Your timing is adjusted by the computer so nothing you did threw it out. That line in the cap you say is barely carved makes me wonder. Carved by what? That should not happen. I would still double check the wiring diagram. Believe me even with the book in front of you mistakes happen. And yes plug gaps can cause some of the problems you describe. Usually the guys changing them also have aftermarket ignition systems that are higher output. If your ignition is stock then you would be better off with the stock gap. I agree with the larger wires your problems isprobablynot with them touching or crossing.

 

is the line on the top of the cap or bottom?
if its the top it probally is marking the number one cylinder

 

Another thing you could check is to make sure the camshaft position sensor is seated correctly. It's in the bottom of the distributor cap under the rotor. It's probably not the problem but since you replaced the cap and rotorand it's not easy work in there, it might be worth double checking that everythingseated properly.

[IMG]local://upfiles/32197/67ACC89D544445E3B336722DD075BBB0.jpg[/IMG]

Edit: FYI there's a downloadable service manual in this thread https://dodgeforum.com/m_491292/tm.htm

 

Hey All,

First off, thanks for all the replies. I just got back from Canadian Tire with some new toys to put to good use. About that line, no, it's not the number one on the top of the dist. cap. It's a horizontal line that appears to have been scored into the dist. cap by possibly the metal tip of the rotor? But I find that odd, since I properly seated the dist. cap to it's mount before tightening it down.

The parts I grabbed from NAPA are marked (on the box) MO29 CAP with a small 456 off to the side. On the rotor the box is marked MO26 ROTOR with a small 426 off to the side. About to dig back in there and check the gap, with luck, that is all it is. I will also check the sensor as suggested (thanks a lot for that piece of information as well!)

Chad.

 

Sounds like the cap is toast. Cross fire will cause that problem. Make it act like the wires are crossed.

 

Yup ..if its on the inside of the cap between two plugs, the high voltage charge from the coil is probably following the line and misfiring both. Even though it's not black, it could be a carbon track. I'd reuse your old cap and try itor buy a new one. With todays crummy manufacturing, I check my caps thoroughly for casting flash or mold lines that can cause arcing.

 

Okay, I've taken off all the wires, I've removed all the plugs and gapped them (as best as I could, this tool I grabbed was utter ****) and have put them back in. I've removed the dist. cap and rotor, and have included a picture of that "scarring" I see on the inside. Perhaps a picture will help someone diagnose it. I'm going to head over to the Chrysler dealership to grab these clips I need, and even if it doesn't necessarily fix it up, it will certainly clean up the wires a bit. Any more insight, as always, is greatly appreciated.

Chad.

Edit: I tried uploading the pictures here, it said it was successful; however, I don't see them - here is a link to a photobucket address with four pictures of the inside of the dist. cap.

http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l135/C_Thain/

 

The poping noise sounds like arcing of the spark. Are all the wires firmly seated on the plugs?

 

That picture looks like the rotor was scraping against the cap side. Kinda hard to tell. If that was the case then the cap was not seated properly.

 

Ya, I'd say a new cap and rotor are in order. I'm also thinking you may not have got it seated properly and if it was cocked a bit the rotor may have beenhitting the side.

Edit: I know I didn't have fun when changing mine and I had my throttle body off at the time, which gave me more room. Definitely not a ton a room back there.