Couple more questions:
What plugs can you/should you run with this ignition?
What gap?
Any special cap and rotor needed?
What coil is the best to go with this ignition?
Any minimum requirements on battery size?

 

i mean this with the upmost.. blaster3.. mainly b/c the PCM is picky when it comes to its coil.. if the PCM "sees" a lower or higher resistance to the coil.. she throws a fit and gets mad.. the blaster 3 is the best matched up to the stock coils resistance input...

i run autolite (-1 heat range then stock) and gap them to .40.. IIRC the stock is from .30 to .35 and also IIRC me , RMindy, and steve and a good convo going on what the best spark is.. for the added spark from the 6A and coil combo i stuck with .40 gap.. i play around with it sometimes but .40 has been the best for me.. obviously Indy's situation is a weee bit different then ours .. lol

hopes this helps silver!

 

if the resistance is so close with the blaster 3 do you still need to install the resistor that they recommend you buy with it?

 

that must be a new"er" model.. the blaster3 i put in didnt have any directions stating a aux resistor.. mines straight wired with no problems.. thats why i picked the 3 b/c it was best matched to the resistance.

 

im sorry, i think i was thinking about the off road coil.

do you go off road at all shott?

 

Recommended coil
6a and 6al is the regular blaster coil
The digital 6 is the blaster hvc coil
The digital 7 is the blaster hvc II coil
Lookingat the hvc II coils description though they recommend it for any msd 6 ignition so seems like any coilyou choose will be better than stock

NA on my mild 360 I was running .045 gap with the digital 6+, blaster coil and taylor 8mm wires. Ive run Bosch plats (not +2 or +4/crap) for the longest time and had the NGKs for a little while. With the 360 blown, Auto Lite 3923s with .035 gap. Probably reduce it to .030 when Ioverdrive the blower.
Personally I wouldnt run a gap over .050 if NA.

 

I was really wanting to do this mod, but the thought of having to go through the hassle of replacing the cap and rotor more often then I already do is making me rethink it. It is such a pain to get access to the cap if you don't have a body lift.

 

no comment [:'(][:'(][:'(]

lol.. yes and no.. i really dont haveanywhere to go OR'ing except my driveway when it rains.. regardless of my time constrants . so.. no not really.. man i suck




silver.. dude just get a 2" BL.. problem solved.. you know you wanna go bigger.

 

I called MSD about my questions, and they said:

For plugs, they said to keep my current 3923's. They said the cooler temp range will be a good thing. They said I should just gap them wider, like .045 or .050.
They said to go with the Blaster 2 or the Blaster SS coil. Anyone using one of these?

They could not say if I would go through caps faster, but it sounds like I probably will. This is a down side to me, and is making me think twice about this mod. Plus, I have the added expense of also needing new wires. If I do get one though, I think I am going to get the Offroad box. It does cost more, but I like the piece of mind that it won't have problems when I am up in the mountains or when I get snow up in my engine bay like I have done several times this year due to the blizzards.

Shott,
I was already wanting to get a BL anyway but I have concerns about it because it decreases the amount of weight you can safely put in the bed. I am still going bigger though, by just a little bit. I am going to change my 2" coils out for 3" coils. That will hold me until the next time I am ready to buy tires, then I will go up some more depending on what size tire I want to buy. 3" is about as big as I want to go with 285's. Much more, and the tires will look to small.