GUNK Motor Flush question
My truck is due for an oil change and I was told to use GUNK Motor Flush before changing oilin my 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 pick-up in order to clean the engine because of the high millage (98K). My question is...: has anybody in this forum use it before? Does it reallywork dissolving sludge,gums and varnishes from engine and oil pan?
I never had anyengine problem and its running as good as new. Do you thinkits worth using this product? Do I really 'need' to use it? I usually change oil every 3000 miles. [sm=feedback.gif]............Thanks [sm=deal.gif]
I never had anyengine problem and its running as good as new. Do you thinkits worth using this product? Do I really 'need' to use it? I usually change oil every 3000 miles. [sm=feedback.gif]............Thanks [sm=deal.gif]
If your truck has had the engine oil changed every 3k miles religiously, I wouldn't flush it. If the oil turns black within the first 1,000 miles after changing it, it would probably benefit. Of further note is the flush is expensive ($8 / quart or so) and is made mostly with Kerosene (at least it smells, looks and feels exactly like keros)... Now the first time around I would get the expensive stuff as it has directions you most likely want to follow. But once you got the method down, if you simply get yourself a 1/4 gallon of kerosene into an approved container (you can probably use an empty plastic quart of oil bottle that's been used) at a petrol station, you'll likely be out less than a dollar, at a cost of what, $2.79 / gallon...
But yes, doing the flush can and will help loosen heavy deposits and sludge.
And, here's the directions to follow:
Warm the engine up to OpTemp.
Drain (add) 1 quart of flush (kerosene) into the oil, just like you would when adding oil to it.
Run the engine for 8 minutes at pure idle speed (don't drive it lol).
Cut the engine off, and change the oil and filter immediately.
Don't forget to refill the oil, and check for leaks.
Start the engine, and let it run on idle until the oil light goes off.
That's it!
But yes, doing the flush can and will help loosen heavy deposits and sludge.
And, here's the directions to follow:
Warm the engine up to OpTemp.
Drain (add) 1 quart of flush (kerosene) into the oil, just like you would when adding oil to it.
Run the engine for 8 minutes at pure idle speed (don't drive it lol).
Cut the engine off, and change the oil and filter immediately.
Don't forget to refill the oil, and check for leaks.
Start the engine, and let it run on idle until the oil light goes off.
That's it!
Don't use it.
I used it on my old 88 318 and had oil pump relief valve problems imeadiatly. the only cure was remove the pan and clean every thing by hand including taking the pump apart.
I used it on my old 88 318 and had oil pump relief valve problems imeadiatly. the only cure was remove the pan and clean every thing by hand including taking the pump apart.
The stuff is amazing. I don't know about $8 a quart though. Mine was like $2.50 for the quart (you only use one).
Yes it dissolves a whole bunch of nastiness in your engine. Yes it can clear valvetrain rattle / noise. Yes it can "possibly" lead to engine damage if the engine is neglected and you try to use the stuff as a engine-fix-in-a-can. It seems to be an awesome PM thing though..... and if it means anything, 98k miles would be a very good time to start. Maybe every 30k thereafter.
Ummmm, I don't know about running straight kerosene through your engine. I've done it, but I had nothing to lose either. The flush is primarily kerosene but you need to read what else is in there, and what it does, and make the call yourself.
Yes it dissolves a whole bunch of nastiness in your engine. Yes it can clear valvetrain rattle / noise. Yes it can "possibly" lead to engine damage if the engine is neglected and you try to use the stuff as a engine-fix-in-a-can. It seems to be an awesome PM thing though..... and if it means anything, 98k miles would be a very good time to start. Maybe every 30k thereafter.
Ummmm, I don't know about running straight kerosene through your engine. I've done it, but I had nothing to lose either. The flush is primarily kerosene but you need to read what else is in there, and what it does, and make the call yourself.
I use it at every oil change (20K miles give or take a couple K) even though I never build up sludge (doesn't happen when you run straight synthetic). If you've been running dino oil for a while and THEN use it ... you might need to pull and clean out your pan prior to puting fresh oil in ... depending on how long it's been. It WILL dissolve sludge and varnish and all that crap then winds up in the bottom of the pan (too thick to drain) where it WILL get circulated back through the engine and clog up your new filter right away.
The stuff costs about $3.99 for Gunk and about $2.99 for the "knock off" brand (Golden Seal, I think) ... and it's not kerosene ... more like varnish remover.
The stuff costs about $3.99 for Gunk and about $2.99 for the "knock off" brand (Golden Seal, I think) ... and it's not kerosene ... more like varnish remover.





