Rear End "CLUNK"!!!!!!!
ok...got a 01 Ram 360 Sport reg cab OFFROAD. start the truck up and put it into drive...clunks REALLY bad. figured it was my U Joints.... well i go up underneath and grab my axle and try to twist it so if there is any play ... but its solid.... my buddy said that since i got 4.10 gears that dodges are just made that way.....i dont think so.... could my U's be bad and still not play when i grab the axle? ANY advice place help!!! wanna nip this in the bud before i put my transgo in... also itll do it when it shifts in and out of gears if i let off the accelorator while driving....another buddy said something about my lash setting in my rear end and it could have somethign to do with it...im a motor guy....i dont do rearends...so im pretty much seein in the dark on this one....thanks for the help
thanks fellas,,, anyone else have any input? please share..more the better,,, if i were to remove my rear pumpkin to inspect my gears... what am i looking for specifically? loose? etc etc... and how can i make any adjustments?
Is it a new clunk or has it been there since you owned the truck? When you check the U-joints, there should be a minimal amount of play in the pinion of the axle, but none in the joints. I'm assuming the truck was in park when you checked it. Was the weight of the vehicle holding the truck from rolling? If so you won't be able to tell what's loose.
The best way to check driveline components is to chock the rear wheels so the truck can't roll. Then put the truck in neutral and crawl under it. Wiggle the driveshaft and see where the play is. If the shaft moves seperate from the pinion yoke (bottom) or slip yoke (top), that u-joint is bad. The pinion should be able to wiggle a little on the axle, but only a very little. There should only be 0.002" of movement at the yoke (this translates to 0.006" or so at the outer edge of the ring gear for you mechanics that might jump on me about this). If it's more than that, there's a possibility of internal problems in the axle. If all that's tight, check your transmission mount. I had one of those go bad that made a HORRIBLE bang when shifting out of drive, or when you hammered on it hard. After that I'd start suspecting that the transfer case chain may have stretched. This is most often the case if you can hear a ratchet sound when you're coasting.
Good luck with it. Hope this info helps.
The best way to check driveline components is to chock the rear wheels so the truck can't roll. Then put the truck in neutral and crawl under it. Wiggle the driveshaft and see where the play is. If the shaft moves seperate from the pinion yoke (bottom) or slip yoke (top), that u-joint is bad. The pinion should be able to wiggle a little on the axle, but only a very little. There should only be 0.002" of movement at the yoke (this translates to 0.006" or so at the outer edge of the ring gear for you mechanics that might jump on me about this). If it's more than that, there's a possibility of internal problems in the axle. If all that's tight, check your transmission mount. I had one of those go bad that made a HORRIBLE bang when shifting out of drive, or when you hammered on it hard. After that I'd start suspecting that the transfer case chain may have stretched. This is most often the case if you can hear a ratchet sound when you're coasting.
Good luck with it. Hope this info helps.
Myn was just recently clunking pulled the cover and the clips that held the possi broke and it was just sitting in the rear end clunking... Lots of money to fix this when it happens hope this isn't your problem
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If there is nothing wrong with the carrier in the rear and you have good back lash on the gears, then it is due to the transmission shifts. sometimes it's a little adjustment needed to the tv cable due to stretch. It could be a grabbing front or rear band. Adjustment could help. It can be because of the front and rear clutch engagement on the sun shell. At any rate, it is all normal, and I have never found any adverse effects although it does sound bad.
A stall converter does away with the park to drive clunk,and rear band band adjustment does away with down shift clunk to first and front does away with upshift clunks on accelerator depress, but the tv adjustment (when correct usually takes care of that also). It still does it on occasion though,even when everything is correct. The best part though,means your clutches and piston seals are in good shape, if they were slipping,it wouldn't clunk.
A stall converter does away with the park to drive clunk,and rear band band adjustment does away with down shift clunk to first and front does away with upshift clunks on accelerator depress, but the tv adjustment (when correct usually takes care of that also). It still does it on occasion though,even when everything is correct. The best part though,means your clutches and piston seals are in good shape, if they were slipping,it wouldn't clunk.



