ok i just took the beast in to get the chamber looked at cause it is really messing my tyre up. the thing is the bloke that looked at it said that there is no way of adjusting the chamber.please tell me this isn't true

 

Are you talking about camber? True, the camber on these trucks is non-adjustable (unless you swap in special ball joints) but don't assume that camber is messing up your tires. I had a set that was wearing BAD on the outside. First thing you think of is that bad camber is tipping the tires out at the top ... not so ... it was excessive toe-in. The outside of the tires were being "rolled under" and scuffing the tread off. Adjusted the toe ... tires are wearing perfectly now.

Excess toe-out will wear the inside edges of the tires, too.

 

LOL yeah i was talking about camber. i'll give that a go then with the wheel alignment thanks for the help

 

a few old posts that may have info of value:
-----
Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide
acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range
is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).
The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer)
tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they
were in this broad range of acceptance.
Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to
caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some
30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics"
training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees
to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates
caster shimmy.
Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First
I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can
see if you had a job well done,
The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual
wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they
are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting
individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between
two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable
in eight different ways.
Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the
lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings
into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME
direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback
condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).
FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a
pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger
value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber
pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even
though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!
If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not
pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the
axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable
values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).
A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative
cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right
hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the
negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling
heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing.
Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.
Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that
does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!

Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs
below are in degrees.


Left Wheel Right Wheel
-------------- ----------------

Caster 3.2 3.5
Cross Caster -.3

Camber -.10 -.10
Cross Camber 0.0

Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will
pull in as the front end lifts up).

Brent
ASE Certified
Gold Certified Chrysler tech"
=================
kpzbee
He is 100% correct & don't let anyone tell you different. The only thing I
will add is that you will likely see the camber closer to 0 degrees on a 4X4.
That's where it's supposed to be. One other thing that most people check is
the rear axle alignment. To much of a thrust angle will also cause a pull
(push) in the front end. if it is out to far, the axle location will need to
be fixed since there are no adjustments. This is the kind of things I was
looking for with Intense's truck
========
92 Dak
I'm an auto tech that specializes in alignments and maybe I can help you out.
If the truck is pulling to the right the most probable causes are, the camber
is out, you have a tire problem or the caster is out. On the 4X4 there is only
one adjustment sleeve on the left side. This sleeve adjusts the toe in and
out. You can't have one side out and have it pull that direction. The caster
and camber are set first then the toe and then the wheel is staightened out
using an adjustment sleeve next to the pitman arm. There is no adjustment for
camber or caster on stock trucks. Moog now offers a caster-camber adjustment
sleeve the moves the stud of the upper ball joint to make corrections. Alot of
the Rams (4X4) have a tire wear problem on the outside edge of the right tire.
This is caused by to much camber and can be corrected by the Moog adjustment
sleeves. This positive caster will also cause the truck to pull to the right.
A vehicle has to be set up so that it offset roadcrown so it drives straight
in the right lane. The caster is always set to have more postive on the left
(usually 1 degree) and camber is set the same on both sides (caster won't wear
tires but camber will). Find out what the specs are and look at the camber
readings, they should be the same for left and right. Check your left tire to
see if it is wearing on the outside edge. If all the numbers seem to make
sense swap the tires from left to right and see if that help. If it pulls to
the left after the swap it's a tire problem, if continues to pull to the right
it's an alignment problem. Remember the old saying "keep it simple, stupid".
Rear axle problems are rare.

 

It would be good if a moderator would change the title of this post to
Camber?
so that searches would find it correctly

 

What eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints? 4x2 adjustments (caster/camber) are accomplished using the upper suspension arm pivot bar. 4x4 doesn't even get that. It's only got lower control arm eccentrics (caster) and drag link/tie rod adjustment sleeves (toe).

 

well have some spare time at work over the next 2 weeks and had a look at the upper suspension arm pivot bar this week and saw that the leftrear bolt was fully inboard (it looked like it wasn't done up and slide there). had a look at the right side and saw that it was fully outboard. now i know that moving the left rear will also effect both my caster and toe in/out but i took it for a drive and found that it drives much smoother turning left after the move. alsofound out today that i cantake it to another area at work where i can have a wheel alignment done (where our trucks get worked on)for nothing, aswell as being tought how to do it myself using the right equipment. all the other places in town aren't able to do the dodge as it is too big for them,they told mei would have to travel 300km (190mi) to get it done. i love my workplace.

 

oh yeah i did move the front bolt as i was thinking of it as i was standing at the front (had a brain fart there). found out about the caster camber adjustment locationfrom the merry christmas download (2-3fig,3)what a great chrissy pressy as i like doing all my own work where i can. though i don't have much choice downunder as the RAM's are still imports and places around here don't know much about them. they look at me funny especially when i tell them it's a V10.