to no avail. Maybe the filter is plugged.

I didn't realize, when I was replacing the crank sensor, I had moved the coil and plug wires out of the way. In my haste to get this done, I put the plug wires back in their correct clips, but left the coil wire laying along the inside of the valve cover. It was right along the wiring harness to the injectors. The wires are aftermarket, not OEM's, 7.5 or 8mm, can't remeber offhand. Hope that didn't screw something up.

Again, thanks for the suggestions. You guys rock.

 

a fuel pressrue tester might be a good idea... before you buy that, turn the truck on and take the cap fuel rail and stick a nail or something in there and see if it squirts gas out at ya.

it could save you a couple bucks

 

If the first time you took it to this place and seem to get rip offwhy take it back again ? Oh here you gocheck your tire pressure that mite be the problem .......

 

And all this time I thought it was the muffler bearings....silly me.....

Come back when you're sober...maybe you'll have some worthwhile input then...maybe not....

ALL dealerships will TRY to rip you off.....re-read my post....still got the original belt, and I have no intention of letting them do anything they feel "needs" to be done.All **** I can easily do myself, and not a major issue at this time.Yes, they soaked me on the diagnosis, and they are going to have to deal with me FIRST thingMonday morning. I can assure you, it won't be pleasant for them.Back in 1986 I witnessed some things in their service bay that were unbelievable. Went and told the poor old lady what they were doing to her....whether she did anything, I don't know. They'll all take you if you let them.

Only reason I took it to these crooks is they are less than a mile from where I live, and was able to limp it over there. Would have cost a hell of alot more to have it towed to Autozone or elsewherefor a "free" read and towed back to my garage,with probably the same results. There aren't any real mechanics around here that'll do a diagnosis for less than $50.00, and of course they are always backed up for weeks.

timwag2001...thanks....that'll tell me whether or not I'm getting fuel at the rails, but not if it's adequate pressure/volume...ie semi-plugged filter orscreen, bad pressure regulator, weak pump. I'll try it first to make sure the pump isn't dead or line isn't plugged.

 

i hate autozone! they always are rude, screw something up or don't have what i need. I like napa.