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Engine Problem

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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 12:27 AM
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Hey All,

This is my first post. I recently purchased a 1999 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 Sport model with a 5.9L. I've been reading these forums a lot, even before purchasing my vehicle as part of my research. I don't know a HELLUVA lot about the mechanical aspects, but I enjoy learning and am definitely about trying it myself before taking it to someone else.

With that said, after doing the research here, I decided to change my plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor. I picked up Autolites #3923, MSD Wires #32189, and a Napa Premium Dist. Cap and Rotor. I picked up a manual as well in order to guide me. Marked each wire prior to taking them off. Then removed each plug. Then finally after some annoyance, removed the dist. cap and rotor (Had to remove the air cleaner as well). Prior to putting everything back, I put some anti-sieze on the plugs, and also put di-electric grease on the plugs, boots, and the dist. cap and rotor. Went through it one at a time, reinstalling everything and zap strapping it nice and clean (Seems the thicker wires didn't want to fit into the stock wire clamps). All that said and done, I was a tad nervous when I started it up but she started up right away no problems. So I figured I'd done alright, but apparently not.

As I began to drive home, I noticed at lower speeds and rpm's I was feeling almost like a hesitation, and I was even beginning to hear a bit of a popping noise. I altered my speed a lot on the drive home, thinking it would work itself out - but apparently not. Once home, I started up the engine and began to unplug each wire one at a time thinking maybe I had a faulty plug. Every time I unplugged, the engine ran a little rougher and as I was plugging it back in, I'd hear a snapping sound before finally pushing the boot back onto the plug. It idles just fine, it's only when I'm driving - giving it throttle. Any thoughts? Is it possible I put the air cleaner back on properly? Yeah... I know this is a long post, but I'd rather say EVERYTHING I did and let someone with knowledge diagnose the problem as opposed to having to ask more questions.

Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Chad.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 01:16 AM
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ThainC
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Hrm, after some more searching on these forums about my problem, I've come across a TSB about the routing of the wires having to be identicle, and something about wires not touching at all. Going to try and force the wires into the stock clamps and see if I can make something of it. Anyone agree/disagree with this idea?

Thanks,
Chad.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 01:43 AM
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Default RE: Engine Problem

Stupid questions, but here goes, Are all the plugs tight? also did you put that grease on the rotor button or anywhere inside the distributor?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 02:35 AM
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All the plugs are tight, yes, and there is some grease inside the distributor. Just on the bits of the brass on the inside of the distributor, and on the metal tip of the rotor. When I pulled the old one off, I saw corrosion on the inside of the cap on the brass connectors. Still learning, so did I go and commit a sin? Do I need to deal with taking off the dist. cap again and removing the di-electric grease?

Thanks,
Chad.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 03:24 AM
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Default RE: Engine Problem

The first thing I did when I bought my '99 Ram QC truck last November was to change the plugs, cap and rotor. The mistake I made was not checking the plug gap. As soon as I completed the tune-up the truck was running rough (even stalled once). I seperated the plug wires, changed the IAC, made sure the air filter was tight, etc. Finally gave-up, took it to the dealer and they found that the #1 spark plug wasn't gapped properly, which was frustrating since I'd bought plugs from the dealer and was told that they were "pre-gapped". Oh well, guess I know for next time.

Good luck!

--Kevin
'99 Ram 1500 QC 5.9, mostly stock.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 04:26 AM
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Okay... Getting more and more frustrated with this. Tore off the distributor cap, cleaned out all the dielectric grease. Noticed there is a horizontal line between two of the brass terminal, possibly scared in by the rotor? But I find that rather odd. I took off all the goop, re-attached it, cursed a little, plugged in the wires and cursed more during that process. I also got all the wires into their clips, though I'm not sure if there is a specific order they are supposed to be in on those clips. Got that all done, tossed her in reverse to back out of the drive way and applied a small amount of gas - same issue. Massive tremble through out the vehicle. Not sure if it's a mis-fire or what you want to call it - just the whole vehicle shakes when I apply gas. That being said, it idles JUST fine.

Any thoughts? Could really use some feed back. I'll have to check the gap I guess, they were supposed to be pre-set. I'll pick up a gapping tool tomorrow. For a 99 5.9L it's a .035 gap, correct? Or is it .040?

Thanks,
Chad.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 04:47 AM
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Default RE: Engine Problem

The gap is supposed to be .040 and u should definitely check the gap and you didnt throw off the timing or anything did you? That could happen.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 04:51 AM
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Default RE: Engine Problem

Excellent job on everthing so far, but the di-electric grease actually helps seal eletrical contacts from water and the elements without conducting electricity itself. so while it's good for the spark plug and battery connections it's not good for the distributor where the energy has to jump the small gap. I would double check and make sure the contacts are clean in the distributor and then take the truck for a good run it'll probably burn off any residual with a little luck.

Most of the time the spark plugs come properly gapped, but it's always good to check. My 5.2L gap is .040".

Edit: Welcome to the site and I hope your problem is this simple. Good luck.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 05:13 AM
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I agree get the grease cleaned out of distributor cap. Make sure cap is seated downtightly. You mention a horizontal line in cap. Can you be a little more specific. It isn't a crack is it? From your post it sounds like you also put grease on the plugs themselves. The grease only goes on the boots. Just to be sure I would clean them up. Did you get wires back on in right order? You may have crossed up a couple of cylinders. I have done that and it acts exactly like you describe. I don't have the right firing order in front of me but I know it has been posted here before. Get that diagram and check it. As for the wire routing there is a TSB that has been posted here concerning that. It is pretty specific as to the routing. Search the forum for it and give it a try. Ideally you should always try to avoid wires touch or crossing. If they do cross try to make it at a 90 degree angle. I don't think that is your problem since you put in larger wires I wouldn't think they would have same problem. It wouldn't hurt to re-route them per TSB anyway. And yes, if you did not originally, check the plug gap. Rarely have I found them to be properly gapped out of the box. Don't Panic you'll figure it out and learn from the experience.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 05:22 AM
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Like I said, I took off the cap and really cleaned it all out. I wasn't sure if it should go in there, and probably should have just held off but I figured I'd toss it in anyways. Now it's entirely cleaned off. The grease is only on the ends of the plugs (that is, the part where the boot connects) and on the top of the dist. cap where the other end of the wires plug in. As for the line in the dist. cap, it's a perfectly horizontal line just barely carved into the plastic. It's only between two of the brass pieces (not sure of the exact name part). It's most definitely not a crack.

I'm going to rip off to Canadian Tire (Yeah, from BC myself) and pick up a gap checking tool and adjustor and check it out tomorrow. Would such a simple thing REALLY cause that much of a problem? Especially since I read all about people adjusting their gaps to various degrees. A few of my wires touch, mainly just because they are all going the same way. Plus, I'd thought the thicker wire would allow me to avoid any mis-firing.

I had the Haynes manual in front of me when I ran the wires and connected them, so they most certainly should be in the right order. THAT being said, once I've double checked the gap I will check an alternate source (ie. Here!) for the order that they are supposed to go on and make sure they are the same. Thanks for all the responses. I wish it was light out, I very much hate this feeling of going to bed knowing my truck isn't in perfect running order.

Will keep y'all posted,
Chad.

Edit: Forgot to ask, how could I have thrown the timing out? I was a bit worried about that. When I took the rotor off to clean it, and then put it back on, I tried turning it either way and noted it didn't move and assumed there would have been little chance of me accidentally turning it when I first removed it.


 
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