I just put 35's on my truck and the first thing that went out was my cylinder's in my drums. I thought about puttin a rotor conversion on the rear but it seems expensive. Either way, in the front my rotors are causing alot of bounce and the brake pad is clickin when i turn from the rotor being so warped. Can you get larger rotors and if so whats the size allowed? Or would it be better to get drilled and slotted rotors, does the bettercooling actually make a difference or is this one of those things you really dont need for a truck? It would be nice to have someone with a similar problem to let me know how they solved it.

 

My OEM rotors warped with only a little over 30k on the odometer, so I replaced them with Brembo slotted rotors. Braking was greatly improved, and I am very happy.

Be cautious though when buying drilled and/or slotted rotors. Most companies take an OEM grade rotor (gray iron, SAE specified J431 G3000), and drill holes in them or slot them. That actually makes them weaker then the OEM rotor in its original form. A drilled or slotted rotor should be designed to be drilled or slotted. This means it should have added nickel, chromium, molybdenum, or vanadium to the alloy (nickel is the most common used) to make the rotor stronger so it can be drilled and not lose its strength. My Brembos are a chromium-nickel enhanced alloy. I think KVR makes a quality rotor too from what I have read.

As far as your question about whether they are needed for a truck, I think it depends on how you drive your truck. For just daily driving, probably not. If you tow or haul heavy loads, off-road hard, go to the track, or simply run large diameter tires that add extra stess to the braking system (it can take as little as 3% difference in tire size before you are beyond the design limits of the stock brake components), then you might want to consider a rotor upgrade. Guys who like to play in the mud swear that drilled rotors make a big difference. I can't speak for that though. For me, it includes towing trailers and loads coming down some intense mountain passes (many that are so intense, they have mandatory pull-offs for brake cooling). Even with trailer brakes, the trucks brakes get a serious workout. In those situations, I do think a better rotor is warrented, so that is why I upgraded.

You can see pics of my rotors in the link in my sig.

 

Cross-drilling isn't for cooling ... it's to allow for gasses generated during braking to escape from between the pad and rotor eliminating fade. Not sure if slotting cools but I suspect that it also prevents fade for much the same reason as drilling.

If you're looking for better braking in the rear for next to nothing, read this: https://dodgeforum.com/m_498851/tm.htm

 

I used to have a Grand Am GT and the difference in braking between the cross-drilled rotors and the oem was incredible. It was four wheel disc though so the difference was felt at all four tires. I'm not exactly sure what you'd feel with just the fronts. They definitely help to disipate heat allowing for a better braking surface. However, when you first get some on, they may smoke a bit for the first couple stops if the coating they put on them (strictly to prevent rust during storage) wasn't completely wiped off. Your pads will wear slightly faster though, but I didn't notice too big of a deal considering the improvement I received.

 

Powerslot rotors and the organic green pads (EBS?)seem to be a popular combination. I personally wouldnt do the drilled rotors on a HD application, slotted are the way to go. Maybe steveram will chime in as he had them on his 2nd generation.

 

I did Power Stop pads & rotors on my 2000... greatly improved braking and no problems with them over 25000 miles.

 

Hey Steve were thosejust slotted not drilled?