Alright, I need some help replacing my pads and rotors, and help finding the best prices on decent quality products. I have a 96 2wd with drums in front and discs in back. What is the best process to replace everything? BTW..I have anti-lock brakes and have never done brakes before..i've always tried to avoid them...any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance.

 

Durlast gold i believe have a lifetime warranty which means u can just take em back in to autozone when your ready to change em agian and will get brand new ones for free. The only problem is that they leave a greasy coat of brake dust on your front rims. I have em and i dont mind washing my rims every week As for changing them buy a Hayne's book they come in handy and will help you understand your truck better

 

Drums in front?
Discs in the rear?

This is first for me. I've always seen drums in the rear and discs in the front.
Well anyway, I use brake cleaner first to clean around the area where I will be working on.

Put something in the front and rear of tire that you are not working at the moment to prevent it from accidentally moving, etc.
For the disc pad replacement, typically you may need a torx bit or hex bit to remove the two bolts holding the caliper. I use a breaker bar to help me loosen the two big bolts. I then use a prybar or similar to pry out the caliper out of the disc rotor. Also, sometimes there is a nut holding the flexible brake line which you need to remove. I use a rope to hold the caliper to the suspension coil. I use a tool called brake pad spreader to push the caliper piston back in http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis24400.html which I just put the old pad in the middle between the piston and the brake pad spreader tool and turn the **** to push piston back in and just back the **** to remove and remove the old pad. Put the new brake pad in. Put back the caliper in place and put back the two bolts. I usually use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the right specs.

For the drum brakes, try to make a note of where each item goes and put them next to each other as you remove them for example the two springs, adjustment rod, the middle spring at the bottom, etc. I usually use a large plier and large flat hear screw driver to remove the two large springs and also to put it back on. There is a retaining spring holding in the brake shoes in the middle in which you have to push/turn this round retaining washer with either a tool http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt285.html or pliers. Putting this back on you would have to push it from behind the drum while you put the round retaining washer against the spring.

Take your time and do it early as it may take you a while to finish all 4 brakes pad/shoes.

 

Here's an old post that might be of interest:
---
Over the past 3 weeks I have been changing out the brakes on my 1995 model
year 1500 Ram ClubCab 2wd.

The original factory front pads and rear shoes were changed out on this truck
back at 61,000 miles. Chrysler instruction sheet K6855323AB says these
original brake parts were a "Delco 243EE" set, although the front pads had
markings that said:

DM 128FE 7259/0 2/1 on the outboard pad
DM 128FE 8154 7259-1 1/1 on the inboard pad
Delco243EE**Delco243EE on rear shoes

I changed these original brake parts to 'improved' Mopar Replacements that
were recommended by Dodge in 1998 to improve brake performance in 1994-BR/BE
1996 Ram Truck 1500 Series.

This was a $156 kit bought at the dealer, part number 05013447AA.
I wrote up a report to DiRT on this Thu Apr 08 07:27:13 1999.

The instruction sheet K6855323AB included with the kit says that the improved
brake parts are a "Delco 224 FF" set of front pads BXH3EEE9278127E matched
with special rear shoes that are indeed marked Delco224FF.

These brake parts lasted on my truck from 61,000 miles to 140,000 miles, at
which time the front pads still had 3/16 inch thickness, but the rear shoe
thickness had worn away enough that the rivets had scored the brake drum
surface. I have to admit both styles of Delco parts lasted for a very good
life.

Prior to taking off the Delco 224FF brake parts I did 5 full stops with the
truck from 60 mph on a level asphalt road in dry 60-70 degree weather. I
would accelerate up to 60 mph then hit the brake pedal when I felt the front
tires hit an expansion joint in the road. I measured from the expansion joint
to where the nose of the truck stopped with a tape measure.
Results were:

219 feet
223 feet
204 feet
228 feet
197 feet
Average = 214 feet

When I had Bridgestone Dueler HL 245 75 R16 tires on this truck the tire tread
had so much dry traction that I could not cause the tires to skid in a panic
stop from 60 mph no matter how hard or quickly I hit the pedal.

In the above 5 tests I found that with Michelin LTX MS 245 75 R16 tire tread
pattern and rubber the truck would skid easily.

I have the standard Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) system built by Kelsey Hayes,
not the optional ABS system.

Much of the variation from the worst 223 feet to the best 197 foot stop I feel
was due to skidding causing me to release the pedal momentarily. Even so, I
developed a flat spot on one of the rear wheels and there is now a slight
vibration - or maybe the Bendix drums aren't balanced properly.

I put Bendix AF462 shoes ($32.99) on the rear
with new Bendix #140660 drums ($54)
{both the above drums had 2 disturbing big balance weights welded to them}
replaced star wheel adjusters on both sides:
1531/F73182S USA Brake Parts ($12)
1530/F73181S, "Made in USA"
{the two sides have different left/right threads}
and replaced the original 1500 series
15/16 inch dia wheel cylinders with
1 and 1/16 inch diameter wheel cylinders:
TruTorque W79767/Raybestos WC37290 ($11) "Made in Italy"
that are standard equipment on 3500 series Rams.

The larger wheel cylinders
with their 28% greater piston area
bolted right in with no modifications needed.

With just the rear shoes changed to Bendix,
and wheel cylinders changed out to the larger diameter,
I did 5 more 60-0 stops:

199 feet
208
220
195
210
Average = 206 feet

I then:
changed the front pads to Bendix MKD369FM ($54.39),
polished the 4 rusty caliper sliding surfaces with a abrasive rubber wheel on
a Dremel tool,
lubed these 4 surfaces with a coating of NeverSieze the thickness of a
cigarette paper,
lubed the caliper bolts and sleeves with 10 drops of "BreakFree",
flushed and bled the brake fluid using two large bottles of Valvoline SynPower
Dot 3/4 brake fluid,
-- and then did 6 more 60-0 stops:

176 feet
191
177
200
167
192
Average = 184 feet

On these 6 stops the brake pedal had a good 'progressive' feel that allowed me
to stop with less skidding, but I think the pedal is not as firm as it should
be if all the air bubbles were out of the lines. I intend to bleed the 4
brakes again.

{Why did Dodge put a different size brake bleeder fitting on the rear versus
the front? Why is the front bleeder a metric wrench size, and the rear one
English?}

It is possible that I am feeling more brake pedal movement because it takes
28% more brake fluid to move the larger rear cylinders the same distance.

The above numbers are not as precise as I would like,
but my best guess is that these changes improved the
rear brakes about 4%,
and the front brakes improved about another 6%.

I feel better knowing I can stop about 30 feet shorter now.

My best two stops from 60 mph were 167 ft and 176 feet.

The best sports cars stop in 110-120 feet from 60 mph - at least according to
magazine reviews.

I guess we should all leave an extra 60-70 feet between our trucks and a
sports car in front of us - because they can stop shorter than we can. I have
seen a lot of Rams on the road with front bumper damage indicating they could
not stop in time.

 

Bendix pads are the way to go, they're a little bit more but they are well worth it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...677+4294922533


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku
You'll need a hardware kit also with your new shoes.



http://stores.channeladvisor.com/bra...nt%20pkg%20039? Performance brakes and rotors package deal I got these on my S10 and LOVE THEM http://www.cardomain.com/id/shnormo05 if you wanna check it out

 

Thats a misprint, I forgot what year but somewhere around 78 manufacturers were required to use front disks.