Another Trans cooling line problem (96 Ram, Auto)
Here's the cooler, mounted on the A/C condenser. Someday I'll build brackets.
And the return line from the cooler, hose clamped. Mine was shorter because I already had a cooler, you can adapt brake line and a hose nipple.
[IMG]local://upfiles/21672/08B90B6D430B4331AC4505B7A4ABD805.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/21672/CED40C57BEBD402D8BF1ED48E3F6C6A8.jpg[/IMG]
And the return line from the cooler, hose clamped. Mine was shorter because I already had a cooler, you can adapt brake line and a hose nipple.
[IMG]local://upfiles/21672/08B90B6D430B4331AC4505B7A4ABD805.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/21672/CED40C57BEBD402D8BF1ED48E3F6C6A8.jpg[/IMG]
DD56, thanks for the pics!!
On the ends where you only have a hose clamp holding the rubber hose to the metal line, did you flare the end of the metal line or anything??
I found some 3/8 hose barb fittings with 1/4-18 NPT thread on the other side. I don't suppose anyone knows rather this thread pitch will screw into either end w/ the check valve or the exit from the rad, do ya? I suppose I could just go by trial and error, but I'd like to get all the parts before I get started....
On the ends where you only have a hose clamp holding the rubber hose to the metal line, did you flare the end of the metal line or anything??
I found some 3/8 hose barb fittings with 1/4-18 NPT thread on the other side. I don't suppose anyone knows rather this thread pitch will screw into either end w/ the check valve or the exit from the rad, do ya? I suppose I could just go by trial and error, but I'd like to get all the parts before I get started....
No...it had barbs on it from the crimp connectors.
The truck connectors are flare fittings, your NPT stuff won't work. Pipe thread, as you can see, is a tapered thread.
The truck connectors are flare fittings, your NPT stuff won't work. Pipe thread, as you can see, is a tapered thread.
The incoming line (w/ the check valve)disconnected easily with wrenches. I was left with a nice clean ribbed end on my metal line. Heated up the rubber hose (hair dryer) slipped it over, and a hose clamp later it was good. After 2 trips to the auto parts store for quick-lok removal tools that didn't work for ****!! I busted out the Dremel. That took care of removing the old fitting! Old leaky rubber hose out and on to install the new rubber hose. The flare tool wouldn't fit. The existing rib/barb was WAY to tall to get the hose around. So, Home Depot had some brass compression fittings that worked. One was 3/8 compression to 3/8 FIP thread, the other was a 3/8 barb fitting to 3/8 MIP thread. Well, a little high temp pipe sealant and the 2 went together beautifully! I can now 'swage' my fittings onto the steel line coming out of the rad and be able to clamp my rubber hose to the other end. Last night I started it up, let it run for 15 min, took it for a test drive, and I wiped a tiny bit of pink from the area. So I wasn't completely satisfied, but it was drivable. This morning I checked the fitting again when I got here to work....nothing! Bone dry, no pink fluid at all. I'll check again tonight when I get home. I'll keep an eye on it just to make sure. But for $5.00, it seems to be working. As tight as they are, I'm surprised I can rotate them on the metal line. As long as it doesn't leak I'm cool w/ it!!!
Next step, add in the aux cooler. I can take some pics if anyone needs more info, andwhat has worked for me...so far.



